• SCS 2702 basement air reb...
  Forum: Air Conditioning
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  2 hours ago
  » Replies: 15
  » Views: 386
• Water bay display board
  Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  2 hours ago
  » Replies: 7
  » Views: 71
• Introduction
  Forum: Please introduce yourself
  Last Post: Newfie
  3 hours ago
  » Replies: 0
  » Views: 10
• HWH RAP1940 6 Pack Air So...
  Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
  Last Post: encantotom
  Yesterday, 04:23 PM
  » Replies: 215
  » Views: 328,698
• Lets talk windshields
  Forum: Exterior
  Last Post: rvguy
  Yesterday, 08:23 AM
  » Replies: 9
  » Views: 264
• Compressor
  Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
  Last Post: [email protected]
  Yesterday, 07:03 AM
  » Replies: 6
  » Views: 641
• SCS A/C and air compresso...
  Forum: Parts Swap/Giveaway/Sell
  Last Post: Jonestead
  08-08-2026, 10:59 AM
  » Replies: 2
  » Views: 893
• Buying a 1994 8v92 Newell...
  Forum: Please introduce yourself
  Last Post: Drea5000
  08-08-2026, 08:26 AM
  » Replies: 8
  » Views: 471
• Vintage newell coach
  Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
  Last Post: Kimmy
  08-07-2026, 03:19 AM
  » Replies: 3
  » Views: 213
• HWH Touch Panel Problems
  Forum: Suggestions
  Last Post: Gpgm71
  08-06-2026, 08:28 PM
  » Replies: 3
  » Views: 9,260

• Forum posts:70,398
• Forum threads:8,397
• Members:4,397
• Latest member:Jbice114

as any of you are passing through the phoenix area, please stop and spend a nite or two with us.  we have two full hookups and easy in and out.  

we love to have visitors

tom

1984 Newell Ignition Switch Wiring Questions
We need help in properly wiring a replacement ignition switch on our 1984 Newell Classic. Note:  This is NOT the original dash mounted ignition switch. This one is on the tilt steering column and is typical of a 1980s era GM vehicle (such as Chevy or Cadillac).

Our ignition switch was recently replaced by a mobile mechanic because the power signal to the starter was not disengaging after the RV engine was started. This was the source of the clattering that we recently had in the engine/starter. In addition, he replaced a relay at the very back of the coach.   Before the mechanic left everything worked fine, but shortly afterwards the switch quit working. So, he came back the next day to fix it, but was unable to get it working again in the time he had to spend on it that day. We decided to try to fix it ourselves.

It seems that somehow in wiring the new switch he had blown open the two terminals that he used for the starter, #8 & 9 in the image below (the two silver ones at the bottom). Power was on #8 and the starter wire was on #9. So, we bought a new switch and now need to figure out which terminals all the available wires should be connected to.

We don’t know where the wires should go because:  1) the wires are not in a harness; 2) we don’t know where they were on the original switch that the mechanic took out; and 3) we don’t trust where he connected the wires on the replacement switch he installed. We are being very cautious in hooking up the wires because we don’t want to damage any gauges or parts and create more problems for ourselves. We can start the engine with the remote switch in the back panel area but can’t drive it because the right rear has fallen and is resting on the tire. This happened right after we got the coach back to storage after the mechanic last worked on it.

The ignition switch is a Standard US105 part (bought at O’Reilly’s) that mounts on a tilt wheel steering column (see switch photos below). It has nine (9) terminals and we have seven (7) wires to attach.

       

After playing with the switch and looking at online videos, we’ve figured out what each terminal is typically used for in a car, but still have a couple of questions.

   

These are the 7 wires that were connected to this ignition switch:
1.      Blue – 13.7V
2.      Blue – 13.7V
3.      Blue – 13.7V
4.      Orange with black stripe – 13.7V. This goes to the battery voltage gauge.
5.      Red with black stripe – starter
6.      Orange – dashboard engine gauges plus a few other things
7.      Brown – should be accessories I think, but don’t know which ones. The radio and clock are connected directly to 12V and don’t go through the ignition
 
QUESTIONS:
1.      Power wires: 
-         Why are there 3 blue power wires? Why not just one?
-         Should all 3 blue wires go on the 3 center terminals #2, 4, and 6?
-         Are the blue wires from the house batteries and the orange w/black strip from the engine batteries?
-         Should the orange w/black stripe go with the starter wire on terminals 8 & 9 so the RV will be started with the engine batteries?
 
2.      Orange wire for the gauges - It seems like something somewhere has nearly shorted it to ground since there is only 2.5 ohms between this wire and ground. I disconnected all the orange wires that I could find to all the gauges, dashboard lights and switches and there’s still just 2.5 ohms between the orange wire and ground. Any ideas where to look next or is 2.5 ohms normal and we should just connect it to terminal 5 on the switch?
 
