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Here is a link to a coach i found whilst browsing the web, I know nothing about it but looks like a interesting project for someone!

https://www.copart.com/lot/54625219

cheers
Rob

An acquaintance found this gem in someone's driveway in Dekalb IL (exact location unknown but will update when/if I find out)   I figured since he wasn't able to pull the trigger that someone on this site may be interested. He was able to gain access to the interior only for a short time and stated that it was "pristine" but was not able to take pics.  Owner states that "brakes are shot".  Looks all original with the original Ford 460.

I’m searching for my entry door override handle. I have looked in the basement storages over and over and cannot find it anywhere. Called Newell. The rep told me to check in the passenger side basement storage and try to find a red handle. Not there...
Mine is a 2004 #714. Does any of you fellow Gurus have any ideas? Or, perhaps mine didn’t come with one!

Thx

Gurus,

My Spartan Scientific unloader solenoid started leaking air a while ago.  Instead of fixing it, I simply removed it.  My air compressor starts up just fine, but I know that it would be better to have the unloader valve.

As I remember this part....Newell wants a small fortune for it.  So....has anyone figured out a way to utilize the 120V wires that are from the well switch to wire up an alternative unloader solenoid?

Thanks!

bill

Went up to Michigan to visit in-laws and do some hunting last week and thought I would drop the rig off in Miami on the way to get a couple things taken care of while on the way.  I needed to get the rivet issue addressed and have the other five rear air bags installed.  Normally, I would have installed them myself but I got tangled up with a table saw a couple of months ago and am still dealing with a marginally functioning left thumb.  My lovely better half doesn't like me under the rig in the first place and much less while handicapped, she insisted I hire it done.  Picked it up Tuesday morning and headed to Texas.  We were a couple hundred miles down the road coming out of a small 2 or 3 stoplight town when strange things began to happen in quick succession.  First was the drivers seat dropped an inch or two, I though "strange" but didn't really clue into it being an issue, then the ride started to change a bit.  I looked at the gauges and saw that the brake gauges were down a bit but not to a panic level yet, the supply air however was down even more and dropping slowly.  I look in my mirrors and can see that my mud flaps are beginning to drag in the back, the ride is quickly deteriorating.  I realize that I need to get off the road now, unfortunately as soon as we came out of the town the road turned to a divided 4 lane with absolutely no shoulder, the edge of the asphalt went straight to grass and then to ditch.  I told Dianna to turn on the 120v compressor to try an get as much air going as possible and she immediately starts looking for a rest stop, I know that won't be happening, I'm looking for any wide spot.  Fortunately I spot what looks like an abandoned commercial shop building with a large flat gravel area in front of it.  I shut her down and pull in.  First thing I do is check to see if I settled down on the tires, looks like the right side wore into the insulation in the wheel well about half an inch and the left barely touched it so I'm thankful for not having torn anything up at this point.  I start looking for the problem in the side engine bay, the compressor seems to be putting out pressure so I'm good there then I hear a large leak and start looking for it.  The plastic bowl on the separator mounted to the forward bulkhead of that bay split from top to bottom. Having heeded the advice of gurus here wiser than myself I had equipped my tool kit with a number of air leak repair pieces including a 3/8" union.  Bypassed the separator fired her up and she built pressure beautifully.  Made it back to Crosby with no more issues.

hi all,

not a newell thing but is part of my newell shop.   i have liftmaster jackshaft medium duty commerical openers on my two shop doors.  

they are not MYQ compatible.  i have the myq setup on our cabin and this works just as good.  

our webmaster scott, found this setup for me and i put it in today.  20 bucks shipped from china and works with a separate android app or alexa.  

these doors have separate open, close and stop controls on the manual buttons on the wall.  so i needed a 4 channel controller.  one for open for each door and one for close each door.  

i used an old power supply i had laying around to power it.  it can use various dc voltages and or ac 120v to power it.  the one i used was 12v dc.  i never throw away old transformers....never know when you will need them.   

then you program the app and hook the controller to your wifi, and program alexa and walla..  i used some old thermostat wire to hook it up.  and zip tied it to the power cord.  each channel uses a ground and a control wire.  so 4 wires per opener.  

it works flawlessly.  only this is the doors need to go all the way up or all the way down.  cant stop them part way using the app.  

i have a scissors lift so it is easy to get at stuff up high.  

tom

I have to replace my combination washer dryer.  It is one single front loading unit, not a stack-able.  It shook itself to death.  Any recommendations?

Had a new parking brake valve installed last week to replace one that had a large leak. The new valve often fails to release, acting as if there is not enough air pressure. After a few tries, it will release. At the time I had the valve replaced, the brakes were also adjusted. Wondering if the two changes are related. It might just be my imagination, but it seems as though there is a lot of resistance to finally get the coach rolling after the valve does actuate.

I know that no 2 Newell's are alike but can anyone tell me where to find the Low Brake Air pressure warning buzzer on a 2003? The low level light works but when doing my pre-trip I don't here the audible now.

We are looking for recommendations in Kentucky, Tennessee, Ohio, Indiana, West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina for mechanical and electrical work.  We have been to two shops locally already and both let us down.  So now looking to see if anyone on here has used a shop in these states (seems like most recommendations are in AZ, CA and FL).  Our bus runs and drives but closer is better (assuming equal service provided) currently in Lexington Kentucky.