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  Dupree dump valve leaking
Posted by: pestes - 01-07-2018, 07:53 PM - Forum: Plumbing and fixtures - Replies (6)

Kelly noticed a small puddle under the coach after coming back from a hike this morning.

Tracked it to the Dupree curb side dump valve. I can see a slow'ish drip coming from the bottom of the valve body. Of course, it's holding tank, so even a slow drip is not slow enough.

I found some old threads on replacing the gate and seal assembly. But I am concerned -- could that deformed seal cause a leak out the body? I'm thinking that the valve body must be cracked or something. I just dug up these threads and it's dark now, so I have not had a chance to take the valve apart to look closer. I am very much hoping that I do not have to replace the body - there's maybe 1/2" between the valve and the holding tank.

And of course it had to be the curb side dump. At least on the proper dump valve I could just use the gray water bypass to keep from leaking.

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  More repairs
Posted by: Rongripon - 01-07-2018, 06:58 AM - Forum: Usermap - Replies (2)

Well, back at fixit place, Newell. this time for slides, tag axle, air leak, floor in bath, main door and any other thing that pops up. Angry  Tongue

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  Air leak
Posted by: Georgeb - 01-05-2018, 07:44 AM - Forum: Help, I need help ASAP - Replies (4)

good morning from Galveston 

Our coach 385 is a 1995 model
Our first night in town i forgot to turn on AC compressor air was still holding around 70 Lbs
The next morning.....NOW

We have a new air leak. The AC compressor is running every 10/15 min
I have soaped everything (I hope) and found nothing.
The coach is setting level. If I turn off the compressor air drops to 50 lbs and stays there
For hours
Any ideas????

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  Notes on restringing cellular shades
Posted by: pestes - 01-04-2018, 01:25 PM - Forum: Interior Things - No Replies

I've now had the string break on 3 of my 6 cellular shades. Thanks to Forest, et al for their notes on restringing:

I thought I'd add my own notes here in case they help anyone.

For the first two, I've merely bought myself some time and am still using the original string. In all cases, the string broke near the bottom where it goes through the lower rail in the window. One thing I had noticed when dealing with a leaky window in the bedroom is that when Newell installed these, they brought the two ends of the string all the way to each other and connected them with a turnbuckle for tensioning. In reality, the blind only needs to have the string attached firmly to any point past the hole in the lower sill. This means that there's almost the entire width of the window worth of extra string on the original string installation. So as long as the string breaks near the bottom, you can take the blind apart just far enough to find the broken end of the string within the lower bar of the blind. Detach the other end from the bottom of the sill and pull the broken end until you have enough to reattach each end to the bottom of the sill separately. Your still on old string, but it will buy you some time. You can also then do the next trick below to restring with new string.

On my third blind, it broke far enough up that there was not enough string to make it down on both sides. But I was still able to get the broken end back through.

It occurred to me that I really did not want to have to pull the whole thing apart again and try to thread the new line through the cellular. So this morning, I basically sewed the broken end of the string to a new string. I melted the end of each line with a lighter to make sure that the thread did not just pull the braid apart. I doubled up my thread for strength and effectively butt-end sewed the two together. One pass through the original line and two passes through the new line. I tied a single half hitch to prevent it from coming apart and then pulled gently on the opposite string. I had the whole restring done in about 15 minutes. Didn't have to remove the blind from the window, even.

I am now planning to restring all of my blinds proactively this way - clearly they are all at the end of their lifespan and are just waiting until the least opportune time for me for them to fail.

Also note Forest's comments on rotation of the brass sleeve so that you don't have a followup failure:

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  Rariton water heater
Posted by: Little - 01-04-2018, 08:59 AM - Forum: Plumbing and fixtures - Replies (24)

We are the proud owners of coach #125, a 1986 model. Has a new rariton water heater that works great with engine heat but not with electric. I must be missing something in the wiring/switching. Breakers in bedroom are good, switch at drivers panel is on. What am I missing??

