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Strap Wrench Aternative
Forum: Tools
Last Post: Latitude 28
4 hours ago
» Replies: 0
» Views: 7
Weird thing happening wit...
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
Last Post: rundlc
6 hours ago
» Replies: 6
» Views: 108
Detroit series 60, error ...
Forum: Drivetrain
Last Post: rundlc
04-03-2020, 09:35 PM
» Replies: 3
» Views: 162
Silverleaf VMS
Forum: Engine and Transmission Monitoring Systems
Last Post: RegaNewell
04-03-2020, 05:44 PM
» Replies: 29
» Views: 12,864
Firefly Oasis Battery – C...
Forum: Electrical
Last Post: cknuth
04-03-2020, 05:12 PM
» Replies: 34
» Views: 2,056
Very different summer for...
Forum: Travel Logs
Last Post: ccjohnson
04-03-2020, 06:16 AM
» Replies: 9
» Views: 298
changing both electric el...
Forum: Heating Systems
Last Post: encantotom
04-02-2020, 03:44 PM
» Replies: 5
» Views: 132
buzzing seats
Forum: General
Last Post: arcticdude
03-31-2020, 07:08 PM
» Replies: 3
» Views: 168
Basement tank heater- res...
Forum: Heating Systems
Last Post: encantotom
03-30-2020, 10:12 PM
» Replies: 1
» Views: 66
NB 101 south of king city...
Forum: Newell Sightings
Last Post: DK on the road
03-30-2020, 04:13 PM
» Replies: 0
» Views: 105

 
  Strap Wrench Aternative
Posted by: Latitude 28 - 4 hours ago - Forum: Tools - No Replies

Found this strap wrench alternative in a video and thought it was a great idea....never seen it done before.    

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  Weird thing happening with air gauge
Posted by: rundlc - 04-03-2020, 05:29 PM - Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks - Replies (6)

I'm going to try and explain what is going on with my 120 air system. 

So over the course of 5 days or so , my 120 air gauge has registered zero twice but the pump is still running and not building air. Of course I cant open the door except when I release the emergency valve. As soon as  I start the engine the 120 air gauge immediately start working and the pump runs until it hit 122 psi then shuts off like normal.

I have found two medium leaks that are making the pump run every 16 18 minutes, I know I need to fix these but I didn't think it would cause the issue I am seeing Any ideas??

2005

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  changing both electric elements on aquahot
Posted by: encantotom - 04-01-2020, 04:43 PM - Forum: Heating Systems - Replies (5)

i was getting some popping noises when my aquahot was on electric only.  kinda like when an element is going bad on a house hot water heater.  

so i bought two new elements from roger berke.   a 120v and 240v.  

with some guidance from rudy, i did the job.

i bought a 12v transfer pump from harborfreight.  and two sockets for the hot water heater.  one is a 1 1/2" impact socket that i had machined so there was no taper on the socket.  since the element nut is so slim, a regular socket will not catch enough on it.  i also bought a camco rv water heater element socket which is not impact worthy but served a purpose i discuss later.  

first i took the burner completely out.  disconnected the fuel lines at the burner as that was the easiest.  you have to take the 4 wires that plug onto the two thermostats above the burner to pull those 4 wires out of the housing as they are attached to the burner.  take a picture of how they are connected.  

then i drained the coolant out the drain hose under the coach.  used a storage bin and then pumped the coolant out into 4 five gallon buckets.  it drains fast and the pump is really fast.  

then took the covers off the elements.  they are both at the bottom.  one at the front and one at the rear.  the front one i just put my 1/2" impact gun on it and it spun right out after a number of hard impacts.  the back element is the 240v one and on mine was a real pain in the neck.  the plumbing back there makes it so i could hardly get my fat hands in there.  i put the impact socket on it with a short extension and used a breaker bar and was able to get it out with some effort.  

replaced the front 120v element was easy.  the back one was not.  it is much longer and heavier and i had to have some way of holding it level to get the threads to start.  so i used the camco socket and put a couple of washers in it, then a couple of pieces of tshirt cloth and wedged the element in it enough to hold it so i could used the socket for leverage.  with a bunch of tries i finally got it.  

then buttoned it all back up and was done.  have not fired it up yet but sure it will be fine. 

the elements ohmed out fine and didnt look very corroded.  the 120v one more than the 240v one.  

i also used my 20mp boroscope and examined inside the tank.  looked pretty clean.  

tom



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  buzzing seats
Posted by: encantotom - 03-31-2020, 12:10 AM - Forum: General - Replies (3)

i used leatherique to condition and clean the seats in my 99.  i did the driver, passenger and the ekhorn recliner.  

today i used the cleaner after letting the rejuevenator sit for a few days.  

after i wiped down the drivers seat i heard a buzzing.  i put my hand on the seat itself and it was vibrating.  i thought maybe the air seat had sprung a leak but that wasnt it.  i was really puzzled.

i could feel the whole seat vibrating......

i put my hand in the pocket in the back of the seat and pulled out a massage controller.  i had turned it on when i wiped it down.  it has different massage modes and heat.  pretty slick.  so does the passenger seat.   

wish my 02 had these fancy seats.....ha

tom

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  Basement tank heater- reset switch
Posted by: rundlc - 03-30-2020, 09:28 PM - Forum: Heating Systems - Replies (1)

He all I am looking for a reset switch for the tank heater, I have an error code saying the bay is freezing, I have checked for a fuse but cant locate it. My kick panel heater all had to be reset to work.

