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Fellow Gurus, after receiving a minor change to my orders it appears I am not going back to Japan. That being said I am preparing to list the Big Pink Bus, "Tom's girl" in the near future as boys are off to University and Heather is back to Japan and I am living in the bus down here in Altus OK. The bus has 10 new air bugs 3 new RH valves, new 6 packs front and rear, 3 roof iar co152,300 miles on the DD 8V92 two stroke that purrs like a kitten and roars up grades pulling my 20 foot car-hauler. Interior was remodeled by the Guru himself and it is really puuurty for a classic coach. If you know of anyone that is looking for a great classic this is the one. They can email me or join the group and IM me...I have more pics than Baskin Robbins...I hate to give her up but think it is the right thing to do since she needs to be enjoyed...I have lived in her for the past 6 months and have loved every minute...

Hi,

I have a question about my AGM life-line glass matt batteries. Yesterday i went down to pick up my coach from

having the HWH system fixed & all my coach batteries were dead. When i open the compartment all the battery

cases had been cracked open at the seams. The batteries are going on 4 years old. Does anyone know what would

cause this? Coach is plugged into 120vac 20amp outlet about 5 or 6 months a year.

Replacement cost $676.95 each plus labor (186lb ea). Sure would like to know what caused this.

down & out again.....

Mark
1999 Newell...

http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Total-Va...-115308919

$199,000

Are there any upper scale rv parks in the ouray silverton area? My wife is wanting a pool to lay out by. Also does anyone know if you can ride your atv from campgrounds in Bueno vista like you can in silverton area.

Nice to finally meet, great guy, beautiful place.. and he's doing an outstanding job refurbishing his Newell. The interior panels he's putting his toy barn should last a bazillion years at least... He's not really in the middle of a cornfield .. It just looks like it..

I didn't mean to hi-jack Alie and Jons thread on dash air but since it hit a "hot spot" with me I'll start a new thread. Dave Holmes went through my basement air units a couple years ago and it seems that each of them will blow cold. Also it appears that they are all dripping water from the evaporators. I think the problem is that they don't duct enough air to the front where all the solar gain is. Also, the thermostats for the two midship units are right across the aisle from each other in the kitchen area. You can see one of them on the wall to the left of the door in this pic. The other is to the right and the third is just to the back of the chair in the foreground. The salon area evaporator unit is in the cupboard just under where you see the coffee maker. I ducted that unit to the front to just above the passenger seat. I'm considering ducting the driver side unit (which now supplies the bunk and outlets just above refrigerator ) to the front and moving the thermostat (now located in the bunk) to the wall just aft of the side window.
Before I do all that I'll try to get Dave back to check the pressures....I should learn how to do that my self.

    Remember John Clarks 08 Newell he drove to the rally at Spearfish.  Someone back ended  it pretty good.

Does anyone have the filter number for my 93 coach. The one that's in there could be old enough to vote.

My 93 coach has dash air conditioning that has not worked since I've owned it for the past two years. I'm obsessive about things that don't work, it just bugs me to have something there that doesn't do anything.

There is 65psi refrigerant in the system on the compressor outlet side without the compressor running so there is Freon in the system, though insufficient to make the system work. Its R12 Freon was banned starting in 1994 and replaced with R134a. the system can be converted but the cost remains unknowable until I tear into it following getting the R12 removed.

I recall hearing several comments that these systems are inherently unreliable, but I don't recall and can't find the reasons why this would be the case. If anyone has direct experience working on this system and can give insight into its weaknesses I would appreciate it.

I recognize the benefits of running the central airs and generator (exercising the gen). The cost of getting the system up and running plus its reliability will be the deciding factors in my decision.

Recently, one of the hoses to the rear slide developed a leak. The leak caused the air bag to fail. The air bag was replaced in a different thread. My first thought was to crimp a new end on the leaking hose. Research suggested this would not be a long term fix. In fact when I got the hoses out, I discovered the leaking end had already been refitted once with a new fitting. 

As I dove into the hose replacement, I tried to gain access to the hose fittings via the bedroom. After taking the bed apart, both potties out, removing the windshield, radiator, transmission, and the generator it was clear that would not work. The first two calls to the mothership assured me there was access through the bedroom. The bedroom support mechanism is an aluminum structure that is affixed to the slide out. Under the support structure, the hydraulic cylinder is COMPLETELY enclosed in a square steel tube. The hoses exit from the square steel tube on the bottom and then through the bedroom floor into the wheelwell. There is about 3/8 inch between the bottom of the steel tube and the floor. I could only see the hoses using a flashlight and a mirror. 

I was stuck. 

I lay awake thinking about using a grinder and cutting holes in both the aluminum and steel tubes. I still didn't know how I would get the hoses through the opening. 

I called again and spoke to a tech who explained it all. Access is neither through the bedroom nor the bottom of the coach. You disconnect the cylinder from the steel square tube via two bolts under the bed, disconnect via one bolt on the bottom of the slide out, contract the cylinder, disconnect the hoses, and pull it out the channel from outside. I learned later all of this is explained on the HWH site  http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml19524.pdf

Before you get started deflate the seal, and looking in the channel you will see a piece of foam surrounding the ram. At the bottom of that foam is a 3/8 nut. Remove it, grab the black plastic base and slide it out. You don't have to tear it into ten pieces to remove it. He says, after the fact. 

I felt like a doofus, having been on the site for days but not finding this page. 

Let me add a couple of things that would have made this gone smoother. First. Getting the hoses down the square tube, turning 90 degrees and exiting through the wheel well is not fun. I had tied rope to the old hoses before I pulled out the cylinder. If I were doing this again, I would thread some cable or rope through a 1/4 JIS flare coupling, screw one each to each old hose and pull out with the cylinder. Th purpose of using the flare is that the rope or cable will be right in the center of the hose end, and it's tapered. 

I had rope but even with tying and taping it die not want to turn the angle  with the fitting. 

Second, the hoses are 1/8 Parker 540N. You won't find 1/8 hyd hose in smaller towns. I took a chance and had 1/4 hoses made at Napa. The hose will go through the hole OK, BUT the 1/4 hose ends are far larger than the the 1/8 ones. It was a real bear.

In hindsight, using 1/8 hose, and using the flare coupling would have made this a easier job.