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Heard they're supposed to work better on Phillips screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-9...996&sr=8-3

Who are ya?

need brake chamber (canister)  brand name and model Hoping someone may have this information already otherwise I’ll have to be pulled to find I am assuming, thanks Robert

A couple months back I realized that an HWH problem I had was a faulty relay down by the passenger footwell that is also tied into the horn and my rear camera.  The issue I'm now having is that when I hit a really bad pothole, etc. at times my camera will either just blink or it might even go dead for a few seconds.  Since I realized these were tied together I have attempted to use the horn at the time the camera is out and sure enough no horn and I also then know no HWH.

Questions are:

1.) I would assuming no power to HWH would mean that while driving so long as I didn't loose air I'd be ok for awhile, i.e. 3-4 hours until I get home?  That is if you don't mind driving without a rear camera or horn.

2.) What would a rough road do cause these intermittent challenges with the relay?

I have spare relays and now that I know what the issue is I can easily swap one out, but just trying to head off a much bigger issue since HWH is powered by that relay.

We had the pedestal power side transfer switch burn and we replaced it with a new Cutler/Hammer 60 amp contactor.  The new one will not automatically engage without help.  Once engaged everything appears to be working properly.  Could the new contactor be faulty or could there be something going on with the coach wiring that would cause it not to engage?

Also, when we have the breakers off to the front AC the lights and gauges to the voltage meters do not work. When we turn the breakers on they work. Why would that be?

Ok, so I've been through a few of these compressors in recent history and at nearly 1k a throw I'm wondering if there is a cheaper and/or more reliable alternative.  On one of the Prevost groups I'm on the prevailing opinion was that most have moved to a California compressor.  Something like this:

https://www.californiaairtools.com/contr.../cat-10tl/ 

Would love some feedback from those who know way more about what we actually need as I get the requirements could be different for us.  Looks to me like they have a few more that are similar tankless units, but this model in particular is the one that was recommended.

Coach # 722 For Sale. Reduced Price. https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2005-Ne...5025982402

Is now on consignment at MOT if anyone is looking for a nice Roadtrek class B.

https://www.motorhomesoftexas.com/Pre-ow...9?ref=list

Can anyone shoot me in the right direction on which check valve I would need at McMaster Carr?  This is in my bay with my 120V compressor.  Getting a little air bleeding back to the compressor when it's not running.  Looked like there were all kinds of options when I went to look it up.

Was working on a few odds and ends today and went to move the coach and it will not build air.  Thankfully I had a portable compressor so that I could float the coach to get it back into storage stall, but I'm at a complete loss as this is not something I've dealt with yet.  Calling Newell in the morning to see what advice they have, but thought I would put it out here too.

Most recent things i've done to the coach is recently had to replace drive axle rotor, calipers, pads.  Earlier today I realized my 120v compressor was bad as the shop that was doing my brake work let it sit there and run for hours on end while they had things torn apart...or at least that why I think it went bad.  Sucks as it was a brand new compressor.  I just never thought to shut that off when they were doing something like that as I figured there was check valve or something that would separate the system.