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allison ht741 wont go int...
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Lets talk windshields
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Vintage newell coach
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Generator slide stuck clo...
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1969 Newell Coach Windshi...
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Newell Meetup at COTA
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1969 Newell Coach Windshi...
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- Latest member:Tburkett
05-06-2013, 10:46 AM
Forum: Televisions, Satellite, Audio Visual Stuff
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hi all,
at my house i put a 55" tv on a wall in our bedroom that does not have a coax connection. i had run a coax over the door frame to it, but it didnt exactly look great.
ron skeen was asking me about wireless hdmi units and he bought one from actiontek.
i went cheaper and bought the monoprice one. it was 170 bucks counting overnite delivery. i ordered it friday afternoon and got it this morning about 930.
i hooked it up and now no coax cables laying around. it works flawlessy and i should have done it before now. will see how it does long term, but for now it is great. here is the link to it
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produc...1&format=2
in my bedroom it is only going about 8 feet, so not very far. it is behind the dresser on one wall and the other dresser with the tv on it and both wireless units are on the floor.
tom
I replaced the dryer and check valve in the small generator in the front passenger compartment. When I did this, I noticed that the generator sat on a rubber vibration dampener, but was NOT bolted thru to the metal plate that supports it. For those with older coaches, is it supposed to be bolted down, I would think so for safety's sake.
I've gradually been repairing air leaks on my 91, making fair progress. The rear stays up fine, but now the coach has a tendency to get low in the front, lower on the left then the right. I'm assuming the down solenoid valve might be leaking, but am also concerned that the front supply air tank drain valve might be sticking. Has anyone replaced a air tank drain valve, and if so did you use a spring type, or a petcock?
Thanks for any advice
John
Ever since I have had the coach 6yrs now, There has been a rattle in the area of the right front tire. I have had it looked at extensively at a place in Mesa AZ about 5 yrs ago and they could not find the problem.
The slightest bump results in a racket from that area.
We even pulled off the shock and went for a ride and it was still there.
All the obvious things have been checked, loose items in the area. It sounds like a bad shock sounds on a car but it is not.
The reason for this thread now is that it sounds like it may be getting worse. Anyone out there experience anything similar? Sounds like a bunch of hammers being used at once when it happens. Will probably have it rechecked here in NH in the fall before we head out.
my driveway barely fits the 02 and bills (my 90 he bought)
bill is coming in a couple of weeks to pick her up so i am getting her all cleaned up for him.
when i was driving her home it sure was nice.....i love the sound of that 2 stroke detroit
tom
Maybe I'm being a bit over cautious, but I've let the magic white smoke out of auto electrical before. I posted a couple of pics of what I think are the spare wire bundles that Newell has running from front to back. Any chance someone can take a look at the two pics in my gallery under electrical wires and see if I have the right bundles?
Thanks
john
We'll be leaving the coach for a month at a campground while we fly home.
I'll be plugged into 50 amp so will leave the aquahot on electric and heaters set on about 50.
What is the best way to leave the suspension? Level then turn off, or leave autolevel on?
I guess it'll be ok with the 110v compressor running while we're gone. My only concern is if I spring a leak while gone then the 110v compressor may run continually.
Should I leave the 12 volt compressor running also for the slides?
Thanks.
I still, remarkably, have the original gas (only) water heater in my coach....it is now 31 years old, and still going strong. This morning I got up and started the coffee percolator on the stove. I usually put hot water in our coffee cups to preheat them, but when I turned on the hot water I only got lukewarm. About once, or twice a month the pilot light will go out and so I just thought that is what happened and went outside to relight it. It would light, but would not stay on once I released the button. About a year ago I had to remove the pilot light "nozzle" as it was clogged, and was able to clear it out, so I though this was the problem again....the pilot light was there, but seemed smaller than normal.
However that was not the problem. After re-installing it the pilot light, while a little bigger, would still not stay lit. Okay.....maybe it's the thermal coupling....fortunately we were about half a block from a Home Depot....took about 10 minutes to install the new one, and it worked!!! Only cost 11 bux....nice when it is a simple fix.
All that being said, I am going to work on getting a new water heater installed after Spearfish....no point in waiting for the inevitable failure.
I'm trying to go thru and read the majority of threads in order to learn, and also not ask the same questions that have been asked before. Problem seems to be, the more I try to learn, the mores questions that keep coming to mind
After settling in our summer spot I went to dump the holding tank which should have had been around 3/4 full as the fresh was around 1/4 full. All I got was a little less than 1/4. I looked at the sight glass in the bay before dumping and it showed about that, less than 1/4. I thought maybe it was clogged so connected the hose and back flushed the sight glass and it still showed the same. The fresh water tank was topped off and both dump valves were closed and capped. When I run water in the black tank I could hear what sounded like an empty tank.
This is a mystery. I don't believe it is clogged because what was in there came out ok.
Anyone ever experience such a thing?
Brad

