11-18-2022, 01:37 PM
I used rivets from Byler, but I don’t remember the details. I did use 5/16, so I redrilled the existing holes to accommodate the larger diameter. It takes two different lengths because a few of them also align with the vertical spars in the coach structure. Then I put 2X that many between the existing rivets.
You do want to use a drill collar and only penetrate the overlapping skins. One owner put a hole in a hydraulic line when drilling the holes. I went with aluminum ones to preclude the possibility of galvanic corrosion, but that may have been overthinking it. I did mine about five years and 50,000 miles ago, and it is still holding.
If you decide to DIY, go the Harbor Fright and get the heavy duty air powered rivet gun. You will appreciate it.
Oh yeah, one more trick. If you go the “jack it up till the holes align” method, park the coach with sun shining on the side you are riveting. The heat helps the existing adhesive that is holding the skin to the spars loosen and move.
Newell was doing the re rivet for free if you brought the coach to them.
You do want to use a drill collar and only penetrate the overlapping skins. One owner put a hole in a hydraulic line when drilling the holes. I went with aluminum ones to preclude the possibility of galvanic corrosion, but that may have been overthinking it. I did mine about five years and 50,000 miles ago, and it is still holding.
If you decide to DIY, go the Harbor Fright and get the heavy duty air powered rivet gun. You will appreciate it.
Oh yeah, one more trick. If you go the “jack it up till the holes align” method, park the coach with sun shining on the side you are riveting. The heat helps the existing adhesive that is holding the skin to the spars loosen and move.
Newell was doing the re rivet for free if you brought the coach to them.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)