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Outside Molding glue ot double side tape
#1

        Hello,
Having problem with two molding strips on one side of teh coach ! each end of teh molding just starting to come off and warp up due to sun and heat ! Wanted to get opinion if what would you do before glueing back together to get the shape back in?
I have good clamps on hand , shoudl I just use clamp with out worry trying bto get all straight?
If I did teh glue process or double tape durring the hotest time of day and just camp all well , I would think it should all work?

Thanks for any input you might have.

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
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#2

i would use double sided automotive trim tape.

tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#3

Les,
I had that problem on my '93. I totally removed the pieces and thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces. The old adhesive MUST be totally removed. Auto body shops have a special attachement for their grinder/buffer that mechanically removes the adhesive. Use 3M or comparable top quality trim tape. I think there were rivets on each end that installed from the back-side.

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#4

(01-10-2013, 10:45 PM)HoosierDaddy Wrote:  Les,
I had that problem on my '93. I totally removed the pieces and thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces. The old adhesive MUST be totally removed. Auto body shops have a special attachement for their grinder/buffer that mechanically removes the adhesive. Use 3M or comparable top quality trim tape. I think there were rivets on each end that installed from the back-side.

Thanks,
I did looked again with Tom who did visit us here in Tucson, and my moldings are made out of aluminum & I am thinking take entire section off and re tape it or reglue it dont have rivets on mine, so perhaps might be easier to work with , need to touch tehm with paint , so having them off might be easiest way to work on.

Les

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
Reply
#5

Les:
Newell uses 3M VHS double sided tape. Take the molding off and clean both surfaces real good. I used a 3M abrasive wheel on my air grinder for the prep work.
Thanks,

Steve Magown
Calhoun, LA
2001 Prevost H3 Vantare
formerly Newell #458
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#6

(01-14-2013, 05:13 AM)smagown Wrote:  Les:
Newell uses 3M VHS double sided tape. Take the molding off and clean both surfaces real good. I used a 3M abrasive wheel on my air grinder for the prep work.
Thanks,

Thanks for all the good tips, fortunatlly I found out my molding si made of aluminum ! so removing is out of qestion since is riveted to teh bay doors.
What i did so far is I put two big clamps on each corner and left them over night see if that will bend back , if not i am sure double tape wont hold in place ( two small holding surface ! only about 3/4 " )

I think liquid nails and clamp than screw on the inside of the bay door is the ticket here!

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
Reply
#7

I've tried liquid nails on metal and was disapointed.
It is not hard to drill out the rivets to remove the molding. A common pop-rivet tool can be used to re-install. Less than $50.00 to buy one. If you know somebody who installs siding or gutters they probably have one. It is hard to tell from the pictures but it seems to me that something is distorted and should be straightened ...much easier to do if the molding is removed.
Mine came loose because the door dropped down onto an obstruction. This caused the bottom edge of the molding to be forced away from the door sheet aluminum .
Your solution may work ...A rivet would hold better than a screw which will probably "work' loose over time. That door endures a lot of vibration and flexing that may require a tighter "hold" than a self threading screw would provide.

1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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#8

(01-16-2013, 10:02 PM)HoosierDaddy Wrote:  I've tried liquid nails on metal and was disapointed.
It is not hard to drill out the rivets to remove the molding. A common pop-rivet tool can be used to re-install. Less than $50.00 to buy one. If you know somebody who installs siding or gutters they probably have one. It is hard to tell from the pictures but it seems to me that something is distorted and should be straightened ...much easier to do if the molding is removed.
Mine came loose because the door dropped down onto an obstruction. This caused the bottom edge of the molding to be forced away from the door sheet aluminum .
Your solution may work ...A rivet would hold better than a screw which will probably "work' loose over time. That door endures a lot of vibration and flexing that may require a tighter "hold" than a self threading screw would provide.

That is good to know that you had rivets in your as well.
I will try this first since we are on teh road traveling , nothing to loose since there are about 5-6 rivets left in it!
What I did left the clemps over night but somhow meemory of thsi metal is there so bunced back.
Yes , what happen is I was pulling out out of the side and my wife was on teh other side , just got to close to the wooden post , dam thing bend both of my bays moding out ( just at teh corners ) still dont get it how that happen! welcome to tight fitts!

I have not pulled out teh insulation walls out of teh bays, looks like I can get to rest of teh rivets there! working with the bend having both of the out of bays , way better and you can do good work that way!

i actually noticed that bottom portion of the molding is about good 2,5" of good contact surface , more the better , so I put some glue there and clamped good will keep it for 2 days ! I have done it before and as long as is tight contact for good 48hrs I got very good fit , again , thsi might not work, bu worth it try!

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
Reply
#9

After trying few ideas how to get the two moldings to straight I figured out.
Uesd my mechancial tire jack and two centerblock bricks I happen to have them near the campground.

I put two centerblock under my coach ( right on the edge of the frame ) then, I place the molding in both holes of teh brick, placed jack in the center ( I marked lowest bend spot) than I started to pull the jack up and forced bit more than I wanted too.
Aluminum molding did bend back nice!! as much as I wanted it to bend.
Did both of them same way! later after cleaning both surfaces, I put 2" wide 3 strips of strong 3M automotive tape, using good cmaps for over night .
The two moldings look great now! Now , fun part is, painting! I picked up some newell paint codes and picked some high quality paint.

Next , will paint both sections. Its nice to be able to do few reapirs on your own and save some cash!!

Les & Cheryl Korcala

Fulltime on the road hub base in Montana

Newell 2001 2 slide #582
security system 2 Rhodesians Ridgebacks (Basha & M'Kala)
Nissan Exterra 2007
Co-Motion "Robusta" tandem
Trek "madone" road bikes
Trek 5.8 MTb
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