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I have yet to turn on the aqua hot zones and this morning when I woke up the center zone pump was making a weird noise and was running. I verified none of the zones were on but it appears to have possibly burned up. Even with the aqua hot off it continued to pump.. I cut the wire to it and will investigate more this afternoon in a bit
12-04-2017, 10:18 PM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
- Replies (2)
Rear bath, 2 slides on street side, ZF steerable tag, Sub Zero refrigerator with freezer drawers, new wood flooring in salon, mid entry. $229,900
https://www.rvt.com/Newell-45-Double-Sli...8-UX228795
![[Image: 7751648_1.jpg]](https://cdn.rvt.com/photos2/1648/7751648/7751648_1.jpg)
![[Image: 7751648_10.jpg]](https://cdn.rvt.com/photos2/1648/7751648/7751648_10.jpg)
hi all,
i live in arizona in the hot desert. we have not traveled in the newell so we have had to use the heaters. we try to get away from the heat, not go to where it is cold.
but....we are remodeling our cabin in the mountains of northern az at 7000 feet. so we took the coach up there to use while the place is gutted. tonite it will be 17 degrees. i am nice and cozy in here now. it will be here for a few weeks, having brought it up here last week. will be interesting to see how much diesel the aquahot uses. i only have a 20a connection here.
btw, it was a 150 drive from our place to our cabin. all uphill....got 5mpg. ughh
tom
I'm struggling with knowing what air bags I need. I am trying to avoid removing them until I have the replacements in hand. . . .
Does anyone have bag numbers for the front, drive, & tag for a 1987 ?
I would really appreciate any help!
Thanks,
Kyle
We are looking at a 1990 Newell with an 8v92 and a 6 sp (I think) 135k miles. What issues should we be aware of? Has minimal water damage above entry door, crack in wall rear side of dinette. Some other minor things need attention, but nothing major. Also anyone know approx. hitch capacity of the coach? Kind of flying blind on this one. Has a combo diesel/propane water heat but I can't tell if it involves the ebgine coolant or not, but seems to work fine. Could use some help as to what to look for, Thanks in advance, Mark
So I cleaned out my hot water tank and replaced the anode and heating element.
Was nothing on the anode, plenty of stuff on the bottom which I vacuumed out.
Went to take a shower that night and hot water side is barley coming more like a dribble.
The other faucets in the coach are fine .
Are there not tubes sticking in the tank from the top?
wonder where the plug could be and how best to fix it.
Shot compressed air back through the shower fixture with the knob in the hot position, had the hot side of the bath faucet on as well to let out any pressure so as not to blow the tank. Did not work.
Tried some vinegar down the shower hose and let it set overnight but valve was not open so maybe need to have valve open but would have to have no water pressure and it may get into the hot water tank. ????
Any plumbers out there?
As the coach sat for the last 2 years in a building, the previous owner came to it every couple of weeks and started the engine to build air and make sure all is fine. About 4 months ago he noticed that the air was not coming up and upon further investigation they found out that the engine air compressor was not working right. A new engine air compressor was installed along with a new air dryer and D2 governor.
As I drove it home from Monroe LA, I noticed that the air gauges were cycling a lot between 95 and 120 or so but I knew I had 3 leaks upfront- the 60psi safety switch on the parking brake was leaking, the SR-1 relay valve on the other side of the firewall next to the 6 pack was blowing air out of the bottom and 2 of the 1/2" air line elbows on the brake pedal manifold had minor leaks.
Once I got home, I fixed all these fast. I can still hear a leak around the front driver wheel (airbag, connection or brake chamber) and will sort it out shortly.
Today I had to drive it to Duncan RV in Elkhart to have a new driven windshield installed tomorrow.
With all the front air leaks fixed the gauges were staying nice at 100 to 120 psi cycling at idle.
But..once I started driving, both gauges were pegged to 150 psi, then cycling down to 130 not less.....the only time they went down to 100 is when I was at a stop light and had my foot on the brake. Once I started driving again back to 150 psi....I think this is rather high air pressure. Am I wrong ?
Is it possible that the new air compressor and air dryer when installed were not adjusted properly ? Or the wrong D2 governor ?
What should be done ? I have to drive it Thursday to WW Williams in Grand Rapids for the oil service, air bags replacement and height valves replacement but wonder if I have to do something before that......Don't want to blow up an airbag or brake chamber diaphragm and the highway if the air is too high an stays high like this.
Any advice ? Thoughts ?
Thanks
I am curious as to how the forum setup can avoid repeating previous posts each time a new comment is made. Recently there were repeats of six prior post attached to a reply. I guess I am simply lazy trying to avoid reading all of them again and again.
Hi all,
Got the 1997 coach #440 not too long ago. It has only one front slideout.
I have a little experience with these buses by now since I have worked a lot on 551 but ended up having to sell it to sort out some family obligations.
On the 551 with dual slides, the 12v compressor lower pressure circuit was feeding the toilets, doors and both slide seals. The 110V compressor would come on as needed to keep the bus level and also feeds into the 12v air system via a check valve to give air to the rest of the coach. If the 110v compressor is shut off, when the pressure got under 50 psi or lower, the 12v Compressor would come on to keep the low pressure system full but no air would go to airbags or dump valves, generator slide etc.
On this 440, the seal around the slide is fed only from the main supply air or 110V compressor.
I want to change it and add an additional feed of air from the 12v circuit as well so that I don't have to keep the 110V compressor turned on.
I am chasing leaks like everybody. The supply side looses air fast, I can hear a leak behind the driver wheel, will look into the brake chamber and the airbag. Scheduled to change all front airbags, all 3 leveling valves and the check valves on top of the front air tanks. Rebuilt the ARO dump valves, no leaks on the 6 packs. The 110v compressor is new but I don't see a one-way check valve on the air line and I may be leaking backwards through the head. Will sort it out and add a water/air separator with a moisture dump valve.....Surprised it does not have one... early coach I guess.
The seal deflates in an hour after the supply side goes to zero.... so I think the small regulator needs to be looked at closely for leaks and the check valve....hopefully I don't have a hole in the seal itself....
I know that the 110v compressor feeds the airbags but I don't need that because this coach was the FMCA show unit and they put dual Automatic Hydraulic and air leveling systems- I have 4 massive hydraulic jacks....I can lift the bus off the ground and spin the wheels...love it.
When set up, I would level with the jacks and don't care if the airbags go empty since they are not holding up the bus. There is no other need for higher pressure air except the dump valve and for that I can turn the compressor on to make 50 psi and then shut it off.
So....I would appreciate some insight from somebody, anybody that can or has looked at the air feed system for the slideout seals and how the 110V high pressure feed system ties with the 12V compressor circuit and feed proper pressures to all components. I do not remember how the dual air feed was on the 551.
Thank you.
With almost 70% of the members that voted recommending approval (my vote was on the losing side), the Family Motor Coach Association (FMCA) is now going to be accepting owners of all self contained recreational vehicles including 5th wheels and travel trailers. I would assume that now the advertisements and articles will be focused as much or more on towed trailers as motorhomes in the future.
Apparently a name doesn't mean much anymore.
http://www.rvbusiness.com/2017/12/rv-tra...le-owners/

