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  RAP1940 6 Pack Air Solenoids Rebuild Advice

Posted by: encantotom
05-24-2023, 02:43 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (8)

Howdy all,  this is about the hwh leveling system and not valid

I get calls and emails and texts several times a week on these valves.  as you know i sell rebuild kits for the valves that allow you to rebuild one entire 6 pack for about the cost or less of one single complete new valve.  

i wanted to share what i have learned about these simple valves and give some tips on rebuilding and installing them.  

what i have to say is based on helping alot of people with these things, and having rebuilt and installed them on many coaches.  

there are several ways these things can leak and fail.  that said,  these valves were meant for a zillion cycles.  a zillion cycles in a CLEAN air system, which our coaches are NOT.   

how can they fail.....

1.  the seal on the plunger inside the stem that rides on the orfice gets compromised causing the valve to leak.  causing the bags controlled by that valve to deflate.  the seal most likely gets compromised by dirt or rust or debris in the air system that gets inside the valve between the plunger seal and the orfice, causing to to keep it partially open and or scored.   the spring that holds the plunger on the orfice is only strong enough to seal it with no debris.  if you take the valve apart and see moisture and junk inside the valve body, it is possible that could, and i say could cause an issue.  

let me give you a scenario where the rear raise valve is leaking by alot.  you are driving and the raise and lower valves are not activated, but the rear passenger side raise is leaking.   now the passenger side rear bags are getting air from the valve leaking,  and the ride height travel valves are supplying air to the ride height valve and if the raise is leaking enough to overpower the ride height valve letting air out, then the coach will raise up on the rear passenger side while you are driving.   dont ask me how i know.....it happened to me.   

it is also possible that the plunger seal has gotten scored by the orfice such that it doesnt seal all the way when not static (with the spring holding it down, not energized)  the first picture below is a plunger with a seal that is fairly well deeply grooved.  the orifce has sharp edges to help it seal. 

another scenario is if you are parked overnight and you have leveled it and do not have it on auto level.   a 95 newell was here at my place this week where his passenger side rear would drop in a few hours.   i took the six pack apart and found that there was a problem with the lower valve on the passenger side.  it had a mangled outer O ring on the valve body that was letting air escape slowly.  that valve had been screwed into the manifold wayyyy too tight and it gouged the O ring.  since i had the valve apart, i also put new plungers and springs and all new o rings in it since it was apart.   these valves do not need to be much more than slightly snug when you install them.  the next picture is of the O ring that goes in the outer bottom of the valve body.  this is the one that was leaking.  

another scenario is what i have seen a number of times.   this happens when someone is installing the valve.   and comes from over tightening it.  the valve bodies i have seen in several materials.  the older ones are mostly brass.  the newer ones seem to be mostly aluminum.  both can have the same issue if you over tighten them and you would think that if you just rebuilt the valve that there would be nothing wrong.  

btw, all of this assumes you use some type of oring grease on the 2 orings that touch the six pack body from the valve.  

this next picture shows a valve body that has been overtightened.  it distorted the inner 0 ring groove such that it broke loose at the bottom and now has a hole that can leak by.  this one is brass.  it happens on the aluminum ones too.  

btw, the brass or aluminum valve bodies are exactly the same.   just a different supplier.  the stems that hold the plunger and spring are all the same.  the 4th picture is of a 6 pack that has valves that have the brass body and the ones in the travel position on the right are black aluminum.  

when you get into the early 90s and back they used KIP valves that had a coil that was completely covered with a metal case.  the parts are interchange with that valve and the newer style.  the next two pictures show that coil.  some of the early kip valves had a slightly larger orfice.  since the rear of my 02 comes up very slowly, i put a larger orfice valve in the raise position on both sides in the back. 

i have found that there was batch of valves that were labeled rap1940s that were completely different.  and i have found that they failed alot more.  they had a silver aluminum body and a different style plunger and spring and they do not work with any of the parts that i have.  i dont know that newell used them but other brands certainly did.  but i think for a very short time.  

these things are pretty simple.   as far as i have seen, the 6 packs in newells all have the same valve location placement.  so i have attached a highly refined sketch.  on all that i have seen the travel valves are nearest the firewall that the manifold is mounted too.  

o rings are cheap so always replace them.   the stem comes out easily is you have one of the spanner wrenches.  if not, then use a vice on the body and gently use pliers on the stem.  the stem is hollow for the plunger to go in so dont distort it.  

