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i bought a new water hose to go from the external water softener to the park hose bib.  

i like the flexzilla hoses and have alot of them for water and air.  

first glance says      "Lead in Hose"    i thought that was the old days.......nowadays you cant get within 25 feet of any lead without a hazmat suit.......

of course below it says drinking water safe......ha

my entertainment for the day

tom

just a reminder and offer to anyone who wants to do the seals that require a cart to remove the slide with.  i have a really nice slide seal cart that i had made and is at least as good or better than the newell factory cart.  

you just have to come to my place and we can do it inside my shop.  no cost to you other than you have to help and buy seal and anything needed.  

with help from a few gurus and a neighbor we did my front salon seal and it is very doable.  

i live in arizona and would just need some advance notice.  

tom

Hello,
I am working two electrical issues that may or may not be tied together into one circuit.  What fuse supplies current to the black water dump air solenoids (both driver side and passenger side)?  Also, what fuse supplies current to the lower bay lights?  

Thanks
Steve Denton

Laureen and I have been hearing an air leak forward of the rear tires (single axle) on our 1984 Newell Classic and we are losing air rapidly from the supply (house) system. We can hear it from both sides of the coach, maybe a little louder on the passenger side. When we turn the coach off and the (only) compressor quits the supply air gauge on the dash quickly falls from 120 psi to zero. It takes only 15-20 seconds to lose 10 PSI for the first 60 pounds or so on the house side according to the dash gauge. The brake system psi holds fine and the air bags stay up. The coach's air system is simple, using air for brakes, air tanks, air bags, ride height adjustments, leveling and horn. We have front and rear six packs with MAC air valves. Nothing is automated. 

Today we spent some time looking around under the coach by taping a phone camera and a couple of Harbor Freight free lights to a long, narrow strip of wood flooring and taking videos of the underside of the coach. Doing so led to us finally finding our supply (house) air tank or at least one of them (don't know if we have more than one). It is right in front of the rear axle and about the middle of the coach. (The two brake air tanks are in front of the front axle.)

Please take a look at the attached  photo of the bottom of the supply air tank. It looks to me that a petcock or some kind of valve is missing off the square device in the center/bottom of the tank. I think this may be a major source of our air loss from the supply system. I did not actually crawl under the coach to check if air is coming out of that hole/area when the pressure is high but will do that probably Monday (tomorrow). Actually, I will figure out a way to check that without me crawling under there.

Does anyone know if a valve is supposed to be in that area? I would think so for draining water out of the tank from time to time. If so, what kind of valve should I put there? I would like to be able to drain it from the side of the coach by running a line over there.  Thanks for listening and for any advice.

   

Quad slide, 57,000 miles. Located in Seabrook, TX

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2014-Ne...5006781103

Ad includes 200 photos!!

Triple Bunk, quad slide with 15,000 miles. 9 TV's. Next to the last 2020p built. For Sale by owner. Custom dining table. Very attention getting coach.

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2017-Ne...5010002022

After having the old girl sit around mostly for a few years , with the odd short trip its time to head south this winter ? After running the coach and checking things out the other day , I noticed the air pressure did not get much above 80 psi . I found that the relief valve on the factory electric compressor was venting , and the smell of that air would be enough to gag a maggot ! Is there a place that I can add some air brake conditioner to clean this problem up ? It sure seems there is some kind of a science experiment going on in the system someplace ? Thanks for any ideas Don H.

We are replacing the power seat units as they are past the point of repair.  So while we are at it we are replacing the seats with Flexsteel captain chairs.  Where we can’t make a decision is if there is value in replacing the pedestals at the same time.  The base of the existing pedestals have a 9”x13” bolt pattern and most new pedestals are an 8”x8” bolt pattern.  I know it requires drilling new bolt holes.  I just want to do it all at once if I am going to do it.   So if anyone has experience do the new power seat units bolt directly to the old pedestal bolt holes or what are the distance of the new pedestal bolt holes to the power seat unit ?

I can't find any air leaks.  Loosing about a pound a minute when parked. 110volt compressor cuts in at 70 and cuts out at 90. Runs about 5 to 10 mins every 20 mins.  I have ruled out the air bags and the leveling, stays level with the leveling system off.  Only 3 air powered items, the toilet, drivers seat and an interior sliding pocket door.  Soapy watered everything I could find and I do not see or hear any leaks.  

Could a 110v compressor be set up only on the auxiliary side of the air system rather that the entire bus air system?

I picked up this Jun-air compressor model OF332. It has 7 wires coming out of it. I’m thinking some are used for the capacitor. I’m looking for a wire diagram and or manual .
Thx!!