[Fulltiming]

I have used the Trik L Start that Forest references for the past 7 years. It has worked well. I am sure the Echo-charge would be as good or better since it allows a larger current (15 amps vs 5 amps for the Trik L Start) but it is more significantly more expensive ($131 vs $48).

Either do the same thing, they allow the house batteries to slowly recharge the chassis batteries UNTIL the house batteries drop below a specified voltage then disconnect the two battery banks for each other. They do NOT allow the engine batteries to feed current to the house batteries which would discharge the engine/chassis batteries. Either one eliminates the need for you to use the merge switch for routine purposes when the coach is plugged in.

[Fulltiming]

Sources for the above are:

Trik L Start: http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html

Echo Charger: http://www.amazon.com/ECHO-CHARGE-12V-24...B0016G8RT8
or cheaper at:
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/xantrex-h...AglE8P8HAQ

[encantotom]

hi all,

i put the trik-l-charge on the 90. my 02 has the xantrex/heart echo charge. there is an upgraded version that charges up to 15a (vs the 5a of the triklcharge).

i think there may be some confusion as to how they work. the connections are simple enough. one wire to the house and one to the charging batteries. (can be hooked directly to the batteries, or to the battery isolator, or to the merge solenoid.)

they "steal" current from the house batteries to charge the starting batteries when it dectets a 1/2 volt difference. that said, it ONLY does that when the house batteries are being charged by the inverter charger. when they are not being charged, the unit is inactive.

so, if you are dry camping, it will not pull from your house batteries unless you have the generator running.

in my case, the starting batteries were dead last week, and it was plugged in and charging the house batteries, that means i have something wrong with one or more of my starting batteries or a bad ground on the starting side or bad positive connection on the positive side. i will find out later when i am back at the coach. it did start by using the mergre (on mine called emergency start) as it should have. in one position of the 3 way rocker switch it did nothing (meaning that is the side that powers the solenoid with the starting batteries) and the other position it worked (because it used the house batteries to power the merge solenoid to combine the two battery banks.)and barely started the series 60. (because the starting batteries were drawing down all the combined batteries together)

many are confused as to why there are 3 positions on the merge/emergency start solenoid. and that is why. middle off, up and down each respectively power the solenoid to combine the battery banks by either the house or starting batteires depending on which is wired to what side of the switch.

the echocharger, triklstart and amplstart all do basically the same thing. the echocharger being twice the price of the biggest of the other two.

tom

[encantotom]

michael, you posted while i was doing my writeup. if i was buying one again, i would buy the upgraded big brother of the trik l start, the amp l start.

http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html

tom

[Fulltiming]

Thanks Tom. I see that the Amp L Start is the same 15 amp max as the Echo Charger for $65.

You are correct, my statement was misleading. While the Echo Charger, Trik L Start and Amp L Start all connect to the house batteries, they ONLY turn on when the voltage in the house batteries is high enough that it is obviously receiving a charge. The turn on voltage for the Amp L Start is 13.2 volts and the turn off voltage is 12.8 volts.

[folivier]

Another reason to switch to LiFePO4 batteries, the normal voltage is 13.4 so it always keeps the engine batteries charged. Hey guys it's only a $4000 upgrade!
So far my engine batteries have always been kept charged even after sitting for a few months with no charge other than the TrikLStart.

[Fulltiming]

Tom, you are a bad influence on my bank account. I just ordered the Amp L Start.

[Flick]

Guys this weekend I pulled the coach out after it had been stored for a couple of weeks. The house batteries were stone cold dead. I drove it for 2 hours and ran the generator for an hour of that. House batteries were still dead. I had replaced the solenoid switch in the back as we discussed.

I put a battery charger on overnight and they seemed to have charged up. I need advice as I am not sure the house batteries are being charged. Is there a way to test the seleniod I put on to see if it works? Driving for 2 hours should have charged it some right? What about the generator for an hour wouldn't that charge them up a little?

---

Oh and I looked for the deal Chester mentioned in the back panel and in the electric bay but don't see one so I must not have one.

[Richard]

Todd,

The easy way to test the solenoid is to measure voltage on both sides. Measure from the terminal to ground, not terminal to terminal. You should have the same voltage or close on both side if the solenoid is working.

Got to ask a dumb question. You did check the battery disconnect switch for the house batteries?

The merge feature and the generator not charging the house batts has me wondering if the batteries are somehow isolated.

[whatsnewell]

Richard, that's what I'm thinking....