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https://www.rvonline.com/single-ad.asp?Recnumber=67572
http://www.themotorcoachstore.com/--2007...625-HP-CAT

This appears to be an excellent price on a 2007 quad slide Newell with a 625HP CAT and a ZF-12 speed transmission. 162k miles. Rear bath only. This was the last 2007 built.

   
Hello all,

Turning my attention to the Howard Power Center - Steering stabilizer.

As I bough the coach, the system is inoperable. On the inside, the light is On on the switch but no air on the gauge.
I believe it is shut down from below. I do not see any hydraulic fluid in the sight tube, has a little in the reservoir. Don't hear any air leak around it.

I know that the company is defunct and nobody services them. There must be a reason the system was shut down and no air is coming to it. They are known to leak. If there was an old leak, I do not see it anymore so I would start blind.....

The question.....worth trying to revive it, see what is wrong, spend money finding out it needs parts that are no longer available ?... Or remove it completely from the coach ?

The "dead" cylinder is attached to the steering and I am thinking that it can not be a good thing to have something there that just adds to the effort of steering and wear to it....

I have driven many miles on different coaches with tag. The Newell tracks well with the Howard inoperable. If it were to work, I am sure it would be a good thing and an improvement.

So either fix it or remove it.....Any advice ?

There are approximately 70 ceiling puck lights in my coach and the bezels in mine are brass colored.  Has anyone found a source for the bezels?

My comments are specific to the Dana Kirkstall IFS 84 suspension used from about 96 to 03 or so. 

The interstate handling of my coach had deteriorated resulting in some wandering at highway speeds. I don't like that. I suspected either steering gear box adjustment or toe in. 

I learned a few things in the fix that I thought I would pass on. 

The first is the adjustment of the steering gear sector screw. This adjusts the tightness of the steering gear box. Loose results in sloppy steering, and tight results in an evil beast. Tight means that for every small correction at highway speeds you have to make a correction in the other direction to cancel the first since the steering will not recenter. 

The best way to set the steering box is off the coach. The second best way is to remove the drag link arm and use free play in the pitman arm ( the square one attached to the steering box). You adjust the box until you feel free play in the pitman, then slowly tighten the screw till the free play is gone. It works, I've done it that way on other coaches. But you have to remove the drag link to do this, and that can be difficult. I could not get the drag link off. Of course there is always trial and error, but the changes are so subtle that it's easy to get lost. The worst way to adjust the box is to run the screw in until it feels snug. It will almost always be too tight if you do it that way. 

It occurred to me that there may be a third way of adjusting the box. I did this exercise with @77Newell help. The concept is this: using a dial indicator placed on the pitman arm, turn the steering wheel a set amount from right to left and measure the movement of the pitman arm. Less slop in the box will result in more movement at the arm as the box moves from right to left. 

Here is what we did.  Make a template to go behind the steering wheel, and go about 4 inches either side of the center and make a mark. Put tape and a mark on the top center of the wheel. In the straight ahead position the wheel should be centered between the marks on the template.   Mount the dial indicator base on the coach frame, and the dial indicator on the pitman arm. The front tires should be off the ground to make this easy. Of course, chock the coach for safety. 

Back off on the adjustment screw about a turn. Now have the steering wheel operator turn the steering wheel to the right mark. Set the dial indicator at zero. Turn the wheel to the left mark, and record the movement on the dial indicator. Tighten the screw 1/8 turn and repeat. You will find that with each tightening the movement will increase slightly. UNTIL you have removed the slop, then you will notice that amount of movement at the dial indicator does not increase with an increase in the adjustment screw. Put the adjustment screw at that sweet spot, and back it out about a 1/16 of a turn. 


I really learned something interesting when I started playing around with the toe. I don't have a fancy alignment machine in my drive so I use the old school trammel for checking toe. I won't bore you with my miscues on this one, just the interesting learning. 

I found that the toe I set with the trammel was significantly different in the static condition than in the dynamic condition. Huh? When I set the toe with the coach stationary, the toe would change if I rolled the coach forward. That kind of makes sense in that the toe adjustment can vary as the different forces take up the slop in all the suspension components including tie rod ends. I had set the toe at 3/16 in, but when I checked it after rolling forward, it was about 1/32 toed out. The coach definitely had the wanders at this setting. I spent the afternoon driving up and down the local interstate, stopping at rest areas, and using my trammel bar until I got the toe set at 3/16. The point is this, if you check the toe, ensure that the coach has rolled forward for twenty feet before you call it money. I don't know if this phenomena would occur on an alignment rack or not. 

