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LegacyCoach.com has #578, a dual slide, bath and a half with the Bode Air Entry Door listed again.  Last listed about almost a year ago. 

http://www.legacycoachinc.com/Site/2001_Newell.html

http://www.rvonline.com/single-ad.asp?Recnumber=66476

Gang,

This post is to describe a problem that I ran into with the coach, the thought process I went through and finally the solution that I believe will fix the issue.

Issue:  The coach (for the past few months) sometimes would not want to crank when I turned the key.  It would turn over but did not "sound right" on the first key turn.  I would turn the key off and then try again.  It always cranked on the second key turn.  When I was at Newell, it did it again but on the second key turn the electrical went completely dead.  (No dash lights at all).  Even when I merged the batteries, it only cranked sluggishly.  After a few seconds the engine started.

Thought process:  Once the coach was cranked and warmed up it did not seem to still have a problem.  Newell rechecked the engine batteries and they showed as being on the low side of "Good".  They said that the problem was probably related to cold weather.

After I left Newell, I stopped and tried to start the coach the next morning.  (After it had cooled down).  Problem was back and the engine only cranked with the engine batteries and house batteries merged.  The engine once again struggled to get cranked.

I talked to @"Richard"  and he suggested that I test the batteries by monitoring the voltage on the batteries when I turned on the headlights.  The test was inconclusive because the voltage only dropped .2V when I turned on my headlights.

He also suggested that I clean the battery terminals.  I turned off the power switches and cleaned up all the connections.  I also sprayed some Deoxit on the connections prior to reassembly.  After I did that, the engine was back to normal and was easy to crank.  

(This might be the end of the story except for Richard sending me a message saying to Check the Ground.)  I did that and was surprised to see that the ground was extremely corroded.  See picture.   There was also indications of melted wires.

I turned off the power switches and attempted to unbolt the grounds at the back of the engine.  (Lower right attached to the frame rail).  One of the bolts just sheered off!  It was clear upon inspection that the bolt had welded to the post due to arcing / corrosion.  Oops!

       

On my coach there were two ground pins welded to the frame rail.  Both pins were needed due to the number and thickness of the ground cables.   With one of the ground pins sheered off, all of the ground cables would not fit on the remaining pin.  I called @"rheavn"  and asked for his thoughts.  He not only gave good suggestions, he also fabricated a "bus bar" and brought it to me and helped me install it.  See pictures.

Solution:  The solution was to fabricate a bus bar and create two posts for all the needed ground cables.  Once the cables were installed and the coach power switches turned back on, we looked for any sort of arcing or other problems.  None were found.  The coach started with just a bump on the starter.

       
Future:  I might re-fab the bus bar out of copper and will probably bolt it to a frame vertical to avoid drilling into the frame rail.  

Moral:  When you have an electrical problem, the first thing to check is the ground. Also, as part of your regular maintenance, you should double check your main ground at the back of the engine.  Check the condition of the ground cables as well.  

I am now very happy!  Thank you gurus!

Cheers,
bill

2009, quad slide, C-15 625 HP engine, ZF transmission, 35,000 miles, stored indoors.  $625,000

Listed in the Classified Section of FMCA Magazine, February 2016.

Call 915-581-9403 for information.

Quad slide, 2006 with wrapped matching stacker trailer.  Mid entry. CAT C-15 625 HP.  $490,000 including trailer.  Trailer available for $30,000 separately.

 https://www.facebook.com/2006Newellandtrailer

Also listed in the February 2016 issue of Family Motor Coach Association magazine Classified Ads

Anybody replaced / re-cored their generator radiator?
I dropped mine at the shop last week because it had a little leak where the tank attaches to the core.
I asked Newell about a new radiator and they didn't have a source for one (Kohler 20KW).

Hello everyone. I just joined today after lurking here a few days. I'm in the process of researching my first MotorHome. I've been a fifth wheel guy for about 20 years but now that we are spending 8 months or more on the road I'm thinking a Motorhome may be a better choice. 

We first began looking at 2006-2008 Monacos based on feedback from several folks I met in CGs. Then we researched new or nearly new Integras or Newmars. Really like the Integra but after reading about Newells I thought it may be an option. Now I'm considering a used Newell. We want a rear bedroom and 1.5 baths. 

I found one at Motorhomes of Texas in Nacogoches. I don't know it's number but It's a 2004 with 89K miles and has 2300 hours on the Ginny. At this point I've only seen the pics on line. They have it listed at 279,500. The only thing I really know about Newells is they are very well made and most people think they are on the same tier as Prevost. The new ones are out of my price range so I'm looking for one gently loved. Which brings me to a few questions please. 

1. Does the 2004 above sound like a fair starting price if it's in good condition? New coaches are normally bought at 25%-30% off. Should I expect that on a used coach from a Dealer?
2. On a 12 year old coach other than tires what should I be most concerned about?
3. The 2004 above has a Detroit 60S 500 HP with 89k. How difficult is it to find someone to work on them in smaller cities and where do you take them for repairs other than Miami?
4. Here is the Big Question: I'm not very mechanical inclined, I can change the fluids in my Harley but I would never go in the engine. So after reading here and other places I'm concerned about buying a 10 year old coach of any brand. How big a deal might this be. 
5. So we find ourselves trying to decide between a used Newell or maybe a new Entegra which comes with a 2 year warranty. I'm aware only I can make that decision but I would appreciate hearing from you folks because I expect many of you have been in the same place. 

Thanks all!

Hi all, Mike here from NC. I just joined your forum in an effort to learn about Newells. I'll be posting a few questions as I am looking at a used Newell for my first motor home. Looks like a great bunch of folks here from what I've read so far.

We have spent the winter (up to February so far) in Alabama and have not had too many problems.  The AquaHot system is working admirably and after I get it serviced it will probably work even better.
We have also noticed a few leaks here and there from the lights in the bedroom and galley.  Newell said they are probably from condensation inside the skin of the coach when it is warm inside out COLD outside... Makes sense but has anyone else seen this?

I have just talked to M&G Engineering about installing an air brake system from the Newell to my tow.  I have been using Brake Buddy for years and it is on its last leg.  It takes for ever to pump up and is a pain to connect.  My question is for those with an air brake system of this type, how do you like it?  I know there are other system out there other than M & G and I am planning on using them because they are in Athens, TX which is about two hours from where I live, plus my brother in law has had their system for several years with no problem.  The total price is $1203.89, which is not much more than a new Brake Buddy.  They are on the web if anyone would like to look.

One of our 1991 mirrors had frozen set screws. If Kroil won't loosen it, don't twist so hard as to break an allen wrench off in the set screw!
Just simply drill the set screw out with a 1/4" bit, and then drill the hole with a 5/16" bit and retap the hole with a 3/8 x 16NC tap. Then remember to use
anti-seize on the new set screws. Ramco still sells the mirror bushings, but have upgraded them to aluminum from plastic.

On a newer coach, I'd suggest spraying with a penetrate, then remove and coat set screws with anti-seize before they become too corroded to
be adjusted.

Danny
1991 # 277