• Front Aquahot hose leaks
  Forum: Heating Systems
  Last Post: [email protected]
  1 hour ago
  » Replies: 39
  » Views: 5,637
• Tag Axle Bushing Replacem...
  Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
  Last Post: [email protected]
  5 hours ago
  » Replies: 0
  » Views: 14
• Reverse lights not workin...
  Forum: Electrical
  Last Post: [email protected]
  8 hours ago
  » Replies: 2
  » Views: 48
• New to me 2005 Newell 47 ...
  Forum: Please introduce yourself
  Last Post: hypoxia
  Yesterday, 06:37 AM
  » Replies: 8
  » Views: 189
• Driver steer blow out.
  Forum: Slides
  Last Post: Jesse
  09-30-2026, 01:03 PM
  » Replies: 15
  » Views: 623
• 1244 for sale
  Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
  Last Post: Sea Note
  09-29-2026, 08:21 AM
  » Replies: 0
  » Views: 160
• New design for LED tail l...
  Forum: Exterior
  Last Post: chadsuv
  09-28-2026, 11:06 AM
  » Replies: 24
  » Views: 40,234
• 2027 Little Valley (No) R...
  Forum: Get Togethers
  Last Post: [email protected]
  09-27-2026, 04:58 PM
  » Replies: 8
  » Views: 449
• Coach 567 for sale
  Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
  Last Post: Jack Houpe
  09-26-2026, 04:13 AM
  » Replies: 22
  » Views: 12,337
• #146 for sale soon
  Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
  Last Post: macgyver
  09-25-2026, 10:03 AM
  » Replies: 0
  » Views: 151

• Forum posts:70,742
• Forum threads:8,444
• Members:4,457
• Latest member:cnelson731

I am looking for a voltage regulator for my 12.5 KW gene.
Last time I bought one 4 yrs ago they were $130. and now they are $460.
Just wondering if anyone knows of a place that has them cheaper. Google search shows only one other source at the same price. Talk about inflation. I have aprox 700 hrs on the current regulator.
Problem: measuring 75 volts each leg at generator.
I have been through 3 regulators in the past 6 years wonder why!

Brad

The hitch on my 2002 is much much lower than the one on my 1990. Russ when he was here reminded me I might need to get a Hi-Lo adapter so when we looked at it, not only did i realize i needed one but we saw that my hitch was a 2 1/2" receiver. a very heavy duty hitch that either pulled a stacker or hospitality trailer.

so i picked up a roadmaster 048-10 hi low hitch adapter. it is ONLY for adjusting the height of the tow bar for pulling a toad. not used for a trailer. you are supposed to be within 3 " or so of level. each tow bar has a different spec so you need to check your own.

when i measured the height of my hitch and my tow bar i needed 10" rise.

i got the 10,000lb version because i overdo everything.

the day we were leaving on our month long trip i put it on along with a 2 1/2" to 2" reducer i released the obvious....duh....i have to extend the tow cables and the electrical cable. so, 2 different trips to the hitch store (which thankfully is only a mile and half from my house) i got the right extension cables of sufficient strength. the cable i had to replace with one that was longer. all of this when it was 115 degrees out sitting on the asphalt in front of my house with the car ready to be hooked up. i finished it and we hopped in and left.

the hi-lo hitch not only raised it by 10" but EXTENDED it by about a foot. so everything needed quite a bit of extra length.

the amsuing part was this....i have the M&G braking system on our honda CRV. the 2002 had an air brake coupling so i assumed it was hooked up the same way as my 90. so after getting the hitch all fixed up, i hooked everything up including the air hose for the braking system. all 5 of us were in the newell, i took the parking brake off and started to go forward. but there was some resistance and our daughter ran up waving her hands frantically. she said i was dragging the car. the air hookup kept air on all the time so the brakes were locked up. so i just took the hose off and never worried about it. i will fix it later, but i never noticed any braking issues pulling the car without it.

tom

Gang,

Today I drove from Dallas to an RV park near Galveston, TX. This park is not listed in Big Rigs Best Bets....and I now know why.

The access into the park requires you to make a tight left turn with a ditch on the left and the right. To make matters worse, the stop sign is right up against the road on the right.

When I made the turn, I nearly fell off the road on the front *and* the back. phew. After backing up a little and taking another cut, I was able to make the turn without rumpling up the bottom of the coach (again).

So here is the question....

If I want to make a sharper turn, is there any point in using the tag axle button? My coach does not have the steerable tag and if that helps...maybe putting the tag axel in "More Traction" position may allow me to turn a little tighter.