I had an alignment done two years ago. I did not see the printout, but took the tech's word that the toe was set at 1/8. The coach drove OK and did not wander. I suspect that the change in toe was due to a change I made in the front ride height. I raised the front ride height when I installed the 365 tires to give a little more clearance to the fender skirts when making tight turns. As I look at the front end design it is clear that when you change the ride height on the IFS front end that you will change the toe. There are three tie rods on the IFS. The one in the center is mounted to the frame, it is connected to a right and left tie rod which are connected to the right and left steering knuckles. When I raised the frame relative to the tires, I essentially shortened the tie rod structure. Since the tie rods are behind the tires. I pulled the rear of the tires in and pushed the front of the tires out. Why didn't I notice right away? Cause it was one of the things I did while parked in Florida for two months. I am sure if I had raised the ride height and driven immediately afterwards the light bulb would have come on. 

I hope this helps you if you are OCD about steering like I am.

Hello all,

The coach came without the plastic (hatch) cover that screws into the floor and closes the hole where the dump hose would enter the coach.
Looks like a marine sort of a hatch cover.
Anybody know exactly the manufacturer, or part number, or what to get that fits the Newell ?
Regular covers at RV stores do not work...way smaller.
Thanks.

I just got home with coach 443 and the toilet got pluged up I got it on pluged but it dose not run very much water I looked at the manual no help how do you turn up the water to it

The cruise control has started to cut out momentarily. It seems worse after a couple hours of operation. It feels as though there is an engine "miss" but it doesn't shut off. The "misses" seem to get more frequent. The cruise light will briefly glow brighter when it "misses" Last night there was a few times when the cruise would not set and the light would not come on at all. Then after a while it would set but continue "missing" occasionally.
I called Newell but they were unsure of what brand of cruise control they installed in my coach. I cannot find a wiring diagram or anything for it. I cant even find a fuse for it. I did replace the "set" relay but got no satisfaction. Any ideas would be appreciated!!

Hope somebody has some trick for this to stop....

When I got the coach the Headhunter 110v pump was leaking inside, was not repairable so I got a new pump from Headhunter.

I installed it like the old one and it works ok for the first cycle after the switch is turned on.
After a faucet is turned on, the pump sees pressure drop, it restarts and about 10 sec later it briefly stops and restarts on and on and on again....cycling all the time.
Every time the main pump stops I can see a brief jolt into the 12V Aux pump ( starts for a second then shuts off) and will repeat every time the 110V pump stops and immediately restarts.

Naturally, I think leak in the system. Look everywhere, close each circuit to see if I get to stop...nothing. 

I then shut off the 110v pump and leave on just the Aux 12V pump that is in parallel in the system. This pump runs perfect. Builds up the pressure, stops, open a faucet starts fine, close the faucet, the pump runs a few seconds and shuts off. I wait it out thinking that maybe there is a slow leak and the 110V pump is more sensitive to pressure.....nothing.
The whole system is tight.

I go then and flip the 110V pump back on, starts, runs a few seconds, shuts off....I am happy...then open the outside faucet and the cycle starts again and it never stops....keeps cycling.

Took it out of the system several times, checked everything, primed it to full from the beginning, reprimed, fill both ends, never ran dry .....The only thing I can think of is that the plastic check valve they build into the Intake is not seating and allows the pump to read low tank pressure and makes it restart.....or the brand new pump is defective and the head pressure internal switch is bad....

Any thoughts ? It is driving me crazy.

Regarding 1984 Newell serial # unkown..

I have an "inverter on" switch in the stairwell and in the bedroom, along with a pilot light.  When the genny is off, and no street power is available, when I turn  on the inverter switch, I hear the clunk of a solenoid, pilot light turns on, but have no 120 power in the receptacles. What is the inverter wired up to power as a default from the factory? ( I have not checked to see if it reacts differently with the genny on, or street power plugged in.)

Hello all,

The bed is a bit of an unusual shape and size. What are you guys using for sheets and the rest of the stuff ?