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Keep blowing 120V compressor head gaskets
#11

The compressor logic is 90 to 120 on the engine compressor, 70 to 90 on 120v compressor, and 55 to 70 on 12v compressor. That keeps them from overlapping each other. But 90 psi will NOT lift the back of the coach for leveling which is why the HWH system over rides the well pump switch. If a person desired to keep that feature a better way to do it would be to have the HWH box provide power to a second well pump switch set at a higher pressure.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#12

That is close to mine Richard.

The 120v compressor 70 to 90 psi
12v compressor - I don't have one
Engine compressor is 90 - 150 psi, although the 150 isn't constant, sometimes the dump valve opens closer to 130

Doug and Cathy Musick
Coach 370
1994, 45', non-slide
DD60, Allison 741
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#13

I'm actually starting to think my problems could have been operator error. I mean, do I know for fact I've never hit the Air button more than once in a row when leveling? I can't say that I haven't as I didn't realize that might send me into Auto mode. Not that it has to be logical, but it makes sense that at home the night before when parked in Travel mode things were fine and after leveling and thinking I was in purely Manual mode I might have actually been in Auto. Going to play around a bit with it this weekend under different scenarios and see how hit performs. Yesterday after getting the head gasket back in place and making air it cut in and out at the proper levels.

I am getting a weird sound, which is not coming from the compressor itself, but may be from the new check valve. Sounds like metal rattling.

On a related note, if my line going from the compressor to the unloader has any pressure in it that is relieved when I disconnect that line does it mean I need a new one? Wasn't a large amount of air, but that line is pretty short even though this time I did a loop to get the line some relief vs. a straight shot.

Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
St. Louis, MO
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#14

Here is a conceptual drawing of the setup fundamentals. The pressure switch must be downstream of the chk valve or pressure will release on the switch when the unloader unloads. The line to the unloader should not have pressure in it if the unloader is working correctly. I don’t know if you have the original setup with a powered unload solenoid, a retrofitted air compressor unloader switch, or something else. Simple test is with the compressor OFF, you should be able to blow air into the unload line.

Oh my, last picture please. I have tried and tried but cannot delete the accidental pictures.

Anyhoo, that’s Alex our son and his bride. Yeah, I know, I marked him up pretty badly.


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Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#15

Based upon your commentary, the autopsy revealed a breach in the head gasket? Any surface irregularities on the metal surfaces?

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
Reply
#16

(05-24-2023, 06:55 AM)Richard Wrote:  Based upon your commentary, the autopsy revealed a breach in the head gasket? Any surface irregularities on the metal surfaces?

No irregularities that I can see and it will now make air up to the cut off limit.  I didn't time it the other day, but I want to say I'm pretty close to 5 minutes of run time from cut in to cut out.  That was from a previous timing recently.  

On the diagram of my layout here my sketch and a photo as well.  

I will attempt to blow into the the line with compressor off to see if unloader has failed.


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Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
St. Louis, MO
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#17

I may see a potential problem. May is the operative word.

Your unloader valve is wired into the HWH over ride box.

In my opinion it should be wired into the well pump switch box.

How to wire, you may ask. Can’t answer that until we know if the unloader valve you are using is NC normally closed or NO normally open. Meaning if the valve is NO to atmosphere, then the 120V leads will attach to the pump leads, not the power in leads, at the well pump switch. That way, when the pump turns on, the unloader closes the path to the atmosphere and opens the path to the system.

You may already know the answer to this, but a very quick and simple sanity check is to dump enough air to start the pump. When it finishes it’s cycle and the well pump switch turns it off, you should hear a whoosh of exhaling air from the unloader valve.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#18

Richard, unrelated, but how do you manage the time to help us here whilst on vacation?! You are a hero in my book!

--Simon
1993 8v92TA #312
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#19

Awwww shucks……

Seriously, we are in transit to Alaska, so plenty of downtime. Rhonda plans on me driving about 200 per day with frequent non drive days. Helping others is my way of paying back for those who have helped me, plus I enjoy the mental exercise.

And Starlink helps, just sayin.

Richard and Rhonda Entrekin
99 Newell, 512
Maverick Hybrid Toad
Inverness, FL (when we're home Cool )
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#20

(05-24-2023, 02:02 PM)Richard Wrote:  You may already know the answer to this, but a very quick and simple sanity check is to dump enough air to start the pump. When it finishes it’s cycle and the well pump switch turns it off, you should hear a whoosh of exhaling air from the unloader valve.
I do not hear a whoosh when compressor hits cut out pressure.  

I believe from my reading on the manufacturer of that valve’s site it can be configured any number of ways.  Didn’t have much luck in finding a manual, but I’ll look again tomorrow.

Brad Aden
2003 Newell #653 Quad Slide Cat C-12 engine
St. Louis, MO
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