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  1. Newell Gurus
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  Trans won't go into Drive

Posted by: 409Mint
01-05-2019, 08:35 PM
Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
- Replies (13)

Serviced the trans, changed filters, changed out filter "cap" which was broke and leaking like a siv.
Made new lines and setup a new trans cooler, put it all back together.

Now this thing will go into Reverse, but no Drive...

It gives me the three codes
2511
5517
5587

The 55 codes refer to clutch pack 3 engagement...

Best part is, coach is backed 20' out of the shop and it's starting to sprinkle!

Any help would be appreciated gents.

Obviously I've checked all the plugs, loose wires, trans fluid level, etc

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  Rebuilt engine and drivetrain

Posted by: pairodice
01-04-2019, 02:29 PM
Forum: Drivetrain
- Replies (1)

I think we will be getting our coach back from the shop next week and I can’t wait to drive it!  We had the engine completely overhauled and also the rear end and transmission were reworked.  The engine looks great so far and am looking forward to seeing it all go back together.

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  Smoking Valve Cover Vent

Posted by: jdkskyking
01-04-2019, 12:43 PM
Forum: General Repair
- Replies (35)

Hello again,
As some of you may know I’ve been chasing a couple issues in the engine compartment. It appears I corrected a coolant leak that was dripping on the exhaust stack thus causing smoke. 

Now I have smoke coming from the valve cover vent pipe. I’m posting a picture but here are a few details. 
Coach had been driven approximately 10 miles, coolant temp 185*, oil temp 173*, and the outside air temp is 45*. 

I’ve reached out to the manager of the Tampa Florida Detroit Diesel Service Center who’s team worked on the engine before I brought it home. I have not heard back from him. 

In the meantime can anyone tell me if this looks normal based on the information I’ve provided. 

Thanks, JK

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  Water in air system and cold weather

Posted by: Richard
01-04-2019, 05:42 AM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (2)

It's early, I have too much coffee, and it's too dark to play outside. 

This time of year, the forum gets a fair amount of commentary on air system weirdness and leakage. 

We all know that water in the air system creates rust in the tanks, the rust creates debris that can migrate and clog small orifices, and air valves such as the Height Control Valve, the potties, and all the air operated doors can experience problems. Not to mention the possible contamination of the braking system components. 

But there is another phenomenon that occurs that is a little harder to get your head wrapped around. You'll have to forgive me for getting all geeky with the engineer talk, but here goes. 

We know from experience that when a gas such as air goes from a high pressure to a low pressure that the gas cools. That's why your propane tank gets cool when grilling, it's why an aerosol can gets cooler when spraying the contents, and it's why the freon can gets really cold when adding refrigerant to your system. That cooling is caused by adiabatic expansion. The high pressure side is losing energy by releasing the pressure to the low side. Energy loss results in lower temperature. 

Of course the opposite is true when pumping a gas from a low pressure to a higher pressure. It gets warmer. Just touch the outlet of a running air compressor if you need proof. 

So why bring this up. If you have moisture in the air system, and it is escaping through a small orifice, then at temperatures above freezing, ice can form in the escape path. We don't normally think of ice forming below freezing, but in this circumstance, it can and it will. 

This information is particulary useful in helping to diagnose cold weather related air system weirdness. The first place this can really trip you up is the Height control valve. It is constantly releasing a small amount of air as the suspension moves up and down. In cool temps, you can form ice in that valve. The second place that this can occur is in the automated drain systems associated with the auxiallary air compressors. Those drain systems are prone to a bit of air seepage at the drain. Add the water in the separator bowl, the cooling effect of adiabatic expansion, and you have a recipe for ice forming in the drain valve at temperatures above freezing. 

Before you curse this physical phenomenon, keep in mind that it's the very principle that drives the air conditioning systems. But that's a conversation for another day. 

