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Kristi took this picture

   

Here's a link to the ad for my #599:  https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/rvs/d...69700.html

Saw this one in Motorhome Finders - 180,000 miles / Reduced to $84,900

VIN: 1n9450x8xt1011410

https://motorhomefinders.com/rvs/1996-newell-coach-45/

We took a three week trip some 3800 miles and developed a fuel leak while we where on the road. 

The fuel sending unit was bad so I have been filling the tank and keeping track of the fuel burn and estimating the generator usage which worked out to be about 10% of fuel burned.  From the looks of the bottom of the tank, at some point ,it looks like the coach "high centered" over something and scraped the sump area. I think the extra weight fuel put some extra stress on the front welded seam of the sump where it attaches to the bottom of the tank causing the leak.

With a full tank we would leak about 2 gallons per day.....tapered off as the tank level came down.  Which I captured while being parked and recycled or gave to the campground owner for his tractors.  The leak is right at the welded seam of the sump and tank. Taking it to our local radiator shop where they will weld the crack and boil/etch the inside before coating it with POR15 fuel tank sealer.  He has done this to many tanks with only one returned due to not curing the sealer long enough before adding fuel to the tank.  He holds the tank 4 days to completely cure the POR.

While it is out will replace the fuel sending unit and low level float switch.

FYI, I expected all kinds of crud and water on the first drain opening.  There was none....not a drop of water....not a speck of dirt....nothing.  The hardest part was getting the fuel level down on the last leg without the gauge or low level light working, all the while we had the gen running along with the Aqua Hot.  Ended up with having to drain 35 gallons into gas cans. 

Speaking of draining....I learnt something.  Next time I will just remove the sump plug, once, and temporally install a ball valve to meter the fuel off with little more control!

[attachment=7057][attachment=7058]

Sorry about the pics being sideways....not sure what happened.  NOTE; Tried the recommended method (http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?ti...8#pid39978) to fix the pictures...it worked!

Steve

Hello Gurus,

We’re getting ready for our first “big” trip in 744. Still have a few minor issues to address but things are holding together however...

The original 2005 era KVH in motion dish has crapped out. Only received SD signals anyways and I have converted all TVs to HD. 

Apparently my new Directv receivers don’t get HD programming while moving so I’m going to go all new with Dish service and a matching in motion antenna (I’ll be selling my Directv receivers if anyone wants a couple of new ones). 

 Any recommendations on a new in motion satellite antenna that can drive two Dish receivers. 

Should be a simple internet research project but Google seems to be comprised of reviews which are disguised as Ads for retailers. 

Any help is appreciated... Kristi will want to watch tv while I drive...

JK

Symptoms;
Engine compressor causing Air dryer to constantly blow off after it hits 120psi. pst,pst,pst,pst. very rapidly.
it builds pressure fine and holds pressure, but once to 120 (+/-) it continually releases until the engine is shut down.

How to diagnose.
On mine, the D2 governor is located behind the air dryer, inboard of the left rear tag wheel. it has a 2 lines 1/4" lines attached.  One line comes from the primary tank, the goes back to the compressor. If you remove the 1/4" line at the compressor at start up, and the chassis has no air built up yet, the line will not have air coming out of it. As the system build pressure and the governor recognizes 120psi, it will start to release air, back into the compressor into the unloading valve. This valve uses air to open the compressors valves so that it, in a sense, free spins or does not build pressure until a pressure drop to 90 ( or what ever your governor is set at) is recognized at the governor. 

Repair
The Unloading valve is on top rear center of my Bendix compressor with 2 small Torx bolts holding it down the cover. Its is qn upper plunger inside of a larger plunger, all with about 4-5 O rings
My unloader valve had a bad O ring and leaking internally therefore it was not moving correctly, therefore, allowing the compressor to run all the time and making (forcing) the air dryer to open its relief/pop off valve to control the pressure.

I went into CAT with my Bendix air compressor part numbers, prepared to get my exact part. I was told, I was better off giving them my engine serial number. For that reason, I do not offer you my part number since it correlates directly to your engine.  About $120 and 1/2 hour and I was back to running normal.

I also watch several good YouTube Video's using the search "unloading valve", how to install, ect.

I'm not an expert, but this is my best understanding. please feel free to add or correct this post.
Hope this helps somebody.

All,
Anybody going to be at Newell the week of 9/9? Getting some service done.

Reese Cantrell
Newell Coach 1242

https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/rvs/d/...50707.html

Newell Coach Corporation has just announced upcoming rallies.

April 20-24, 2020 Newells Go Honky Tonkin' - Nashville, Tennessee

September 28-October 2, 2020 Newells in Beautiful Maine - Boothbay, Maine

Preliminary locations and dates:

Spring 2021 Newell Customer and Employee Appreciation Rally - Miami, OK

Summer 2021 Amazing Montana

Spring 2022 Viva Las Vegas Newell Style! - Las Vegas Motorcoach Resort

Fall 2022 VIP Insider Disney World Rally - Orlando, Florida Fort Wilderness

We are thinking about a future trip
Any recommendations for Yuma area???