I was hoping someone on this forum could help me. I have a leak on the top rear slide lock pin of my living room slide. I have removed the aluminum block that holds the pin. There is a top cap that I removed and found a deteriorated O-ring. I found the correct O-ring locally and re-installed. I was hoping that would fix my problem and to an extent it did, but it looks like it's also leaking from the pin itself.
My hope is that someone here has removed the pin and can help me with directions for removal and any special tools I may need. I know I can send it to HWH for repair but they quoted from $200 to $400 to repair depending on the issue, not to mention I have a trip coming up in about 6 weeks and didn't want to take the chance I would not get it back in time. (Though I've heard I could probably cap off the hydraulic hoses to the pin and be fine.)
Under the top cap, there is a brass nut with a thick washer. I was able to remove that but then wasn't sure where to go from there since there is a slotted cylinder and might need a special tool to remove. I'm assuming it's threaded but not sure.
The HWH part number for the whole lock is RAP 19920. I've attached some photos for reference. They want $600 for a new one and are back ordered for an unknown time...though I'm obviously hoping to fix this one myself. HWH technical support is out weeks so I can't even talk to someone there in a timely manner.
My coach is a 2001 Foretravel U320. I'm posting on the Foretravel forum also but the more brains the better right?
Those threads were found using the search engine. The key to a productive search is to use the operative AND between the terms. For example those threads were found by putting Slide AND Lock AND repair into the search block.
I think you can fix it for about 6 dollars.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
Those threads were found using the search engine. The key to a productive search is to use the operative AND between the terms. For example those threads were found by putting Slide AND Lock AND repair into the search block.
I think you can fix it for about 6 dollars.
Thanks!
So I did find those 2 post before I submitted mine, but unfortunately they don't help in my specific situation. I see the locking pin torn down but it's a different locking pin and don't think it comes apart the same as mine...and if it does, no explanation how to get the pin out.
(This post was last modified: 04-21-2024, 09:26 PM by dlkj07.)
I think you’ll find the pin pushes out through the hole with the large cap. Mine pushed out using my thumb and a brass pin. Latitude28’s post is pretty complete and gives part numbers and suppliers.
Several gurus have rebuilt them. Oddly, I rebuilt just one and two weeks later the other lock failed. Lesson: do both !!
Do not buy the replacement locking pin that Newell sells it is different and without modifications it will present problems. The parts posted in Latitude 28 thread will rebuild the old locking pins, on the second and third photo you will see the new style has a longer body and you must grind down the point on the locking pin in order for it to clear the roof the old style is the third photo.
1999 45' with tag axle, #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
(04-22-2024, 04:18 AM)bestgenman Wrote: I think you’ll find the pin pushes out through the hole with the large cap. Mine pushed out using my thumb and a brass pin. Latitude28’s post is pretty complete and gives part numbers and suppliers.
Several gurus have rebuilt them. Oddly, I rebuilt just one and two weeks later the other lock failed. Lesson: do both !!
First thing I did was try and push the pin out through the top, wouldn't budge. Like I mentioned above, my lock pin is a little different design than Latitude 28's...it appears to be threaded in and need some type of spanner wrench to get out...I think.
I'm also thinking about rebuilding the other top lock, even though it's dry as a bone and is working fine.
So…..just for grins, let’s say that slotted nut is screwed in.
find yourself a screwdriver the full width of the nut. Use a hacksaw, file, dremel cutting wheel, or side grinder to remove enough of the center of the blade to clear the pin.
Might not work, but you’re only out a screwdriver.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home )
(04-22-2024, 10:47 AM)Richard Wrote: So…..just for grins, let’s say that slotted nut is screwed in.
find yourself a screwdriver the full width of the nut. Use a hacksaw, file, dremel cutting wheel, or side grinder to remove enough of the center of the blade to clear the pin.
Might not work, but you’re only out a screwdriver.
I was on the same wave length, was thinking a wide paint scraper or similiar tool...
Take a look at my lock assy in the attached picture. The brass internal pin guide on mine is the same as yours and will not need to be spanner wrenched off. A technical tap with a brass drift pin punch on the pointed end of the pin with the lock in a vise should get you apart. There may be an oring rolled and binding between the brass guide and lock casing. The difference comes into play with the magnet on the end of the, in my case long plastic piece. Yours being shorter does the same function as far as the logic board.
(04-22-2024, 10:57 AM)Latitude 28 Wrote: Take a look at my lock assy in the attached picture. The brass internal pin guide on mine is the same as yours and will not need to be spanner wrenched off. A technical tap with a brass drift pin punch on the pointed end of the pin with the lock in a vise should get you apart. There may be an oring rolled and binding between the brass guide and lock casing. The difference comes into play with the magnet on the end of the, in my case long plastic piece. Yours being shorter does the same function as far as the logic board.
That would be great, I'll try that before chasing down a tool...so you're saying the pin should just slide out normally but i may have an O-ring bound up in there keeping it from coming out easily?
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