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I recently made a post here on the NewellGuru site that noted I was in Florida; it turns out Richard read said post and realized that I was close by.  He invited me to stop by and overnight in his driveway.  I decided to take him up on his offer.

BikeStuff (Bill Johnson) was there as well in his coach, so Richard and Rhonda's yard was quite literally filled with Newells.  I have to say that this stop at Richard's was the highlight of my Florida trip! Richard and Rhonda were fantastic hosts, feeding us all a great fajita dinner, and then coffee w/ muffins in the morning.  It was great chatting with Richard, and Bill too, sharing Newell tips, stories, etc.  I found Richard to be an absolute wealth of valuable Newell information!!!

Richard and Rhonda, THANK YOU!  Matt and I thoroughly enjoyed our stay!

Bill (Bikestuff), it was fantastic to meet you and put a face (and coach) with your name. 

To Richard & Rhonda, Bill, and any other NewellGuru member out there............I hope if you're ever in our neck of the woods you might allow us to repay the favor.  We are located in central Michigan and have plenty of room for Newells!

[attachment=5294][attachment=5293][attachment=5292]I have a Leece-Neville 2800LC Alternator (160 amp) for sale. The unit is new and includes the pulley. PM me if interested and we can work out a price.

https://reno.craigslist.org/rvs/d/40ftne...80566.html

Returning from our trip West we ran through some pretty cold weather most of the way. Temperatures in the 20's and in the 30's if we were lucky.

Running down the highway with engine temps just under 200 degrees my oil pressure stayed above 65 psi most of the trip.

Now that we are in slightly warmer Alabama temperatures (50 degrees) I took a test drive - oil pressure stayed in the high fifties.

I am running Rotella T 15w40 motor oil.

I am wondering if oil pressures that high are normal in that cold of weather. 

I can imagine all that oil in the oil pan never gets too warm. Wish I had thought to take a temperature reading of the oil pan with the temp gun but I didn't.

Kelly noticed a small puddle under the coach after coming back from a hike this morning.

Tracked it to the Dupree curb side dump valve. I can see a slow'ish drip coming from the bottom of the valve body. Of course, it's holding tank, so even a slow drip is not slow enough.

I found some old threads on replacing the gate and seal assembly. But I am concerned -- could that deformed seal cause a leak out the body? I'm thinking that the valve body must be cracked or something. I just dug up these threads and it's dark now, so I have not had a chance to take the valve apart to look closer. I am very much hoping that I do not have to replace the body - there's maybe 1/2" between the valve and the holding tank.

And of course it had to be the curb side dump. At least on the proper dump valve I could just use the gray water bypass to keep from leaking.

good morning from Galveston 

Our coach 385 is a 1995 model
Our first night in town i forgot to turn on AC compressor air was still holding around 70 Lbs
The next morning.....NOW

We have a new air leak. The AC compressor is running every 10/15 min
I have soaped everything (I hope) and found nothing.
The coach is setting level. If I turn off the compressor air drops to 50 lbs and stays there
For hours
Any ideas????

I've now had the string break on 3 of my 6 cellular shades. Thanks to Forest, et al for their notes on restringing:

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=1211

I thought I'd add my own notes here in case they help anyone.

For the first two, I've merely bought myself some time and am still using the original string. In all cases, the string broke near the bottom where it goes through the lower rail in the window. One thing I had noticed when dealing with a leaky window in the bedroom is that when Newell installed these, they brought the two ends of the string all the way to each other and connected them with a turnbuckle for tensioning. In reality, the blind only needs to have the string attached firmly to any point past the hole in the lower sill. This means that there's almost the entire width of the window worth of extra string on the original string installation. So as long as the string breaks near the bottom, you can take the blind apart just far enough to find the broken end of the string within the lower bar of the blind. Detach the other end from the bottom of the sill and pull the broken end until you have enough to reattach each end to the bottom of the sill separately. Your still on old string, but it will buy you some time. You can also then do the next trick below to restring with new string.

On my third blind, it broke far enough up that there was not enough string to make it down on both sides. But I was still able to get the broken end back through.

It occurred to me that I really did not want to have to pull the whole thing apart again and try to thread the new line through the cellular. So this morning, I basically sewed the broken end of the string to a new string. I melted the end of each line with a lighter to make sure that the thread did not just pull the braid apart. I doubled up my thread for strength and effectively butt-end sewed the two together. One pass through the original line and two passes through the new line. I tied a single half hitch to prevent it from coming apart and then pulled gently on the opposite string. I had the whole restring done in about 15 minutes. Didn't have to remove the blind from the window, even.

I am now planning to restring all of my blinds proactively this way - clearly they are all at the end of their lifespan and are just waiting until the least opportune time for me for them to fail.

Also note Forest's comments on rotation of the brass sleeve so that you don't have a followup failure:

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=1459

We are the proud owners of coach #125, a 1986 model. Has a new rariton water heater that works great with engine heat but not with electric. I must be missing something in the wiring/switching. Breakers in bedroom are good, switch at drivers panel is on. What am I missing??

Also have a leak in/under toilet. Have removed the toilet for a rebuild. I have searched the forum and have found good info on the toilet. That will be todays project.

Also ant ideas on interior primer and paint?? Pink must go.

We have made a couple of trips with the Newell so far. Awesome driver.

Thanks for now, Mark

http://panterracoach.com/coaches/2004-ne...ple-slide/

This one’s not too far from me. I can go put a set of eyes on it for someone if needed. 
Bryan

The fan blower motor in the front plenum heat exchanger died on me a few weeks back. I had gotten a replacement VDO blower motor, but when trying to transfer the blade wheel, I noticed that the hub in one was already cracked. While trying to extract it from the slightly rusty shaft on the original motor, it just came apart.

The blower fan blade unit was a Cary Products #900. Found a couple places that carry it for maybe $35. Also found that the following appear to be equivalents:
Victory 062-00183 ($24)
Danhard 16-2511 ($24)
Four Seasons 35528 ($11 from Amazon!)


Unfortunately I had some weird shipping madness from Amazon but after several weeks of no front blower in 16 degree night time temps, I can report that the Four Seasons unit is a direct replacement.

Note that I've read that some people have a wheel with a set screw and others with a clamp to hold the wheel on the shaft. This is the clamp variety. The Four Seasons also came with a new clamp.