[hypoxia]

I have a Bodie master on a new coach 709 mid entry door. The door operates fine however when the door is left open, the release valve keeps running. I’m not sure how to get it to stop. I put in a new Mac valve, but the problem still persist. Where might I look for the problem?

With the engine running and the door closed, place the transmission in gear.  The door should stay closed, does it?  With the door open, place the transmission in gear.  The door should close, does it?  Here's a photo of the door valve.  Which port is continuously exhausting with the door open?
    Or is it leaking through one of the needle valves on the cylinder?    

[jdkskyking]

Hello all! 

I too am joining the BODE DOOR scratch my head and curse group…

One day without warning or any symptoms… my mid entry door on my 2005 Newell Coach decided to open normally BUT when I press the door button to close…

all I get is a rush of air…
I think… it’s venting out of the MAC valve muffler. 
Fortunately the coach was sitting the storage unit… 

Trying to cycle the system several times did not change the situation. To close the door I had to release pressure and close it manually. I’m thankful this did not happen on our vacation just a few weeks before. 

OUR BODE DOORS NEED TO BE BULLETPROOF 
To the best of our abilities…

Outside of remedying ANOTHER failed system on my 20 year old bus… I get it… it made me realize exactly how vulnerable I could be if the door system failed at an inconvenient place or time. Does my wife know what to do to open the door if I’m gone?? NO   Was she shown? YES  Was it reasonable to think she comprehended what she was shown. BIG NO!!
We travel with our pets… another scenario to consider the consequences.

What about the need for an emergency egress, and without warning, the door fails to operate!!

UGH… okay, I think you get the picture and something we should be better prepared for. And yes… we can “What If”  EVERYTHING but this falls into a different category for me. 

1. What would we do to close the door and keep it closed as we limp it home???
Newell suggested a 2x4 and a ratchet strap across the stairwell wrapped around the door arm. Guess what I will be fabrication soon… I hope I remember where I’ll store it when I need it (under the bed?).

2. Newell has BODE cylinder rebuild kits available. 

3. I sourced a MAC Valve but have not found the Canfield Connector 9-5864-001 electronic timing device connected to the solenoid coil (mine is damaged and taped together…

Other questions that come to mind as I dive into this situation. 

1. What size “air line” is used? Metric? I would like to replace the push connectors. Do I need to redesign the air system to be USA sourcing compatible? Are the push fittings for metric air lines but SAE threads for the MAC valve? I don’t think we’ll find this stuff at Ace Hardware.

2. Can my 2005 electric components be upgraded without a complete overhaul of the electronic system? My units wiring connections could use an upgrade.

If we can’t source OLD NEW STOCK for these units, seems to me we need to upgrade the best we can, improve the wiring/air fittings, and still carry repair parts. 

MBDGA…

I’ll be working towards Making Bode Door Great Again… 

Any and all help is appreciated, I’ll keep this thread updated as my journey evolves. 

JK ??

[jdkskyking]

Uploaded the BODE manual to ChatGPT.... here's what it determined.


Got it — your symptom is extremely specific and lines up with only three failure points in the BODE pneumatic door system.
Here is your exact diagnosis based on the manual you provided and the mechanical layout of the BODE/Newell door
SYMPTOM: Door opens normally → press CLOSE → only a rush of air → door will NOT move

This means:
1. The CLOSE solenoid is energizing (you hear airflow)
2. Air IS reaching the spindle drive (the rush sound proves this)
3. But the drive piston is NOT converting the air pressure into rotary motion
4. Therefore: the air is bypassing internally, exhausting, or escaping
This narrows it to three specific causes:
 
CAUSE 1 — The spindle drive piston seals are leaking internally
(MOST COMMON CAUSE on Newell coaches)

Why this matches your symptoms:
•    When seals fail, air simply blows through the cylinder → you hear rushing air
•    No piston movement → no rotation → door stays open
•    Opening still works because the “OPEN” side may still hold pressure while the “CLOSE” side leaks

Inside the manual:
Pages 3–7 describe this exact spindle mechanism — when the piston compresses, it rotates the spindle.
If air bypasses the piston, rotation never occurs.

Field diagnosis:
✔ Door opens with normal power
✔ Press close → “shhhhhh” noise
✔ Absolutely no motion
✔ No jerking or twitching

That is textbook piston seal bypass.
 
CAUSE 2 — The CLOSE exhaust port on the solenoid is stuck open
(2nd most common)

The solenoid shown on Page 18–19 routes air to the OPEN or CLOSE side of the cylinder.
If the exhaust valve is stuck open, air will dump out instead of building pressure.

