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120v air compressor running frequency.
#11

Are they not rebuildable by a hydraulic shop?

--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
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#12

Simon,
That's a good idea if you have a reliable/friendly hydraulic repair person (at least in my experience, that's the requirement).

Although it's pneumatic, a hydraulic shop should have no problem replacing the seals. However, one hour of labor (without parts) will probably get you close to a new replacement part (assuming he goes with aftermarket or electrical actuator), considering the relatively small size of the ram.
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#13

I still have a good size leak somewhere in the system as the compressor still comes on about every 25 minutes even after capping of the supply to the pneumatic switch for open and closing, as for the ram I have a old forklift that I can remove the unit easy and if it is a NLA part or can't be rebuilt then it will have to be retrofitted. I like the idea of a on off valve!

I might purchase a ultrasonic leak detector as my hearing is shot from the flight deck in the early 70s soap and water in a squirt bottle and my wife have been my tools so far.

1999 45'  #504 "Magnolia"
Gravette, Arkansas
1996 40 XL Prevost Marathon 
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#14

@Jack Houpe - I don't think I've read an "average" time without the compressors running, but from a few posts I've run across, 25 minutes doesn't seem to be that bad.

In the original videos I linked, I included one from Steve Vance where he covers the Amprobe which is expensive; however, there are plenty of less expensive alternatives:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eSohberHHQ
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#15

Jack,

Two ideas that will help. One, the kid’s bubble solution from Dollar General or any other source works better than the dish soap solution for finding leaks. It blows bigger and longer lasting bubbles. Two, for micro leaks, using a sponge to paint the joint with a soap foam is very effective.

Newell’s unofficial standard is 45 minutes between pump cycles. Many of the gurus have achieved hours between cycles.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#16

Cal-Blue Plus is what I use as well as the Amprobe ULD-420 Ultrasonic Leak Detector.  There are electronics I don't want to spray so the ultrasonic detector is handy then as well as in spots you cannot see.

I get tired of compressor noise.  I go around 2 hours now and that is too often for me, I'll keep improving that number.  I'm using DOT compression fittings mostly, FleetPride has decent prices and is local.  I'm using Street Ell's so I can avoid swivel fittings where a 45° or 90° is required.  the 5/16" fittings work well with Bode door 8mm tubing and the 12mm X 1.5 to 8mm tubing fittings are replaced with an adapter to 1/8" NPT.  The Bode door valve is now NPT also.  There were so many leaks between the air brake and trailer brake switches (valves) I disconnected the trailer brake switch (valve).  If ever needed It can be reconnected easily.  The list goes on & on.

Jim
2014 Newell Coach 1482 Mid Entry 45'8" Valid Slides and Valid Levelling
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#17

(10-13-2022, 04:59 AM)SouthernDevGirl Wrote:  @Jack Houpe - I don't think I've read an "average" time without the compressors running, but from a few posts I've run across, 25 minutes doesn't seem to be that bad.

In the original videos I linked, I included one from Steve Vance where he covers the Amprobe which is expensive; however, there are plenty of less expensive alternatives:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eSohberHHQ

Thank you for referring my Amprobe video.  The one you linked, is actually the “short version”, here is the prior one that is a bit more detailed:
https://youtu.be/_Z15V0CGS1Q

I know it’s one of those stupidly expensive tools, but I gotta tell ya, it’s ridiculously valuable to find an air leak..and here’s why!  It’s so sensitive and precise that you can merely POINT IT at a compartment and it’ll tell you if there’s an air leak in there..yes, ya gotta open the door though. LOL

Yes, bubbles work well WHEN you can access each fitting…one at a time.  You’ve also gotta deal with the mess/water.  Definitely the cheapest way to go.  However, for speed, accuracy, blind/tight locations, and mess-free use, the Amprobe can’t be beat.

Geesh, you’d think I was a salesman for Amprobe…right?  But nope.  ;-)

Steve & Janice Vance
2015 Newell #1524
Glendora, CA
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#18

@Richard - Thank you for the unofficial statement of 45 minutes between pump cycles; I had been unsuccessful in finding this.

@Hypoxia - Two hours, that's amazing!  Question for you - do you ever apply PTFE tape around the olives on the compression fittings?  

Not the threads, I'm referring solely to the olive (and typically it's best to do this as a two-stage process; tighten, remove once olive is fixed to pipe, then PTFE, then re-apply/tighten).  I only mention this because many people are under the false impression that PTFE shouldn't be used with compression fittings; however, that's intended for threads; it does have value around the olive when applied correctly.

@CaptainGizmo - Thank you for the video and for the additional detail.  It's a great video and very valuable, IMHO.
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#19

When we lived in our newell for 6 months I did this. And we used the bode air door alot

This was in 2019. Just my data

On july 23, it was 1870.3 hours

on april 7 it was 1798.8 hours

so has run 71.5 hours

107 days and runs for about 5 minutes each time so 71.5x60/5= 858 times

858/107= 8 times a day

so every 3 hours

My compressor seems to run longer than some of yours

Tom

2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

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#20

(10-14-2022, 11:07 PM)encantotom Wrote:  My compressor seems to run longer than some of yours

Tom, that's a great analysis, thank you.

Regarding the longer-running compressor, you remind me of a good point.

The cutoff relay could also be set to a higher PSI (and/or, less ideal, the start relay could be set (every so slightly) lower) yielding longer run-times for people that have already removed every possible leak and would prefer a longer delay between cycles.
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