[pairodice]

The bedroom slide is refusing to retract again.  The front slide room came in just fine.  
The Engine/Chassis batteries have over 13 volts on them and the hydraulic motors are running.  Newell said I may need over 14-volts in order to have enough juice to run the slide in.  
I am trying to find a diagram that shows the motors in the front bay L1 - anyone have one? 
The wires are labeled but I’m not sure which are front and rear.

[pairodice]

Thanks Steve, I meant solenoids...

[Richard]

I have to ask some basic questions just to eliminate any assumptions on my part.

Are you in travel mode?
Is the engine running?

Last time this happened at Tom's, it was cured when the batteries were fully charged. You just depleted the batteries again. It is possible that is the problem now. The batteries may be reading over 13 volts, but it could be what the battery folks call "surface charge" in that the voltage is there but the battery is not charged enough to produce very much current.

Can you have someone monitor the battery voltage when you press the in button?

Do the slide locks retract?

Does the room try to move at all? or is there zero movement?

[pairodice]

Hi Richard,
We were in Travel Mode when testing. The engine was running on high idle and the alternator is working correctly. We also had the generator running but I don’t think it puts out as much amperage as the inverter/charger does (according to Newell) I may be incorrect on that.
I have over 13 volts on all the batteries (13.5 this morning on both bank 1 and 2 according to the Heart remote panel).
I am kinda suspicious of the engine batteries because the external charger would only get them up to around 11.5 volts after charging on 20amp for a while.
I was watching the engine battery voltage from the vmspc while Karen tried to retract the slide.
I am pretty sure the slide locks are not engaged while the slide is out (only in) but will check them again this afternoon after work (plus I get to use my endoscope!)...
The room does not try to move at all that I can tell.
Is there a way to check the voltage back at the hydraulic unit under the bed? I’m not sure if the only motor is at the front of the coach only or if there are other things to check for voltage at the back.
PS: thanks for the owners manual - not sure why I didn’t think to dig it out of my manuals.

[Richard]

The only thing under the bed are two limit switches that tell the unit under the driver when the slide is fully in or fully out. There are no motors under the bed. The vacuum pump for the rear seal is under our bed, so if you hear something running under there, it is probably the vac pump.

One more silly question, and this one will be contradictory on my part. Were the battery banks merged when you tried? I don't think it's good practice to keep them merged, but in this case the fully charged house batteries would boost the questionable chassis batteries.

"I am kinda suspicious of the engine batteries because the external charger would only get them up to around 11.5 volts after charging on 20amp for a while.
I was watching the engine battery voltage from the vmspc while Karen tried to retract the slide." What was the voltage on the VMSPc while the retract button was engaged?

[Richard]

Look at page 7 of this manual. It is the Rosetta stone you are looking for. It will identify the terminal in the control box that should be energized for each step of the process for retracting the room. It is actually easier than that because if you will match terminal number to LED number, the yellow LED will light if that part of the sequence is triggered, and the red LED will light if the relay actually provides voltage to the corresponding solenoid.

[pairodice]

Richard, thanks so much for the HWH Systems Text Book! That is printed and going in with the other manuals. I have called Newell and hopefully someone will call back and help as I have to move the coach by tomorrow to a different spot...
We ARE finally getting a solid 14.2 volts on the engine batteries when the coach is running (13.5 with no engine) but the room still won’t budge so I’m thinking it has something to do with the wiring or slide locks.
I was able to find the rear bedroom lock/unlock retract and extend solenoids. The lock solenoid gets voltage when Karen pushes the retract switch (ignition key on, slideout key and yellow light is on).
It makes sense that since the HWH brain board thinks the slideout is locked that it would not allow the slideout to move. I tried pulling the front upper facia (the pretty/pleather part on the interior of the slide room ceiling that covers all the mechanicals up top inside) and the ceiling sliding part for the fan is in the way... not sure if I can disable that fan slide section to move it out of the way or not (any ideas how to move it?). My endoscope is charging so I’m just waiting on it and will make sure the upper slide locks are retracted (probably should have done that yesterday!).
Newell suggested jumping the bedroom retract solenoid with the unlock solenoid wire (which did have 12-volts but I could not get a decent reading on it with my multi-meter).
I’m going through the computer brain board diagram now :-)

[pairodice]

Anyone know what this valve is for?  It’s part of the HWH Leveling (or slideout) system.  It is currently at the 0 position and not sure it has anything to do with my rear slideout not coming in...
I did use my endoscope to view the slide lock latches and they are disengaged.

[rheavn]

Adrian,
If you back off the pressure in all the rear bedroom solenoids, you & the wife should be able to push the room in.  Then reapply the pressure to the solenoids & it will lock in.  Do you know how to relieve the solenoid pressure?

[pairodice]

THAT valve was the PROBLEM!!! It was at 0 and apparently controls the flow of hydraulic fluid either to the rear slide or to both slides. The slide is now IN and we can move plus I learned WAY more than I wanted to about the HWH slideouts!