[David W]

            I have coach #145 and am getting around to fixing the starter circuit. Here's what I have. Previous owner said it would never start from the front since he had it. He always started it from the rear. It had quite a few other things that needed addressed first, so I am now ready to dive into this. It has since quit starting from the rear all together. It will start on the starter so no problem  there. I put up photos to show the rear. The red/ black wire that's disconnected from the terminal so far is the culprit. It goes to the solenoid, but has no continuity. My question is where does it go between terminal block and solenoid? That's where I'm losing power from rear start switch. I'm leaning towards the front start problem being in the neutral safety switch from some checking before it completely stopped.

Also what configuration does the rear switches need to be in for the front to work?

Thanks,
David Williams

[Richard]

First English is a second language for this redneck so I often need translation. Have you applied 12v directly to the trigger terminal on the start solenoid in your last pic? Does the engine turn over and or crank? The answer will tell us a lot. Your comment “has no continuity” sort of is unclear to me. You should have 12v on the wire when the start circuit is engaged.

Regardless replace that solenoid because it is a known failure. I think its a cole hersee intermittent duty.

I dont know if you can see the fuel shutoff solenoid. If so does it open when the engine is ON?

[David W]

Thanks I have 12v at the terminal block #14 when start in engaged, but not at the solenoid. That's why I disconnected both places and checked with ohm meter, no continuity. That's why I was wondering where it went before the solenoid. Yes if I put 12v to the terminal on the solenoid it will start. The fuel shut off opens and closes (12v terminal #4) with the rear switch but not the front switch.
Maybe this helps

[Richard]

That helped a tremendous amount !!!!!!! Great diagnostic skills on your part. If it’s me, I am going to run a new wire from 14 to the solenoid, weave it into the existing so it will be neat, and call it a day.

With the moisture impact I see in the pics, the problem could be as simple as a 30 year old crimp.

As far as the front, here are some ideas. Find a schematic for the GM steering column, so you can unplug the big white connector and check your key on, and starter engage continuity. Second, go to the passenger foot well breaker panel and find the ignition on circuit and relay. Ensure it is activating properly.

[David W]

Thanks Richard, that's what I'm thinking on the wire too. I know it goes through the back of the panel into the engine bay but I can't find it without going into the wiring harness, so I'm probably going to just run a new one till something shows up.
I'll find a gm diagram for the column and check that, I thought it looked like a old gm pickup. I'll also check in the fuse panel again. That's where I found a blown fuse that was the problem the travel air suspension and also found it was the cruise control. Replaced that fuse and now both work.

[David W]

Update on what I have found: The plug on the steering column had a loose wire in the plug. Repaired that and it restored power to fuel shutoff and also oil pressure light. Ran a jumper from terminal block to solenoid and now it starts and shuts down from the front or rear. Thanks.

[Richard]

Woo Hoo!

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Update on what I have found: The plug on the steering column had a loose wire in the plug. Repaired that and it restored power to fuel shutoff and also oil pressure light. Ran a jumper from terminal block to solenoid and now it starts and shuts down from the front or rear. Thanks.

Excellent, great find. Sometimes finding stuff like that can really be challenging. Glad you found it and thanks for posting the update, that will hopefully help someone else someday.