A common approach used in cold weather by truckers and RV owners is to add methanol to the air system. As Jon pointed out in another post, the methanol lowers the freezing point of the water in the system. However, it does not evaporate the water in the system in any meaningful way. Don't believe the marketing hype, unless the marketer has found a way around the laws of physics. There is no substitute for draining the tanks, and keeping the air dryers in working order.

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Thumbs Up New member

Posted by: Trophied
01-03-2019, 02:31 PM
Forum: Please introduce yourself
- Replies (6)

I've looked longingly at Newell's every time my wife and I started thinking about full time RVing.  There don't seem to be very many coaches that really compare with Newell's.  So, here we are considering it again, and looking at pre-owned coaches and there are a number of them that are in our projected price range.  We'll have a lot more information in a couple of weeks.  Both of us are 70+, and we've had a diesel coach several years ago and really enjoyed travelling in it.  Glad I found this forum and registered, even though we are still WITHOUT at this point.  Cheers to all.

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  problems with pictures turning sideways

Posted by: encantotom
01-02-2019, 08:41 AM
Forum: General
- Replies (3)

hi all,

i need some help with information.  often, when gurus are posting a picture, it is fine on their device but is turned sideways on the forum.  from looking at the metadata for the pictures, i believe it is happening just on pictures taken on iphones.  but not sure.  

for any of you that have had that happen, can you tell me what type of picture taking camera you are using.  

also, it appears that it is a metadata issue and not something that can be fixed in the forum software we use.  as best i can tell, it has to do with how you hold your phone to take the picture.  all of this has to do with the viewer knowing if it is going to display in portrait or landscape.  no matter how you take the picture, on your device it will look right when you view it.  but on the forum it is dumber than your phone so i will rotate it to where it thinks it should be.  

when i go in and fix them for folks (i do it sometimes) i download your picture into a photo editor and (it displays correctly in the editor) and i rotate it and rotate it back and save it and then re upload it to gurus.  that tricks the forum software.  

just to remind everyone, this is a forum run on a shoestring budget with freeware and darlene and i footing all the support costs (i do not want any contributions nor will i accept any). we we do the best we can with minimal costs

happy new year

tom

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  Love the bath & a half

Posted by: rheavn
01-02-2019, 06:08 AM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- No Replies

Just prior to the holidays I flushed the rear toilet and there was a loud bang as it flushed.  The bottom part of the air/water sequence valve had broken for no clear reason.

I called Mullaney & Associates who provide parts for the Microphor toilets.  Found out they no longer make the black sequence valve like is in both my toilets.  Good news is they do make a grey & black redesigned sequence valve that takes the place of the old  black style.  Bad news was that they were out of stock and wouldn't have any for "a while".  He told me he might have enough parts to "make one" but wasn't sure.  Contacted them back after Christmas & they said they did have the parts and would ship it out.  Received it New Years eve.  Thank goodness for the 2nd toilet in the bath & a half floorplan!

The nice thing about the new sequence valve is the fitting holes are color coded to correspond with the air line colors.  Installed it & it works great.

I had always spoken with Sue when I called Mullaney & Associates before.  Parts are now being handled by AnnaMaria Rapsomananiskis and Steve Cackowski.  The new phone number is (856) 596-1299.  Their hours are 10am to 6pm EST.  Website is the same.

The part number for the air/water sequence valve is 39014.  Cost is $399.

In the photo you'll see two black parts below the main valve body.  Those two pieces used to be just one part.

Don't know why photos are posting sideways lately.

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  My dog ate my dash

Posted by: bikestuff
01-01-2019, 08:14 PM
Forum: Interior Things
- Replies (6)

Gurus,

A while ago, I left my dogs in the coach for a little too long without something for them to do.  The result is that my passenger armrest along with part of the dash got chewed on.   Since my dash was already looking a little worn, it was time to do something about that.  I decided to attempt DIY recovering of my dash.  There are a couple of "before pictures" along with some "after" pictures.

My first task was to recover the door trim to learn the technique and decide on the materials to use.      