TIA

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  NB 101 south of king city CA
Posted by: DK on the road - 03-30-2020, 04:13 PM - Forum: Newell Sightings - No Replies

I saw a clean 99-05 Tan/gold going NB on Hwy 101 Saturday (3/28) at about 11:30 am, South of King City in CA. You were towing a white Honda Crv maybe, it happened so fast. I was going SB in my Newell and it was a quick view.

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  1984 replaced rear air bags
Posted by: Guy - 03-29-2020, 05:12 PM - Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels - Replies (4)

The coach is back and I thought I would post a couple of shots of the replaced rear air bags, as it might help others contemplating  replaceing theirs.
The old bags were Firestone 1T15M-0 which are still available under a new number.
New bags are Goodyear  2095 , which were sourced in Las Vegas. I am unable to Google 2095 airbags.

224.00 each with a total of 6 hours labor for r and r of the bags. Labor rate was 115.00 per hour.
I had overnight air charges that I am sure were loaded in to the coast of the air bags. The shop also replaced airlines to the brake canisters. Got to love the cost of 1.45 ft for air lins , and brass fittings at 3.00 each. Since I ended up at a full service industrial shop, I had them replace our rusted out exhaust system. A lot of welding was done, as the muffler was determind to be in excellent shape but all the piping was replaced.

Next season we will replace the front 4 bags....



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  Making a U turn made easy
Posted by: MrE - 03-28-2020, 06:45 PM - Forum: Other Stuff - Replies (1)

I thought U turns were a real pain, until watching this video, and saw how easy they really are.

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  Richard to the Rescue - Brake
Posted by: RussWhite - 03-28-2020, 11:52 AM - Forum: General Repair - Replies (3)

My first day heading back north from Key West is always a tough day.   I am alone and I have found no good stopping place for a 45' coach towing my Jeep until I am just south of Ocala, at Ocala Sun RV Resort.   That is a lot of hours behind the wheel without ever getting up.  I tell you this as it is part of the reason my thinking is dull at the end of that journey.
I was happily putting off at my destination exit and waiting for the light to turn green.   Eventually it did, I straightened myself up and eased down on the accelerator.  RPM's responded but the coach did not move!  Oh great!  "D" was just blinking at me.  No amount of going back and forth between "N" and "D" produced the desired result.  If horns were honking, they were so far behind me I could not hear them.
Finally I looked at my air pressures - Oh no - way low.  I put the coach E brake on and pressed down on the accelerator to run the compressor at a high speed.  I watched the needles go up.  Reduced to idle, canceled E-Brake, and pushed "D" and I was moving.  Within a mile or so I was at the campground and waiting for a golf cart escort to my site.  When that was ready, you guess it, flashing "D" again.  I had sat there with my foot on the brake - mind numb from all the driving, and air was low again.  Went through the whole thinking process and got air and got parked.
I called Richard just to have someone to talk to.   Bless him, he listened and offered any assistance I might need.  What I really needed was fluids, food, and rest.  I told him we would deal with it in the morning when I could think straight.

This is something I have done you might want to consider.  I purchased, some time ago, an expandable rod that mechanics use to hold up the hood of a car whose spring shocks are shot.  I purchased it with the intent of being able to hold the brake pedal down when I was away from the seat.  Drive axle spring brakes have been known to slip on a steep incline.   The rod was to keep that from happening if I had to be outside the coach.

I aired up, chocked the wheels, put the e-brake to off installed the rod and exited the coach. The air leak from the front passenger wheel was awesome.   Well, Houston the problem is identified.

I asked Richard if he thought I could get away with driving if I would handle stopped situations, after stopping, with E-brake and foot of brake pedal.  That sounded pretty stupid as it came out of my mouth and we soon agreed it was just not worth the risk.

He said he wold load up some tools and see me soon.
In the mean time I raised the coach and cribbed it.  The air hose was just hanging down and no longer connected in any way to the brake chamber.

When Richard arrived and crawled back out ( we did not remove the wheel ) he said the brass fitting at the end of the air hose had fractured.  Part was in the brake chamber and part still on the hose.  We hope we could replace the fitting, but it turns out it is part of the hose assembly and not replaceable.  Thinking it was probably a custom assembly we shopped for a fitting to screw onto the few remaining threads on the hose.   But, at that point of the pipe thread fitting it had tapered out enough that another fitting was not going to thread on.  He suggested, and I was okay, with cutting off the failing end and using a hose barb and clamps to get me back on the road and a DOT compliant repair at a later date and a more convenient location.  The Easy Outs were purchased as were the fittings, and on the way to his truck he asks if I would be willing to try a truck parts place where he had been once.  It was going to close shortly, but I said sure and off we went.  The counter guy kind of looked at the brake hose and goes, "Well ours have swivels on both ends"  I have rarely been so happy.  We bought one the correct length .  Now if the Easy Out worked we were home free and better off than new.  Having a swivel on both ends, versus no swivel was a much easier install.  No leaks and I am ready for my next leg of the trip.
Hope you enjoyed reading and maybe this will help someone down the road.
Many thanks to Richard the Ultimate Guru.
Russ

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  Detroit series 60, error code vnt 14
Posted by: rundlc - 03-27-2020, 10:31 PM - Forum: Drivetrain - Replies (3)

So it looks like I have a code indicating a vane failure. After reading the detroit tech manual it seems maybe I have a bad egr actuator that is not 
moving the vane this causing the code.

Anyone dealt with this?
Trying to find the actuator  pn 23531930

Thanks in advance

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