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I would like to find a new or better set of chrome mirrors for my 1998 my bases are peeling. If someone had painted ones I would consider as I can get them replaced. Thanks Joe 6-2 510 5621

Oh Mighty Newell Gurus I come to you with another issue... 

I replaced my indicator lights above drivers seat. 5/6 ain’t bad... well, the inoperative light coincides with the inoperative L2 ammeter gauge... I’m assuming...

Before I start taking “stuff” apart, has anyone had the same issue? 

While I was in there, I tried to straighten things up and correct a few other items. 

I also figured out why the radar detector wasn’t working. It was hooked up. Then I figured out why it wasn’t hooked up... it won’t stop beeping... well, it can be powered down but I gues it’s also inop...

Gurus,

On some coaches is a cool feature that allows you to flip one switch and fill your tank if you are connected to city water.  

If it works, it’s great!  But if it doesn’t work, it causes really weird problems.

The way that it works is that there is a cutoff valve is in the main water line after the pumps (12V and 120V).  When activated, it diverts pretty much all the water into the top of the tank.
   

It is made by Asco. (Model 104R Shutoff valve)  

   

The bad news is that the valve is prone to getting gunk’d up and stopping working.  More on that later.

The good news is that it is really old school and designed to be cleaned and repaired.  

To clean it, pop off the red cap.  Now here is the tricky part.  Depress the entire green housing.  That will allow the metal title plate to slide over and come off.  (The plate is what holds the housing to the piece with the center post).  Be sure to catch the spring at the base of the center post.  (See picture).

   
   

Once you have the housing off, you can remove the four bolts.  The center post and its base will come off now.  (There is a rubber diaphragm under the base).   You will find a plunger/spring under the diaphragm.  Clean it all up.  You will find a tiny hole in the diaphragm.  Make sure this is clean as well.  

Put it all back together including the springs.  NOTE:  the tiny hole need to be oriented 45 degrees away from the outlet. 


Symptoms:

1).  Low water pressure inside the coach no matter what you do.  City/Tank/12V pump/120V pump it doesnt matter.  You might have a little flow but not much.
2).  If you are connected to city water long enough, your tank will fill and will finally overflow.   This will create a big watery mess.  (Ask me how I know this).
3). The pumps will not develop enough pressure to cut off...even if you have no water running inside the coach.

The failure mode seems to be that the plunger gets stuck.  The diverts water into the tank even if you don’t want it to.

So in the words of an elder guru. ... “Think horses not zebras”.  I had already replaced my 12V pump thinking it was leaking air into the system and would not prime.  What was really happening is that the pump was working correctly but pumping water into the tank.  The clue that I should have paid attention to is that both pumps stopped working at the same time.  Also, the water tank overflowing was a well-duh moment.

If you have one of these valves, add an annual cleaning to your PM list.

Cheers,
Bill

Newell has #1500 for sale https://www.newellcoach.com/default.asp?...dInventory

   

   

   

Found a broken blade on the turbo intake fan.  See the picture.  Could this be the cause of the engine running hotter at higher speeds?  What is the recommended way to repair these, rebuild them?

Thanks, Frank

The better half and I haven’t got a newell yet we are looking at them now am hoping to get one by summer. I will be watching and reading all i can.

Been working on our hit list for the past week since acquiring coach #525.  The rear SCS unit has a shorted #1 comp terminal.  Sent flight systems the attached pictures, they seem to thick it is repairable.  My plan is to install the external relays to help with removing the high loads from the board on both units. 

The way I understand the system operation of a single unit, is that two compressors (#1 & #2) operate together when high demand is required.  When the temp has been reached the single compressor (say #1) maintains the temp unless the room temp moves to a point greater than 3 degrees of the T-stat setting.  With that scenario in mind, #1 compressor is the one that gets used the most in our systems.  I am thinking of putting #2 compressor to the #1 comp position on the board and #1 compressor to the #2 comp position on the board.  By doing that it would give the #1 compressor a rest and put #2 compressor as the one that maintains the t-stat setting until a higher demand is required. 

Is there something I am missing on this thought?

BTW I tried the photo editing Tom suggested so here goes.

Gurus,

Many of us have heard of or experienced the long sad saga of the control boards in SCS basement AC units.  In case you have not heard....these boards are prone to failing...sometimes in a spectacular fashion.  The boards were not great when they were built and age has not been kind to them.  Some folks have added external relays to the board to relieve the stress of running current through the board.  Others have replaced components and added additional traces.  

Newell has used an external vendor to repair old boards, but the supply of the older (non-cooked) boards has dwindled to nothing.  This meant that if a board cooked it self, there was no way to get the AC running again.

All of that is now behind us.  Morgan Partman is the parts manager at Newell.  He told me that he was frustrated that he did not have a good replacement for a bad board.  When the supply of old repaired boards ran out, he had no solution for a guy with a bad board and no AC.  He set about designing and producing mock SCS control boards.   

This is the result. 

     

The board appears to be well made with clean solder joints on a very solid substrate.

I am not sure what input Newell corp had in the project but they are available from Newell.  Contact Newell parts department for the current price but I believe they are in the $575-600 range each.  Not cheap but much, much better than nothing.

Morgan said that they have been installed in 8 coaches so far and seem to be working well.

Kudos to Morgan and to Newell for spending the time and resources to make these boards available!

For details contact the Newell parts department.

Bill

Has anyone DIY replaced the Slideout trim?  Ours is sagging... Newell estimated a week to do the work but we cannot drive the coach to Newell currently or in the near future. TIA! Adrian

2004 Quad Slide listed on eBay with 79,900 miles and 715 generator hrs. New house batteries 2018
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