Also have a leak in/under toilet. Have removed the toilet for a rebuild. I have searched the forum and have found good info on the toilet. That will be todays project.

Also ant ideas on interior primer and paint?? Pink must go.

We have made a couple of trips with the Newell so far. Awesome driver.

Thanks for now, Mark

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  #680 2004 Triple Slide
Posted by: bryguymi - 01-04-2018, 07:23 AM - Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description) - Replies (7)

This one’s not too far from me. I can go put a set of eyes on it for someone if needed. 

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  Front plenum Aquahot blower wheel
Posted by: pestes - 01-03-2018, 10:54 AM - Forum: Replacement part information - No Replies

The fan blower motor in the front plenum heat exchanger died on me a few weeks back. I had gotten a replacement VDO blower motor, but when trying to transfer the blade wheel, I noticed that the hub in one was already cracked. While trying to extract it from the slightly rusty shaft on the original motor, it just came apart.

The blower fan blade unit was a Cary Products #900. Found a couple places that carry it for maybe $35. Also found that the following appear to be equivalents:
Victory 062-00183 ($24)
Danhard 16-2511 ($24)
Four Seasons 35528 ($11 from Amazon!)

Unfortunately I had some weird shipping madness from Amazon but after several weeks of no front blower in 16 degree night time temps, I can report that the Four Seasons unit is a direct replacement.

Note that I've read that some people have a wheel with a set screw and others with a clamp to hold the wheel on the shaft. This is the clamp variety. The Four Seasons also came with a new clamp.

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  #481 1998 single slide for sale
Posted by: Fulltiming - 01-02-2018, 10:03 AM - Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description) - Replies (2)

One bedroom slide, Detroit Series 60. $99,833




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  Emergency Hacks
Posted by: Richard - 01-02-2018, 07:26 AM - Forum: Anything else - Replies (4)

The thread on mods produced some interesting ideas. 

This one is aimed at useful info that may help a Guru in a jam.

My favorite hacks. 

1. The HWH leveling system loses it's mind, and you need to move on. Open the HWH panel, read the schematic and find the terminal that feeds all four leveling solenoids. Jumper that terminal to one of the 12V + studs in the bay. The travel solenoids will be activated and you can be on your way.  (Bad solder joint on HWH board, happened in a rest stop in Wyoming)

2. You lose an airbag or HCV on the side of the road. As you know the coach is going NOWHERE. Jack up the frame of the coach to lift it off the axles. Put wooden blocks between the suspension and the frame. It will get you off the side of the interstate. Remove airline to HCV and block the end. ( Inner rear dual blew out taking out airbag and HCV. 14 degrees I 40 outside of Knoxville)

3. You rub a hole in an airline or one develops a serious leak in an airline. Cut out a small section and replace with a double ended push on like this  I have had to do this twice for the bedroom air seal airline which runs in the wheel well.  (Left the tag in remove weight mode, coach sat down on tires, oops, operator error)

4. You lose the alternator. Crank the genny and merge the batteries. (hmmmmm, every trip with the double V belt alternator setup)

5. All the batteries are DEAD. Turn both disconnect switches off for house and chassis. Connect the jumper cables from the car to the hot side of the house batteries, and upstream of the negative disconnect switch. You should be able to start the genny now. Then you can turn both disconnect switches back on. The reason for disconnecting the house and chassis batteries, is that both are huge low voltage loads if they are dead. The car battery will not have the oomph to overcome those dead batteries and crank the genny .  (left the headlights on overnight when boondocking for the night)

6. I almost forgot. Blew out the front slide air seal. I used the round foam caulk backer available at any Lowes to force into the crease to stop the wind noise till I could get to Miami to get it fixed.

Can't wait to hear other ideas that you have used in emergency situations. I have used all of the above in my travels.

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  #242 1990 For Sale
Posted by: Fulltiming - 01-01-2018, 03:57 PM - Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description) - No Replies

Detroit 8V92, 42' $64,995

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