[CaptainGizmo]

Base coat on both mirrors. Started getting windy so that's it for the day. No debris in the paint surprisingly. Even so, this should look better than what it was! I'll end up going back to the paint store to get three more mixed cans for the nose. I only have 3 now and feel doubtful it will be enough. Color for the nose is slightly off but not really that noticeable. Again, it will be 1000% nicer looking than what it currently is.

so far...so WOW!!  keep it up, Simon...it's sure to be a WINNER with your talent!

[BusNit]

Thank you Steve! I am now learning that clear needs to be applied 30 min after base. I hope the clear sticks as I do not have enough paint for more coats. Well at least not if I want to wrap this up tomorrow!

[Jack Houpe]

Mirrors look great!

[BusNit]

Base coated the front end and taped off the graphic following the outlines of the original. It was a decal that was cleared over. I sanded the best I could over the minute cracking. Once I decide on a color, I will then lightly sand the front end again as a whole and clear coat it. Learning that base coat needs to be cleared after 30 min for best adhesion and gloss. Of course, to make sure I have enough paint, I will head back to the shop for more before Murphy comes to help out... (The pic makes the mirrors look blotchy but that is reflections from the plastic around the window)

[Richard]

You may want to think about more masking. The overspray mist travels much further than you would guess, and when it dries, it has to be power buffed off. I would take the masking at least 5 ft from any area you are painting.

Before you shoot the clear, wet the area under the coach and 10 ft out from where you are standing. It cuts down on dust.

And when you go back to the auto paint store, get a can of blending spray. It’s aggressive solvent that blends the dry edge of the paint into the already painted area.

You don’t need to learn this the same way I did. I am not poo pooing your approach. I have painted four cars and a lot of my coach all outside, so I appreciate what you are doing.

[BusNit]

I doubt my skill set with aerosol cans will make this look like new. So what I did was end the paint at the cap edge where it meets the aluminum body on top and below the vent doors. I’m ok with it not being an exact match. Having said that, I’m only doing this to buy us a couple of years before this goes to Mexico for a professional color change. I think someone paid about 50 grand for a color change on their coach having it done in this country. I doubt I’d toss that much money into mine and would live with what we have if that was an average quote I’d be getting. I’m not taking your advice as poo! Appreciate your insight. You’re right on the wetting of the floor. That would save a headache. I’ll add more plastic to the body as well.

[360]

I think you can get a simple design done for quite a bit less than 50k. You probably saw that post on FB with the coach that AJ Johnson just got painted in IN for 50k with full graphics.

Nice work you’re doing. Can’t wait to see the finished product.

[BusNit]

Brad, I don't think prices will really come down. I spent almost $800 on supplies to do just the half nose and mirrors. A guy came into the paint shop looking for Canary yellow and was quoted $855 a gallon. That said, I finished up to the best of my willing abilities and now can present a 5 footer. Truly thrilled at the difference this has turned out. The mirrors having peeled clear made the coach feel worn and old as did the faded and peeling front nose. New headlights will bring this beauty back to life. At the end of the day, I had nothing to lose and a decent trial and error education to gain. I learned alot on doing this from the forum and YouTube as well as the paint shop. The graphic ends on the left will line up once I raise the generator door slightly. I masked at the same level as the original decal. The generator door has about a 1/8" sag on the left.

[Richard]

NICE !!!!!

[encantotom]

nice work simon

tom