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bottom of slide sticking out after sitting
#21
mine crept out again last year and it was another extend solenoid. after replacing it, it stayed steady.

they are quite pricey. easy to change though. just takes a few minutes.

newell will tell you to change them in pairs....the extend and retract. but in talking to a hwh tech, he said they do that just to make sure there are no problems. i only changed the extend solenoid.

i have a special tool like a spanner that fits in the two holes in the back of the solenoid that makes taking it out easier and without removing any others.

there are two different kinds. you should have the same as me. ones of smaller diameter. the new ones will not have a pressure release nut on the back, but will have a white plastic lever. much easier.

just follow the instructions that come with the solenoid from hwh (i bought it directly from them) and you will be good

the problem with slide creep is causing problems with the slide seal. if it is inflated when it creeps, it can easily roll it out and take it out of the retaining slot.

that is why i had to change my front slide seal.

just a reminder that i have the very nice slide cart so if anyone is in the phoenix area and needs a slide seal changed we can do it at my place if you are willing to help. no charge, just fun. you just have to buy the seal. and i have to be home....ha

tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

#22
Just out of curiosity, are the inflatable slide seals on the newer Valid slides any different than on the HWH slides?
Life is what you make it.
#23
I have been having the same problem with my front slide, the rear bottom creeping out about 1/2" after sitting for a week or so and I will look into what Tom did to correct his issue. But I have also been having a problem with the rear bedroom slide, coming in a little to far at the top of the front while being flush at the rear. This has been causing the exterior skin to to pull loose creating a small gap about 1/8" half way along the roof of the slide. I have had it resealed three times but it still keeps happening. Today when I went to bring the bedroom slide in it seamed to be having difficulty, as if it were stuck. After trying a couple of times if finally started coming in but again as if something was stopping it so I went outside and could not see anything in the way. To get it to come in, I had to extend it a little first then retract it. After a few cycles it finally came in and at the last couple of inches it acted as if it broke loose of what was holding it back. I went back outside and could see where it looked like the bottom of the slide was rubbing against the top of the slide out opening at the center of the slide, peeling off a little paint. Any advice? Should I apply some type of lubricant to the bottom of the slide?

Thanks
Dario and Andrea Perini
#581  2001 45'8"


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#24
Dario,

Have you had the rivet inspection performed? On some coaches, that piece of aluminum that you are pointing to is a contiguous part of the lower skin between the slides. It can shift upward like that if the rivets have sheared.

Also, if the slide bearing blocks are worn down, broken, or missing the room will ride low causing what you pictured.

And someone just buffed that coach! Nice and shiny!
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#25
Richard

I was told by Newell that my coach did not need the rivet inspection but will check with them again.
The slide bearing blocks? Are these the flat pieces of metal on the bottom of the slide outs, if so, they look OK to me. How can you tell if they are worn out? 
Should they be lubricated?

Thanks

Dario
#26
Did Newell look at the coach? It is very easy to tell. Look at either of the slide openings in the middle of the coach. Either the vertical rear of the salon or the vertical front of the bedroom is the location. Look carefully at the upper trim piece. The upper skin and the lower skin are riveted together behind the trim piece, and if those rivets have sheared then you can see misalignment at the two locations I described. The tell tale inspection takes 15 seconds.

The slide bearing blocks are the blocks that those stainless rails run upon. They are made of Delrin, a high density self lubricating nylon. The SS rails do not need lubrication. I have not replace the ones in the bedroom so I do not know how to access them. I would think the entire bed assembly may have to be removed. The slide blocks have shims under them to adjust the height of the room in the opening. I had to shim my salon slide to get it square in the opening.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
#27
Richard

I did the inspection as you described and the panels appear to be in alignment. As for shimming the blocks, can this be done from outside the coach when the slide is out, if so what would you use as shims?

Dario
#28
going back to the front slide creep, you need to do something about it before it gets worse. if the slide is in for storage and it creeps out AND you have air in the slide seal, it will roll the slide seal out. the slide pins on the top keep it from going too far, but can still be far enough to roll the seal out. that is what happened to me.

for me, it was just the extend hydraulic solenoid. easy to change, but they are a little pricey. if you change it, dont throw away the old one.

tom
2002 45'8" Newell Coach 608  Series 60 DDEC4/Allison World 6 Speed HD4000MH

#29
I don't think it can be done from outside the coach. Time to call Newell for accurate info.



I used some very thin metal stock, and made my own using one of the old ones as a pattern. I think HWH sells the shims and the bearing blocks.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Subaru Outback Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )


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