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Gang,
I have been inspired to find air leaks by the posts on here. I don't usually fret about air leaks and fix them when I have time, however, I have found a problem that needs to be fixed ASAP.
From what I understand the 12V system will supply air to the slide seals, to the air door and to the toilet. This is "backed up" by the 120V system.
In my case, If I turn off the 120V pump but leave on the 12V pump, I eventually lose the air pressure to the front slide seals and to the toilet. The rear slide seals stay inflated.
Does anyone have an idea as to where to look? I suspect that a check valve is blocked somewhere, but I can't imaging how to start to find the problem.
The 12V pump seems to be working properly.
Short Version: The 12V pump does not supply air to the front slide seals.
Cheers,
bill
We have a Heart
Freedom 25 94K1 inverter/(I think it is a charger also) and it seems to keep the batteries charged fine. The problem is that if we lose 110volt power the inverter does not switch to 12volt battery power (with the inverter switch turned on) and the inverter light will go out on the panel.
I would like to have an inverter that would work with a solar panel array on the roof and not sure if this one will work. 2500 watts seems to be enough for us but we have not boondocked a lot (yet) but I would like to be prepared for the Zombie Apocalypse... Any ideas?
Gang,
I have been inspired to look for leaks in my coach by @"rheavn" With a sonic leak detector, I have found a leak in one of the regulators for my Valid slides.
As you can see it looks like a standard air regulator but the base is attached to some sort of block. I have not yet called Newell, but was wondering if anyone had a source for these. From the picture it looks like a SMC NAR2000-N02B-1. According to the SMC website it is Manufacturer Discontinued.
I am not POSITIVE that it is the valve. It could be the gauge which looks pretty rough.
Has anyone experienced a leak in the body of one of these regulators?
Cheers,
bill
On my Allison transmission control panel I have a Button labeled "Mode". Right above the button I have a label "Perf". So my question is....What is the button for and how do I use it? I did a little research, and in general the Mode button changes the software settings in the transmission to choose different shift points. The choice of the software changes are determined by the OEM manufacturer (Newell).
On my most recent trip, I experimented with the button. I could not detect any specific change caused by the Perf button.
Does anyone know what the button actually does?
Cheers,
bill
A couple videos of my new stacker. Trying to post some as we get different features working.
Here is the Trailer valet system in action.
https://www.facebook.com/marc.newman.127...457914941/
Lowering and raising the chassis for loading.
https://www.facebook.com/marc.newman.127...203633566/
Pleas ask any questions and make any comments. As we finish the first one, all opinions help.
Tried to post a video from my Iphone. Says wrong type of file.. Any ideas?
Per RVBusiness.com, Allison Transmission Holding, Inc. saw net income drop in 2015 to $182.5 million a decrease of $46.3 million from the previous year. Allison attributed the drop to decreased demand in the off-highway and defense markets.
Allison is projecting first quarter 2016 net sales to be lower than they were in the first and last quarter of 2015 and "will proactively implement initiatives to closely align costs and programs across our business with actual end market conditions and growth opportunities."
The only sector of Allison that saw growth in the fourth quarter of 2015 from the fourth quarter of 2014 was North America Hybrid-Propulsion Systems for Transit Buses which increased from $17 Million to $23 Million. North America Off-Highway net sales decreased from $36 Million to $11 Million during the same period and Outside North America Off-Highway net sales dropped from $19 Million to $7 Million.
02-10-2016, 06:51 AM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
- Replies (2)
Wide Body, 40', 8V92 Detroit with Allison HT 740 transmission, 12.5KW generator, 42" TV, Gagganeau cooktop with 2 gas and 2 electric burners, large shower/tub, Dometic refrigerator, Series 27 batteries (house and coach), new Zip Dee Awnings, table and chairs (no booth), side aisle bath.
$23,900
https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/rvs/5433606848.html
![[Image: 00a0a_6G87S2ZiHz2_600x450.jpg]](http://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_6G87S2ZiHz2_600x450.jpg)
![[Image: 00e0e_8hTWwvbocif_600x450.jpg]](http://images.craigslist.org/00e0e_8hTWwvbocif_600x450.jpg)
After the circuit breaker for my headlights popped a couple times while using the brights I wanted a better solution than just upping the rating of the breaker. I also wanted to reduce the instrument fluctuations due to the headlights amp draw, I put the brights on my fuel level goes down noticeably.
The headlight in my 93 coach is from an 89 Ford F150 pickup. It uses a 9004 halogen bulb. I found Lifetime LEDs online that claim to be DOT compliant for their 9004 LED conversion. Most LEDs do not mention compliance.
Their LED bulb consumes 22w versus 45w for the halogen on low beam. The LED produces 2000 lumens versus 750 for the halogen on low beam. On high beam it is 30w versus 65w and 2600 lumens versus 1200. So these lights put out a lot more light using about half the power. The one thing they don't do well is get a lot brighter on high beam, but they start out with plenty on low beam.
I only changed the outside two bulbs. I will see what I think as I use them. I don't plan to drive a lot at night, but when I do I'd really like the lights to stay on.
I should also say that the white light from these LEDs makes the old lights next to them look very yellow.

