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02-08-2019, 05:22 PM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
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Not a for sale but maybe someone knows of a coach that isn't actively for sale but was or could be. We are looking for an early steering tag, mid-door coach. We have a 96 45' Newell for sale that I'll be putting up on RV Trader shortly.

Hi everyone; we have been enjoying our 36 ft Holiday Rambler f or 3 years now and have decided to go full time. We have been looking at early nineties 42 footers, Can anyone tell me when the transition to Wide 102 bodies came about and what models etc to look for. And which to steer clear of if any. Thanks very much Steve and Janet

02-07-2019, 05:51 AM
Forum: Coaches for Sale (Please read the info in the Category description)
- Replies (3)
This is kind of an odd case. This ad showed sold several weeks ago. The coach showed up at Rayford Crossing RV Resort. I spoke with the new owners who said they had just purchased at MOT. The coach now shows back for sale at MOT.
http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv/new...ath--P1296

I have had a problem with oil venting from the air dryer discharge since day one of owning the 86 coach . It has the original CR Brakemaster air / dryer heat exchanger . Originally the discharge was routed into the muffler via a copper tube . I replaced the exhaust system from the turbo down pipe , muffler ,etc, and didn't want to go back into the muffler with the discharge , so I plumbed the discharge into a PVC catch tank using steel braid hose . This has helped , but it still lubricates the bumper , trailer , etc .
I am aware that the compressor is likely in need of replacement / rebuild , but it will be hard for me to get it out so I would like to cover all the bases first . I have read posts about replacing the old air dryer with an AD -9 unit and solving this issue . I have seen this on other sites as well . I started the engine Sunday and noted that from zero psi on the supply side , 90psi brake , to the point of the low air light going off was just under four minutes . I am wondering how this compares to other classics , and has anyone upgraded successfully to the AD-9 ?
Thanks ,
Chris

Does anyone have one that you replaced?

Happy Super Bowl Sunday Everyone!!
The following will be a story of a idea I got today because y Packers are losers and team two the KC Chiefs came up short... read on about my idea if you have nothing else to do... I’ll include pictures to make this more interesting...
Today I took a break from “everything” to make an attempt at cleaning up my shop and putting tools back in their proper place.
I’ve got the generator blower unit out of my rig and it’s sitting right in the middle of one of my shop’s bays. So ever time I walked around it... it was on my mind.
Last year when I first saw the generator blower system it just struck me as an odd design. Once I saw it running I knew something just wasn’t right. The belt was flopping everywhere and the motor was bouncing up and down like it was on a small trampoline... The vibration ran throughout the coach and of course there was the sound.... I’m not telling many of you anything new.
I’ve alread got the direct drive unit and will soon be ready to start the install but today, designing a better mouse trap was on my mind.
When I stepped back to take a look it was clear to me things were not aligned properly. I marked up the picture to illustrate my point. The HEAVY motor was not supported evenly and this caused it to lean. When I took a closer look at how the motor belt tension was accomplished I knew this setup would never be optimal.
So today I decided to modify the way the motor mounts to the fan.
In my next segment I’ll post some pictures of the motor and its mount.
Disclaimer:
I’m not an engineer
I’m not a designer
I’m not a fabricator
I’m not a welder
I’m just a dude that likes to work on things and try new stuff

My dash air became inop because of a plugged thermostatic expansion valve. Classic symptoms were very low suction pressure and very high high side pressures with no cooling. Simple diagnosis but not so simple of a fix.
First challenge is to remove the old TXV. In my 99 it is in the bowels of the lower dash area. I finally gained limited access by removing both the HWH control panel and the rear view monitor. After evacuating the system, don't snigger I have a reclaim unit, I removed the TXV. The hunt was now on. No identifying info. It was made by Parker Hannifin, but they sold their automotive biz years ago. After two days of looking at expansion valve catalogs and surfing the interweb, the valve was identified. A Four Seasons 38872 is a workable replacement. You can get one here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2...UTF8&psc=1
I also replaced the dryer, a rather generic part, but try getting one at the local parts house without a make model and year of car. I used this one Four Seasons 33321. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DC...UTF8&psc=1
I discovered a lot of debris at the filter dryer so I decided to flush the system. Holy moly, I got about a teaspoon, no exaggeration of grit out of the system. No wonder the TXV was stopped up. I suspect the original filter drier failed in some manner.
Pulled a vac for a couple of hours, no leak down. Pumped up with N2 and no leak down. Put in 3.5 lbs of liquid R134a on the high side without the motor running. I let that sit for an hour. Then cranked the engine, and put in about another 8 oz of vapor on the low side. Ambient temp was 75. Low side was a steady 12 psi, and high was 175 psi. The gauges had never been this steady before. Vent temperature was frosty ! Oh yeah, I did put replacement PAG oil in for what I captured on the flush.
Total refrigerant capacity for the system was very close to 4 lbs 134a.
So, in addition to the part numbers. The primo lesson was if you tear into the dash air system, flush it, or you may be going back for rework soon.
I will tweak the refrigerant level if necessary when the weather gets warmer.
Hope this helps you someday.

I recently had to replace the muffler on my 99 Newell. The original was the Riker model as documented in other threads. I could not find the Riker on line, and I wondered if there was a financially efficient solution than ordering one from the mothership.
I did not want to use a straight pipe, and I really didn't want to do any major welding or modifications that would prevent the use of the original style Riker.
I opted to use this round muffler. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2N...UTF8&psc=1
You also need a elbow to transition out of the existing flex tubing into a horizontal run. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N65...UTF8&psc=1
You need two clamps https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZD...UTF8&psc=1
And a short piece of round tubing to make an exhaust tip. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079VF...UTF8&psc=1
I used an angle grinder to get the length and angle right.
I used two generic muffler hangars to support the muffler at the elbow, and at the exhaust tip. Total modification to the coach was to drill one hole for the aft hangar.
Initial results are the sound is no louder than the original muffler. I will report on maximum turbo boost, fuel mileage, and jake brake sound when I have some miles on this setup.

hi all ! just bought my 1995 newell #395 in Arizona afew weeks ago and drove it back to Connecticut..2800 miles on my first trip
of course I make afew beginner mistakes but it was a safe and fun trip
glad to be aboard !!
Does anyone have part numbers for HWH slide pin locks? Not sure if there are different types but mine have limit switches inside of them for detecting whether the pin is engaged or not.
I have one that seems to have a slight leak. Also wondering if they are serviceable, ie can I just replace a seal inside of it?