05-26-2020, 08:12 AM
The bushings in the tag axle suspension were significantly worn to the point that one of the tires was developing a wear pattern on the inside edge. I took the coach to Josam in Orlando, but they did not have the bushings to replace and the best they could do was sort of align the tag.
The replacement bushings are Ridewell 1110512B000 or Dayton 321-284. It turns out these are pretty common bushings. It is also the same bushing that is in the radius arms of the drive axle suspension.
Being sort of a knucklhead, I thought I would replace the bushings myself. The first challenge is removing the through bolt. It is 1.5 inch in diameter with a 2.25 socket head. The outside one is easy if you have a 1 inch impact wrench. The one on the inside is harder since the driveshaft is in the way. I was able to use a slugging wrench, which is a big wrench that fits the bolt head and is designed to be hit with a sledge hammer. It was a bit hard to swing a sledge under the coach, and I got tired of hammering on it. However, I used a bottle jack on the handle of the wrench and used hydraulics to back the bolt out.
Once the bolt is out, there is an easy way and not so easy way to do this. Of course I did the not so easy way first. The not so easy way is to remove both bolts and allow the tag assembly to drop out of the way. The problem arises with getting proper alignment to jack it back in place after the new bushings are in.
The easy way is to remove the four bolts that hold one of the suspension carriers to the frame and pry it loose. Leaving the other side of the suspension intact allows the side you are working on to slip back into place much easier. Align the bushing, put the BIG bolt in, and then insert the four bolts that hold the carrier to the frame. It took 2 days to replace the first bushing, 1 day to replace the second, 1/2 day to replace the third, and two hours to replace the last one. That is a learning curve steeper than a Covid outbreak.
Once the carrier is out, the challenge is pressing the old bushing out and the new one in. There is a specialty tool made just for this. The base tool is $700, and another $200 of correct size dies is needed. I am just too cheap. I used 3/4 all thread, and different size sockets to make a homemade press. You will notice the new bushing is about 1/4 inch larger in diameter than the hole. Fortunately, the carrier is chamfered on one side to help get it started. It really help to use a wire brush to completely clean inside the carrier hole, and to lube up the new bushing with silicone or vegetable oil. I am showing a picture of the homemade press. What you can’t see in the picture is nuts and washers on the INSIDE of the bushing to keep it from cocking or getting out of alignment while pressing it in. Using the nuts and washers inside as guides makes using the threaded rod press much easier.
I haven’t driven it yet to see if the new bushings make any difference in the drive, but looking at the old ones, I can’t imagine the tag axle alignment wasn’t moving around. All four of the old bushings were completely trashed. After all the suspension design is cantilevered on those bushings and they take the brunt of the force in normal travel and in turns.
Many thanks to Bill Johnson @Bikestuff for the help in getting this done.
The replacement bushings are Ridewell 1110512B000 or Dayton 321-284. It turns out these are pretty common bushings. It is also the same bushing that is in the radius arms of the drive axle suspension.
Being sort of a knucklhead, I thought I would replace the bushings myself. The first challenge is removing the through bolt. It is 1.5 inch in diameter with a 2.25 socket head. The outside one is easy if you have a 1 inch impact wrench. The one on the inside is harder since the driveshaft is in the way. I was able to use a slugging wrench, which is a big wrench that fits the bolt head and is designed to be hit with a sledge hammer. It was a bit hard to swing a sledge under the coach, and I got tired of hammering on it. However, I used a bottle jack on the handle of the wrench and used hydraulics to back the bolt out.
Once the bolt is out, there is an easy way and not so easy way to do this. Of course I did the not so easy way first. The not so easy way is to remove both bolts and allow the tag assembly to drop out of the way. The problem arises with getting proper alignment to jack it back in place after the new bushings are in.
The easy way is to remove the four bolts that hold one of the suspension carriers to the frame and pry it loose. Leaving the other side of the suspension intact allows the side you are working on to slip back into place much easier. Align the bushing, put the BIG bolt in, and then insert the four bolts that hold the carrier to the frame. It took 2 days to replace the first bushing, 1 day to replace the second, 1/2 day to replace the third, and two hours to replace the last one. That is a learning curve steeper than a Covid outbreak.
Once the carrier is out, the challenge is pressing the old bushing out and the new one in. There is a specialty tool made just for this. The base tool is $700, and another $200 of correct size dies is needed. I am just too cheap. I used 3/4 all thread, and different size sockets to make a homemade press. You will notice the new bushing is about 1/4 inch larger in diameter than the hole. Fortunately, the carrier is chamfered on one side to help get it started. It really help to use a wire brush to completely clean inside the carrier hole, and to lube up the new bushing with silicone or vegetable oil. I am showing a picture of the homemade press. What you can’t see in the picture is nuts and washers on the INSIDE of the bushing to keep it from cocking or getting out of alignment while pressing it in. Using the nuts and washers inside as guides makes using the threaded rod press much easier.
I haven’t driven it yet to see if the new bushings make any difference in the drive, but looking at the old ones, I can’t imagine the tag axle alignment wasn’t moving around. All four of the old bushings were completely trashed. After all the suspension design is cantilevered on those bushings and they take the brunt of the force in normal travel and in turns.
Many thanks to Bill Johnson @Bikestuff for the help in getting this done.
Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home
)