The material is ultra leather and came from sailrite.com.  I ordered several samples and chose the one that most closely matched my coach.  While I was on the website, I ordered some 1/4" scrim foam.  (The foam is glued to base structure and the "leather" is attached with staples).  The ultra leather turned out to be a fairly close match to the original leather.  

Recovering the door went well and I decided to go ahead and do the dash.  See pictures.

Generally .... here are the steps that I followed.

1)  Pull the J panel from the top of the dash.  (Attached with "Christmas Tree" pins).
2)  Pull the top of the passenger arm rest.  (Attached with "Christmas Tree" pins).
3)  Pull the main section of the dash. (Attached with 7/16 nuts....accessible from the top if your arms are long enough).
4)  Pull the drivers arm rest.  (Attached with 7/16 nuts from underside).
5)  Pull the steering column cover.
6.  Pull the window shade and then the leather pieces above the windshield.  (Drivers side was dry rotted from water damage).
7.  Pull the A-Pillar covers (Attached with screws)
8.  Pull the glove-box cover (Attached with "Christmas Tree" pins)

I used a staple remover tool (from sailrite.com) to pull the staples that held the leather on to the plastic pieces.   For some pieces the existing scrim foam was in good shape.  For others the scrim foam was degraded.  Removing the scrim foam is tedious.  I found that Goo-gone was helpful in removing the adhesive.

I used spray adhesive to attach new scrim foam.  (trim to the edge).

For each piece, start in the middle and staple the material on both sides while stretching the material tight.  Work your way out from the middle stapling as you go.  (stretch the fabric gently).

Replace the pieces in the reverse order.

I was able to do the whole thing with scissors, staple puller tool, stapler and glue.  Total cost was around $500 plus labor.  (With tons of material left over)

Tips:

1.  Observe how the old material was attached.  In the corners will be relief cuts.  Try to duplicate those.
2.  The material stretches more in one direction than the perpendicular direction.  Use this to your advantage.
3.  A really good pair of sheers makes neat cuts which makes everything look better.
4.  I used a 3/8" air upholstery stapler, but sailrite.com recommends a 1/2" stapler.  
5.  Sailrite.com has a bunch of videos which will teach the basics.
6.  Contact cement is great for attaching the material to the A-Pillar covers.

Cheers,
bill

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  New Newell Owner :-)

Posted by: Latitude 28
12-31-2018, 06:46 PM
Forum: Please introduce yourself
- Replies (4)

Hello All,
Well we have zeroed in on a Newell and purchased it this week.  It is a 99 model #525 bath and a half.  We had been searching for a BB or Prevost until somebody said take a look at the Newell. We had previewed an 92 BB 40' nice coach but not enough headroom. The Prevost XII in the late 90s range was pretty much the same situation.....the H3s have 79" or headroom as I am 6'6" I desire some bridge clearance.

We had looked a several Newells and found a 92 that needed a bunch of work and had a mid bath that was private from front to the master.  Not ideal, but an okay compromise given our requirements. 

We made contact with Richard & Ronda, as they are close by and was gracious enough to have us over.   We toured their coach and loved it.  A huge shout-out to Richard and Ronda!! Thank you both for steering us in the right direction.

The coach we bought was a result of Micheal pointing out, last week that it was a bath & half.  We had seen the pics over a month ago and missed the half bath detail. The bath in the back of the coach would not work at all for us so we blew it of and kept looking. 

Long story short flew to Tulsa last Thursday and with all the Guru's help we struck a deal by Friday.  The sales guy knew we are newbies buying our last coach first....he said, I quote, "you know somebody don't you?".  Thank you all for your time time in posting your experiences and hope to do the same as time goes buy.

Happy New Year
Steve & Doris Denton

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  what is this tool?

Posted by: encantotom
12-31-2018, 01:35 PM
Forum: General
- Replies (7)

this was in the 99 newell i just bought.  it looks kinda like the thing that steve has made to do the bay door struts, but it didnt really fit in there when i looked.  

looks professionally made

any idea what it is?

tom

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