[Jack Houpe]

Well thanks for this information and going the extra mile and posting it. My hat is off to you sir job well done.

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Nicely done Rick! Another option to replace basement airs. I too have been looking at options. Can you comment more on the performance? You are saying it is much better than the Coleman? I was recently staying here in Florida in the full sun and my units were definitely working hard to keep things cool inside, seems like they never really shut off. We ended up going out during the heat of the day and I turned the units up to 77 F to give them a break. Especially after I heard what I think is the compressor starting to growl a bit. 

I have gotten my SCS units running fairly well and they are in decent shape as far as the coils go. I did have one of mine leak down, but I think it was the service valve that I added that leaked, at least that is what I am hoping. I have one compressor that sounds like it may be growling a bit.

[rickj]

Well thanks for this information and going the extra mile and posting it. My hat is off to you sir job well done.

thank you Jack. It was a daunting project and a steep learning curve; I am now just finishing the pass side AC replacement. Pass side a little tricky as the heater and hot air ducts are in the way of a clean straight shot from AC cold discharge, however I think we (we meaning my HVAC mechanical contractor) have a work around. One thing for sure is that the air flow is substantially improved over the Coleman and it runs much quieter. One concern we have is that the Newell ducting does not allow enough air flow and the air handler coils may freeze (has not happened while testing but only a long run time will determine); will have to determine by actual live-aboard experience this summer once we hit the road.

[rickj]

Nicely done Rick! Another option to replace basement airs. I too have been looking at options. Can you comment more on the performance? You are saying it is much better than the Coleman? I was recently staying here in Florida in the full sun and my units were definitely working hard to keep things cool inside, seems like they never really shut off. We ended up going out during the heat of the day and I turned the units up to 77 F to give them a break. Especially after I heard what I think is the compressor starting to growl a bit. 

I have gotten my SCS units running fairly well and they are in decent shape as far as the coils go. I did have one of mine leak down, but I think it was the service valve that I added that leaked, at least that is what I am hoping. I have one compressor that sounds like it may be growling a bit.

thank you Jeff. At this time have only tested the unit as I am in the process of also replacing the pass side AC, so no real life on-the-road experience yet. Performance: runs much quieter that the Coleman, blows more air thru the Newell ducting system (since I did the driver side first which feeds the rear of the coach,incidentally also feeds the 1/2 bath plus the living room, the amount of air flow increase from the bedroom and master bath is significant); and this is to be expected as both the air handler and condenser are residential units so much better quality and construction than RV designed AC. Also have a 10 year warranty. Once we hit the road this summer I will be able to ascertain the true cooling performance; biggest and most demanding test is cooling down the rear of the coach after a hot summer day of traveling when the engine heat has worked its way up into the rear master bath (with the Coleman unit it just would not cool down until the sun set; of course one problem is that Newel ran only one 3" duct to the master bath).

[Richard]

Nice job. I especially like the retrofit and use of existing ductwork. Air flow is the key base on my observations of other conversions.

Before you cut larger holes in the bay doors to increase air flow, you might play around with a fan or two forcing air through the existing opening. If that works, it would be a straight forward task to add a couple of pancake syle radiator fans to the inside of the door. Then trigger them from the AC controls via relay.

[rickj]

Nice job. I especially like the retrofit and use of existing ductwork. Air flow is the key base on my observations of other conversions.

Before you cut larger holes in the bay doors to increase air flow, you might play around with a fan or two forcing air through the existing opening. If that works, it would be a straight forward task to add a couple of pancake syle radiator fans to the inside of the door. Then trigger them from the AC controls via relay.

Richard, thanks for the idea; I'll have to determine if there is enough room between the condenser and the inside of the basement door.