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Hello Guros Joe coach 469. I just got a new storage space it has 110 @ 15 amps. The outlets are GFI and when I plug in it trips. So I was told to remove the ground from my adapter and it should work. So I did and set the invertor to 15 amps and it works,I am showing 110 volts on both gauges and about 15 amp draw. The invertor shows Bulk charge so is this safe or will I burn something up? Second question which compressor keeps the bladder full? Thanks in advance Joe
I’ve had the coach for a year now and am still finding things that I didn’t knew they were there or how it worked. After like 7 months of owning the RV I realized the steering column (on my 88) has tilt and telescopic, I loved it. Yes I drove all the way from California to Florida , when I bough it, with the steering wheel pretty much in the upright position.
This next month we are redoing the upholstery on our seats and when I disassembled the driving chair I found a couple of things I didnt’ know what they were used for or didn’t even noticed during this past year.
Headrest with speakers:
Airbags on the lumbar position, they are inflated and you can control each section with three blue buttons on the side of the seat(when you press that button air gets released from each section)
On the previous pictures you can see the “hug” feature (again, remember that this was on an 1988!) also the little compressor and the electric motor to move the upper section of the chair back and forth.
This is the control on the side of the seat. The one on the back controls the little compressor and the three blue buttons are the ones to deflate each segment of the lumbar air bags.
I didn’t know about this features so in case you were wondering about it now you know. Hope it helps someone.
Well, another mystery (to me) with my air suspension. I just replaced the 110v air compressor which over heated due to running too long. I cranked the coach and filled the bags and checked around for air leaks. I found one on the passenger front air bag - a hole about the size if a pea. I ordered two bags from Newell and found a replacement air compressor. I had both front bags replaced and put the new compressor in. Checked everything and couldn't find air leaks anywhere. The pressure holds for about 5 hours before the compressor comes on which is way better than I remember.
So, with everything buttoned up, I cranked the coach, raised the coach to take out the jack stands, leveled off and shut down, expecting everything to be fixed. The next morning I come out and the front of the coach is on the ground. How can this be? The compressor is holding the pressure. The rear bags are holding, the front aren't?
Howdy,
We took a maintenance pit stop last week here in Charlotte to get a failed linear bearing on our #1 slide replaced. While preparing for that work, Newell warned me that there might be a water leak that we should try to track down.
We looked for telltale signs of a leak when the bearing cover was removed and we were replacing the bearing. There were some minor suggestions of something on some of the surrounding plywood, but really nothing stood out. The bearing itself was all rusty.
As a precaution, the tech cleaned and applied sealant along the seams on the roof/top of our slide, both the long one that runs parallel to the coach as well as one or more lateral seams, one of which is in the center of the slide.
Today, while riding out this tropical storm here, I woke up to find water gently dripping in the center of my kitchen via the overhead cabinetry. Feeling along the top of these cabinets, I find that about two cabinets worth of carpeted ceiling there is somewhat damp. Clearly, the slide roof is now leaking.
I unleveled the coach to dump excess water off the slide, but since it is pouring down rain right now, that only did so much. When I brought the slide in (to stop the leaking for the duration of this hurricane), a bunch of the water on the top sluiced off and into the various trim pieces and also off the aft of the slide and into the area where the Silverleaf is.
Now that the slide is in, I can see the very end of the bearing rail and inside two Valid bearings using my endoscope through a crack behind the aft slide trim. Those rails are covered with water, presumably from the sluicing off rather than from the slow leak in the center of the slide, although I can't be sure.
I also discovered a slow leak somewhere in my #3 slide as well, earlier this weekend, so I brought that one in to stop the madness also.
My questions are three:
1) Does it seem strange that the design of these slides/coach is such that in wet conditions there appears to be no way to bring in the slide without putting the slide bearings at risk? It was over $2k to disassemble and replace the damaged bearings last week, not to mention the two weeks beforehand when we couldn't use the slide (stuck in) or the hotel and other costs while we were displaced from living in the coach. My guess is I'm going to get to do that again, given the water I see that has made it in there. There doesn't really appear to be anything designed to redirect the water away from that sensitive area that I can see. There is no way for me to get in there easily and dry it out, either. On this particular slide a large portion of the trim and sidewall has to be disassembled to get access.
2) Does anyone have tips for sealing the seams atop Valid slides? (Or HWH ones, I guess?) The tech used Proflex RV to seal after what he said was a light cleaning with SD20. He said to use a very small amount so that there is no bump or protrusion that could hang up or get gooped onto the slide seal later.
3) Is there something else I should consider doing?
Thanks,
Ben
Like many others, apparently, my Fisher & Paykel drawer washer in #579 is inop. And reportedly unrepairable. I'd really like a working dishwasher, and F&P still makes one this size - a little pricey. Has anyone tried the Vesta dishwasher? It appears to be very close to the same size and about half the cost.
Thanks,
Chuck
09-15-2018, 05:56 PM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
- No Replies
#744 for sale at Newell $349,000
2005 mid-entry, 45 foot, 3 slides, rear bath, C-13 engine w/ 525hp
https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory
Only one picture at the moment...
Is there a good/great replacement for the Howard Power Steering - I loved it when it worked but now it does not work any longer. I did a little research and have found mention of a TRW and Safe-T-Plus with the Henderson trim adjust as a replacement but am not familiar with any except the Safe-T-Plus system (we had one on one our previous and may have one on this coach but not sure)... If there is a way to rebuild the HPS then I would be up for that... Thanks!
09-14-2018, 06:25 PM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
- Replies (13)
I wouldn't mind having this coach and convert the rear lounge into a bedroom.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-Newell-Mot...SwcMhblA7g
I’ve been sitting, waiting on service (found out today that we need to change out the head gasket so we are going to have that done). In the mean time I cleaned up the wet bay yesterday and the aqua-hot bay - they look better than when I bought the coach (it was pretty dirty to start). Next on the list are the battery bays - I ordered POR-15 and it’s sitting at home in Alabama (which doesn’t help me in the least). Ha! just noticed that the overfill tank has been attacked by dirty oily hands! Will fix that this evening when it cools down to 90!
I FINALLY got my 12-volt pressure switch to work (almost) properly this afternoon. I probably didn’t need to replace the unit but I could not get the pump to turn off. A quick call to Tom (Thanks, Tom!) and he recommended calling Square D - I could not believe how quickly they answered the call and then solved the problem! Even to an idiot like myself what he said made sense (after several times!)... Now I need to know where you guys set the start and stop pressures and the regulator settings.
I currently have my regulator (the little yellow knob that adjusts the needle on the guage up and down) to 35psi which seems to be enough to run the doors and flushes the toilet (more on that in a moment). I have the pressure switch turning the pump ON at about 30psi and it seems to go OFF at about 42psi.
How SHOULD I have these adjusted please?
The bigger problem is the toilet - when we flushed the toilet the flap shut and then the air was heard entering the ‘chamber’, then the air kept going. Maybe we don’t have enough air pressure? Or maybe it’s too much?
BTW, this is all being done with the 110-volt pump turned OFF - only the 12-volt pump is ON (and it’s so quiet!)
Thanks! Adrian