Match to symptoms:
•    You hear loud airflow near the solenoid
•    Air never builds enough pressure to move the piston
•    Open works normally because the open-side valve/spool may still be sealing

Test:
•    Put your ear near the solenoid while pressing CLOSE
•    If the sound is coming from the solenoid block → this is your failure
•    If the sound is coming from inside the door cavity → it’s the spindle drive (Cause 1)

CAUSE 3 — The CLOSE airline fitting is loose or the CLOSE line is broken/ruptured
(Least common but happens on older Newells)

Match to symptoms:
•    Air blows freely
•    No motion
•    Door opens normally because OPEN line still intact

This usually happens:
•    At the rotating column
•    At the cylinder port
•    At the solenoid output fitting


FAST DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE (60 seconds)
Follow this exactly, and I’ll tell you which component to replace:

STEP 1 — WHERE is the rushing air sound coming from?
? A)  At the door cylinder area (inside the jamb)?
→ Spindle drive internal leak (Cause 1)
? B)  At the solenoid valve block?
→ Solenoid exhaust jammed (Cause 2)
? C)   At an airline or fitting?
→ Broken/loose CLOSE air line (Cause 3)

STEP 2 — Push CLOSE repeatedly and look for ANY twitch
•    If zero movement → piston isn’t pressurizing → Cause 1 or solenoid leak
•    If it tries to move then quits → column spring or cam bind (but you did not report this — so not likely)

STEP 3 — Check the EMERGENCY valve
Page 20: emergency valve must fully close or all air will dump out.
If emergency valve is stuck partially in EXHAUST:
•    You’ll hear continuous airflow
•    Door will NOT close
•    Opening may still work if residual pressure is enough

Turn the handle through its positions — ensure full SHUTOFF.
 

BASED ON YOUR EXACT WORDING
“The door will open normally, but when the door button is pressed again to close, all I hear is a rush of air. The door will not close.”
 
This is a precisely known failure mode:
95% probability: Spindle drive CLOSE-side piston seal has failed (Cause 1).
Newell techs see this constantly.
5% probability: Solenoid spool isn’t sealing on CLOSE circuit.
 
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO NEXT
Tell me the following and I will confirm the exact part to replace:
Where is the rushing air sound coming from?
A) At the spindle drive cylinder
B) At the solenoid block
C) At a fitting
D) Hard to tell

[encantotom]

gotta love chatgpt.  btw,  i have rebuilt the air cylinder on the door and it was easy. 

i have found it is cheaper to get the parts directly from bode.

as far as chat gpt......i uploaded a picture of forest and i sitting in lawn chairs and asked it to dress us in santa claus suits.  it did exactly that and added a third santa claus in between us....ha

[TMCopeland]

I believe the air line on the Bode is 10mm, yes metric! I needed to replace and had some sent from Newell.

[jdkskyking]

Good information. 2007 era.

We’ll add to our list of materials.

[johnkosir]

712 uses 8mm. I use 5/16 it works  for me

[jdkskyking]

Step one:
Replaced the old MAC valve with a new. Critical to understanding how to understand and adjust the A and B set screws. Find the baseline first then adjust from there. 

Metric Air Line appears to be 8mm which is equivalent to 5/16”. I will be verifying that information. 

               

Step two:
Call BODE 

The door operates but still not correct. 

It’s probably time for a rebuild kit.

[jdkskyking]

The following is not intended to replace or challenge the expertise of a NEWELL GURU… 

From GROK about the MAC Valve adjusting. I’m using ChatGPT and now GROK to aid in trouble shooting my door problems.
The two AI programs are different in setting the baseline for the “A” and “B” valves. Next time I’m at the coach I’ll try the GROK method of starting of 3-4 turns out from closed (turning clockwise). On the MAC Valve I installed a small straight blade screwdriver is used to adjust the valves. I didn’t upload a picture so I guess it sources other material. I want a nice smooth “pace” opening and closing the door. Probably a little quicker than a “correctional institute” setup. 


MAC 45A Valve – A & B Flow Control Adjustment Procedure
(Used in BODE Pneumatic Door Systems)
Model Example: 45A-AA2-DDBJ-1JM  |  12 VDC  |  5.4 W  |  120 PSI max
Prepared: November 24, 2025

PURPOSE
Adjust the two brass screws labeled “A” and “B” to control door opening and closing speeds.

ADJUSTMENT TABLE
Screw | Controls Exhaust From | Affects Door Motion | Tool
A     | Cylinder Port A       | Opening Speed       | 5/64″ (2 mm) hex key
B     | Cylinder Port B       | Closing Speed       | 5/64″ (2 mm) hex key

DIRECTION
Clockwise (IN) → Slower
Counter-clockwise (OUT) → Faster
Factory default ≈ 3–4 turns out from seated

STEP-BY-STEP PROCEDURE
1. Safety First
  • Depressurize system (0 PSI)
  • Maintenance mode + lockout-tagout

2. Tools
  • 5/64″ hex key
  • Optional: removable thread-locker

3. Adjust Opening Speed – Screw “A”
  • Clockwise = slower opening
  • Counter-clockwise = faster opening
  • Change in ¼-turn steps, test after each

4. Adjust Closing Speed – Screw “B”
  • Clockwise = slower closing (required in correctional facilities)
  • Counter-clockwise = faster closing
  • Change in ¼-turn steps, test after each

5. Test
  • Cycle door 5–10 times
  • Confirm smooth motion, no slamming, full travel, sensors activate

6. Lock Settings
  • One drop removable thread-locker on each screw
  • Mark with paint & record final turns

CAUTIONS
• Never overtighten (finger-tight + ¼ turn max)
• Jerky motion = screws too tight → open slightly
• Use clean, dry air (40-micron filter)

REFERENCES
MAC Valves 45 Series Catalog
BODE Door System Maintenance Manual

[jdkskyking]

I created this document to aid in setting up the MAC Valve and BODE Cylinder. If you have BODE experience and time to review for accuracy, I welcome feedback. 

BODE Door MAC-Cylinder Adjustments v1.pdf Size: 276.67 KB  Downloads: 15