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Newell Coach Skin Rivet Inspection
#41

I used rivets from Byler, but I don’t remember the details. I did use 5/16, so I redrilled the existing holes to accommodate the larger diameter. It takes two different lengths because a few of them also align with the vertical spars in the coach structure. Then I put 2X that many between the existing rivets.

You do want to use a drill collar and only penetrate the overlapping skins. One owner put a hole in a hydraulic line when drilling the holes. I went with aluminum ones to preclude the possibility of galvanic corrosion, but that may have been overthinking it. I did mine about five years and 50,000 miles ago, and it is still holding.

If you decide to DIY, go the Harbor Fright and get the heavy duty air powered rivet gun. You will appreciate it.

Oh yeah, one more trick. If you go the “jack it up till the holes align” method, park the coach with sun shining on the side you are riveting. The heat helps the existing adhesive that is holding the skin to the spars loosen and move.

Newell was doing the re rivet for free if you brought the coach to them.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#42

i jacked mine up till the holes aligned. then i used alum rivets in the original holes, and then 2 stainless rivets in between each original pair of alum rivets. and on the very last old rivet i drilled out, i hit the hydraulic line for the rear drivers side bedroom slide pins.....ughh. the line was flush up against the skin of the coach because the foam pushed it there.

on my coach i did in between the two drivers side slides by jacking up where richard said. i also had an issue between the rear of the drivers side bedroom slide and the rear end cap so i jacked up there as well. that is where i had the problem. the line was ony a few inches from the edge of the slide.

richard was kind when he didnt name me as being the silly one.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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