3.      Brown wire - what is it for, why is it grounded, and where should it go on the ignition switch? Normally, I think this is for accessories, but the radio and clock in this RV are connected directly to 12V and don’t go through the ignition switch. Is this wire connected to the levelling system? Our leveling system is not automated. It consists of four switches that move each corner up or down, plus the master on/off switch.

   

4.      Does the orange or brown wire go to the height control valves, the leveling system, or other parts of the air systems? If so, which terminal does it go on?
 
5.      If terminals #8 & 9 (the silver ones) are not used for the starter, are they used for something else?
 
Thanks for any help or insight you can provide.

Laureen & Glenn Parker

About us and our skill levels:  Laureen is a retired electrical engineer with an MSEE. She worked in microelectronics and has done a little bit on wiring houses but not on cars, RVs, etc. She likes to fix things. Glenn is a retired state bureaucrat and has a general knowledge of mechanics and a little electronics. We are willing to do any work that we are physically capable of doing once we understand what needs to be done and why.

We need to get this switch wired and working so that we can move on to figuring out why the right rear of the coach is down and won’t come up. The issues may be connected. One thing at a time…

my 02 has a 60 foot power cord on it.  it uses the glendinning electric cord reel.  

over the years it has gotten all curvy and makes it hard to go in and out of the cord reel.  

it currently has an essex royal L 6/4 soow cord on it 

 i know the official rv cords like the one that glendinning sells are 6381 which is 3 number 6 wires and 1 number 8 for the ground.  bth way they want over 300 dollars for it with a plug on it.  i can get the 6/4 for under 2.50 a foot plus 20 bucks for a plug

but both my 02 and 99 newells have 6/4 soow.  

some soow are UL listed and some are not.   any opinions on that?

how long is the cord on yours?

tom

The levels of smoke on my coach had been increasing for a while. Someone suggested I check the turbo for failed oil seals. The exhaust side showed no signs of oil. I removed the turbo to intake hose and found a lot of oil. 

The original turbo was a ST50, a design that was fairly antiquated when it was released. A rebuild kit is available, I thought an upgrade was the better route. There are a few options and I went with a Borg Warner BHT3B. This is a non-pulse manifold turbo and a direct fit. I only needed to change the oil feed fitting on the turbo.

While the turbo was off I pulled the injector pump and replaced the seals, gaskets and o-rings using an aftermarket rebuild kit and some Cummins seals. The kit worked fine but I would go directly to Cummins next time, the parts are readily available and may be of better quality.  I was careful to not change any of the calibration settings. The pump was in pretty good shape, however the AFC diaphragm had failed and I suspect it prevented the AFC from operating properly.

The last piece of this project was a new muffler. I went with the setup Richard posted and completely agree with his review. The muffler seems very well made, straight through design, and barely if any louder than the old Riker.

Search: Alternate Muffler Replacement

I now have about 600 miles of road testing, and its better than I expected. Once warmed up it produces no smoke, turbo spools faster and much higher, and better fuel rail pressure. The old turbo would slowly produce 8psi under heavy load and maybe 2psi on level ground. The new turbo produces 15psi under heavy load and 6psi on level, and spoils quickly. I am not sure what the change was in fuel pressure but I now run about 60 psi on level ground and up to 145psi (i think it topped about 125psi before) under heavy load.

Currently in Hilton Head Island, Beautiful Coach!
I understand it was sold to a dealer in Tennessee.
I would assume it will be on the market in the near future.

New Member here. Presently in the process of putting a deal together on a 1998 Newell. 
Ive owned a dozen RV's including 2 Prevosts, H3 and XL, currently own and just took deposit today on my 2001 Monaco.
Any advice is welcomed. Im a auto shop owner and do most of the work on my coaches myself.

I think my first question is about the basement A/C's ??? Pros, cons, good, bad ???

Dear Newell Gurus,

We walked this coach many years ago, and it was gorgeous!  The wood veneer was absolutely stunning (and cost $$$).  So it was shocking to see on the attached (short) YouTube link that the same wood had delaminated severely on every curved surface (and maybe others - hard to tell!)

Questions:
Is this repairable, or does it need to be rebuilt from scratch?
What would cause something like this? (And is it the norm over time?)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJCWbPvL5Cw

Do any of you use propane heat while underway? Or just Gen power for elect heat?

I'd rather not end up on the evening news.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbudlWT9_20

Just posted today.  2020 getting washed

Eric

You folks are a wealth of knowledge, so I offer my ignorance up to your wisdom. 

This is a bit off of Coach care, but....

I have just purchased a home that will get sub freezing 3-5 months out of the year at some part of the day. Below 32 for maybe 2 or 3 weeks continuously at times

What do you folks do for winterizing while your gone from your brick and mortar ?

This is my checklist, but I have questions below.

Turn the water supply off
open all faucets while one lower one (outside) is open to back flush / drain
then close all water valves inside and out
turn the water heater to vacation ?? or leave it on lowest setting. This water heater is in a garage.
leave all the home heating off or very low, say 50 deg?

Yes, I know, I should just buy where it warmer. I never got to shovel snow as a kid...so