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As a suggestion, I would start where the rivets are still present and drill out 2 at a time and replace with new ones of a slightly larger size, to get a gite on things. Make sure you get all the "goop" out that you can for the best possible mating surface. If you have a way to get something beside the coach you can push against that would be great so you can close the gap while popping in new rivets.
Carl Little
1996 Coach 435 Detroit 60
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Start here.
https://bylerrivet.com/
I have repaired similar issues. I think I posted a couple threads on rivet repair.
I will try to remember to look up the rivets I used tomorrow .
agree with Carl… Clean the goop out first.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.
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I use Cherry Rivets (cherrymax) used for aircraft skins, they are great but you'll need to buy a heavy duty rivet gun or a pneumatic unit is best.
1999 45' #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon
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The washer cap rivets work best if you can access the back side. The tool I’m showing is needed . It attaches to a common (harbor freight) air hammer. You need someone on the back side with a heavy steel “buck” to go against the back of the rivet. The last pic is a shaveable blind rivet. They sell a tool to shave them. I just used side cutters and a small grinder followed by sandpaper.
Byler Rivet has good information that you will find helpful.
1993 Newell (316) 45' 8V92,towing an Imperial open trailer or RnR custom built enclosed trailer. FMCA#232958 '67 Airstream Overlander 27' '67GTO,'76TransAm,'52Chevy panel, 2000 Corvette "Lingenfelter"modified, '23 Grand Cherokee.