Can one of you pro-drivers comment with your thoughts?

Cheers,
bill

ps

In April of this Year I had the Jake brake and valves adjusted by Newell. The complete job took 11 hours to complete as I have the rear bath model and a flooring hatch had to be removed. It took 4 hours to remove the hatch, 4 hours to adjust the jake brake and engine valves and 3 hours to reassemble. There was no damage to my coach & they did a great job! I immediately felt an increase in jake brake performance. I am currently on my first interstate trip since the valve adjustment and the mileage has increased almost a full mpg. This is similar results that I experienced with my Country Coach.

When I had the valves adjusted I kept complete notes and pictures. I am currently in an informational "Black Hole". I have no satellite tv--too far north. I have no cellular service--in the 3% of USA that AT&T doesn't cover. Thanks to a neighbor I have limited wifi.

Give me a few days and I'll post the process for gaining access on a rear bath with photos.

Sittin in the "Black Hole" in NH.........................

Bill from the Barthmobile welcoming you to your little corner of the world wide web. Congrats on your start.

Bill & Sonja, former Barth Motor Home owners, suggested I sign up here too.

First off, I don't own a Newell but admire the brand.

I understand that we're in our infancy here and wanted to let you know that I'm available to help you if needed. When I took over at Barthmobile it was a steep learning experience for me. If I can help you get on better footing let me know and I'll see what I can do for you.

To refresh your memory of who I am, read up here.

Here is 1 of my Barth RV's

Gang,

Attached is the manual for video switch that is made by Silverleaf. It is a standalone module that does not require any other Silverleaf equipment. It has 4 video inputs and 4 video outputs and (count them) 12 triggers (six active high and six active low).

So what does this mean? With this gizmo you can run left, right, backup and potentially GPS into a single monitor and control the whole shebang automatically or with switches.

I have the device but am still thinking about what I want to do but in case anyone else is thinking the same thing....

Cheers,
bill

ps. This is what Newell is using in new coaches, but this is far more powerful / flexible than what they are using it for.

I often wondered if shutting down the generator while the basement ACs are running can hurt the compressors in the AC units. This happens when we switch from generator power to shore power in a campground.

I always turn mine off before shutting down the genny in order to allow the compressors' head pressure bleed off.

Is this necessary?

Would it hurt anything to just shut down the generator while the ACs are running? And then when plugging back into shore power they would start up again?

Part of my recruiting strategy for work is I have prospective engineers answer a few questions by email. It lets me look at how they write, how well they convey info, and how they document.

So today, as I reading a explanation of a safety event involving a confined space entry, the candidate writes that they used a "man rated wench". Sorry, but I laughed out loud in my office. I think the fellow meant winch, but on the other hand a man rated wench would be quite handy.

First off I want to thank Tom and Darlene for the hopitality shown my wife and me when we viewed their 1990 Newell. Tom, we have decide to go with a 30ft Lazy Daze.
Now my question: I want to add a Xantrax 458 and am having trouble understanding where it fits in electrically. I have a 4kw genny and ATS. I understand how they work and have repaired an ATS once or twice. I'm confused about the AC input to the 458 and if the 458 output feeds the bus for my existing circuit breakers. Also, If I understand the 458 correctly, it has an internal ATS that detects AC power or lack of and turns the inverter on and off accordingly. Can you help me out?

I assume my 200W of solar charge the battery directly through the solar charge controller.

Thanks,

Tim

I went out to the coach this afternoon to start cutting lumber to convert over from the fluorescent lights to led strip lights and found the door would not open. The door pull would come all the way up but would not release the latch.

I called Newell and they suggested I crawl in through a window. I am security conscience so all of the windows are locked. So Mike Gerring said I would likely have to have one of the windshields removed.

Not liking those answers, I took my Dremel with a metal cut off wheel and cut the arm off of the left side of the handle, reached in with long needle nose pliers, grabbed the part of the arm I cut off, and pulled down HARD. It worked!! The latch released and I was able to get the door open. To insure the door didn't relock while I await shipment of a new door handle, I removed the striker bolt from the door jam.

Newell has a few of these door handles in stock. They are a scant $184.28. They are from a 1982-1987 Lincoln Continental but are typically not listed at Ford/Lincoln dealers as being available. The Ford part number is E25Y5422404A with Alternate Part Number 1ADHE00082 per Chuck Clark at Newell.

I found 1 on Ebay and ordered it. We will see. I hope the door handle was the issue. I was surprised how far down I had to pull to get the door to release. At least now I have access to the inside of the door to replace any broken parts.