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Just got our 84 Newel home today. 1000 miles and I had never even driven a class A before. It was a blast, but as I told Tom on the phone I felt like it wandered a bit. I was constantly figiting to keep in where I wanted. I had new 16 ply Goodyears put on before we left Texas. So wondering guys what I should have checked and what after market things I could do to tighten it as much as possible. Don't get me wrong I loved driving it, but I would never park it if it were tighter. It does need front shocks I was told. Assume I needs to be aligned as well.

hi all,

i have gotten asked several times lately about a source for gas springs for bay doors. the ones i just put on my 2002 i got from steve at

http://www.stampededist.com/struts.html

very inexpensive compared to anywhere else i have found.

they are columbia brand struts.

tom

Looking to invest in a very nice ac-dc amp meter with multi functions.
Any recommendations?

Brad

Thought I would pass this along.
In a local paper there was an article where it was determined that a house fire was caused by a 9 volt battery. The battery was stored in a miscellaneous drawer with other metal items such as paper clips.
The danger as it was pointed out is that the negative and positive are beside each other and easy to short out on any metal object. It is suggested to make sure that the batteries are stored in their original package or wrapped with tape covering the contacts.

Maybe we should have a place dedicated to recalls/safety issues.

Brad

Gang,

I was headed east on I10 through Baton Rouge yesterday and passed a red-ish classic on the interstate. There was plenty of construction, so they might not have seen me...but in case it was you...

Hi!

bill

If you are in the area and need help give these guys a call. Bryan is the service manager and he seems to have a great deal of experience. As a new Newell guy he ven gave us his personal cell to call if we needed help on the way home.

Just pulled into this park on our way home. This park just opened in July, 2012. Everything is very nice. It appears that every site is a pull thru and every site has 30 or 50 amp service and WIFI. When you arrive they check you in right away and lead you to your site. Very nice people. The bathrooms and shower facilities are so nice you needn't hook up. Seriously.

The only thing that was difficult was finding it. The GPS was accurate but you have to look for the RV sign. The park is actually set back ways off the road and is very quiet.

Changed out the broken door handle today. As I mentioned in another post, I tried to open the door and the handle just pulled straight up and flopped back down again. I was locked out of the coach with no unlocked windows. I used my Dremel to cut the rear (left side looking at the door) curved piece off of the handle, then used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull down on the piece I had cut loose inside the door and the door opened. I ordered a new door handle (from a Lincoln Continental or Town Car 1982-1987 front passenger door).

Once you again have assess to the inside of the coach here is the procedure to replace the lock (photos will hopefully help). The first photo is the inside of my door.
   
Using a Phillips head screwdriver (easier with an cordless drill with a screwdriver bit) remove the screws that are in the wooden areas all the way around the trim piece and the two screws next to inside handle. Then remove the inside trim and set it aside. You can now see all the linkages that make the door handles function.
   
You can see the long rod that connects the outside handle to the lock mechanism. When you have access to the inside of the door, you see that foam insulation is EVERYWHERE including covering the outside handle. Chip and pull away the insulation to gain clear access to the outside handle.
   
If you don't get enough of the insulation off, it will make it much more difficult to get the old handle out and the new handle in. The handle is (or used to be) attached to the rod with a bolt and nut. Use a 7/16 ignition wrench if you have one, otherwise an open end 7/16 wrench will do but the thinner ignition wrenches make it much easier. After you remove the rod from the handle (I could have do it last since it had broken off the handle anyway), you will find 2 nuts down at the bottom of the opening that hold the handle on.
   
You will need the same 7/16 wrench to remove the two nuts. You will then have to push from the inside and carefully pry the handle loose from the outside since it has a grey sealant around the edge to keep water out.

Pull the old handle out and install the new handle in reverse order. I used silicone sealant on the new handle because that was what I had available.

Now, the question of why did it break and what broke. My door swells badly and I have pulled on that handle hard for years trying to get the door open. I suspect that helped fatigue the metal. As to what broke: the metal brackets sheared on both sides. In the photo I have circled the break where the bracket was drilled for the bolt that held the handle to the bracket.
   
The other side the bracket sheared at the point where the flange starts.
   
When either side shears, the handle will not operate the latch mechanism. Would lubrication have helped. It doesn't look like it but it would not have hurt either.

Tom,
you and your crew have done a fantastic job here and I love the format. I wondered what happenned to you on NC and now I see. Happy to be a part of it...There does seem to be many more options and things to learn and will help contribute in any way.How do I add some gallery photos all at once ?

My coach was originally built with a Weiser electonic remote deadbolt--keyless entry. It didn't work when I purchased my coach. I wanted to get it working. Weiser locks had been sold to Kwikset since the unit was manufactured. They said the circuit board was bad & a new one was not available. Kwikset no longer manufactures a deadbolt with a remote, they only make one with a touchpad. I found a company, Morning Industries, that manufactured an electronic deadbolt with two remotes--Model #RF-01sn. Home Depot could get one as a special order for $143. I found them on the internet from $85 to $200. I purchased the lock from a company I could return it to if it was not "Newell quality". Once I got the new lock I realized I needed an extension kit as the door was wider than 1 7/8" so the mounting plate screws were too short. I called the company in SoCal who answered & spoke English. For $15 they sent me the extension kit. It arrived in four days. Replacing the old lock with the new one was a breeze. It was R & R. No new holes, nothing to change. The lock runs on four AA batteries so no wires to run. The only thing I had to do was add a flat washer & star lock washer as the mounting screws were too long when I put in the extension kit. From the outside you just see a normal deadbolt & on the inside is the metal electronic box that is smaller & nicer than the original Weiser box. There is an opening handle on the inside that lock or unlocks the lock without using the remote. It works without involving the electronics.

For anyone who would like an electronic deadbolt that operates with a remote this lock will work as long as your door is not thicker than 2 1/4". There are no wires to run or holes to drill so replacing a non electronic deadbolt with this unit is simple. I read a thread where some folks were worried of being locked out, but this lock always works with the keys from the outside or handle on the inside even if the batteries are removed or dead.

I replace the batteries at the start of the season & am able to use the lock all year without replacing the four AA batteries. I have now owned and used this system for a year and a half without a single problem. Last time I checked Wal*Mart.Com had even lowered the price to less than I paid. The lock also comes in a variety of finishes.