btw, NO o ring grease on the inner oring between the stem and valve body.  you dont want to junk up in the inside of the valve where the air flows.  

the coils almost never go bad.  

i take a felt tip maker an mark on the 6 pack manifold what each valve is doing.  just so it is easy to remember next time.  

well, thats my 2 cents worth.  remember every newell is different so apply common sense to if any of this for sure applies to your coach. 

foretravel used the same valves as did alot of the SOB's.   

i just tried to cover some of the things, there is certainly more scenarios.  

be sure to the get the right coils on in the right positions.....and use o ring grease....clean them up when you have them apart and dont overtighten when you put the valves back on.   

tom

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  Rivet repair at home

Posted by: Jack Houpe
05-24-2023, 12:09 PM
Forum: Rivet Inspection and Repair Procedures
- Replies (10)

I thought I would start a thread rather than ad to the old one. I got all the trim pieces off, if you read the PDF file from Newell it states some coaches had mastic holding the trim pieces on and mine is one of those coaches, I do have the new disks on hand I went and picked them up yesterday morning from Newell and they gave them to me for free, met the new parts lady she is very nice and looks to be adsorbing as much information as she can. ALL of the rivets on the coach between the front and rear slide are popped out you can pick them out with your fingers, the only thing holding them in is a dab of silicon rubber, all the rivets in the short piece of trim behind the rear slide are popped, many of the rivets going around the rear slide are loose. None of the rivets on the slide are loose, I don't think it necessary to add rivets to the slide as there really isn't any stress there but I'm open to comments.

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  Suspension air bags

Posted by: kendogg
05-24-2023, 08:57 AM
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
- Replies (8)

Hi everybody, first post.  I've posted in the Newell Owners FB group, but wanted to come here as well.  



I'm looking for new air springs.  I haven't had a bag failure yet, but I'm trying to be proactive.  I haven't checked the p/n for the rears yet, or to see if they're even the same, but the fronts are a Firestone 9447/Goodyear 1R11-066.  I'm having a VERY hard time finding replacements, and apparently others have as well. Does anybody happen to know if there is an alternative, maybe with a different air fitting or something that can work?  Looking for solutions now before it's too late.  Thanks!

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  Auto bay door lock failure to lock.

Posted by: buzztrapbag
05-24-2023, 04:20 AM
Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
- Replies (4)

I am the new owner of coach 787
We are struggling with the auto locking system. 
It does not lock or unlock.  Is there a controller or fuse.  If so where is it .

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  Hot water lines acid treatment

Posted by: Doug Musick
05-23-2023, 11:07 AM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (4)

So my hot water flow and pressure left something to be desired and was far worse than what I got from the cold water valves.  I disassembled the shower valve and cleaned it with no noticable improvement.  I replaced the vanity fixture (wouldn't shut off and couldn't get parts) but no improvement in flow.

So the likely culprit was calcification of the hot water coils in the Aquahot, or possibly a blockage somewhere else in the main hot water feeder line.  I've read somewhere this can be an issue with the Aqauhots and sometimes results in replacement of the Aquahot (ouch).  Household tankless hot water heaters have the same issue and manufacturers recommend routine acid flushes (usually annually).  In reality your water quality is a big factor in how fast the problem develops if at all.

Anyway I cut my water lines going in and out of the Aquahot, after first shutting off the Aquahot, they looked good, no calcification.  I then put 6 gallons of clear vinegar in a cooler.  I disconnected one of my 12v water pumps.  I attached a suction line to it and dropped the end in the vinegar.  I then attached a line from the Aquahot, hot water (out) line long enough to flow into the cooler.  I then plumbed the pump out (pressure) line to the Aguahot in (cold) line.  I then turned on the pump, checked for leaks, and drank a couple of beers while I let the vinegar circulate for a few hours.

I then drained the vinegar and flushed the loop with clean water a couple of times.  Then disconnected the pump and reattached the cut water lines.

I now have double the flow and better pressure.

I will continue doing this as preventative maintenance once every 1 to 3 years.

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  12v Water Pump Experience

Posted by: Doug Musick
05-23-2023, 10:06 AM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (12)

Our coach doesn't have a 120v water pump and I rarely hook up to city water.  Our normal mode of operation is to use the 12V pumps exclusively and to fill fresh tank when we empty the black tank.  This works well as most campgrounds we stay at we usually don't have a sewer connection.

Our coach has two 12v water pumps and that design was original to the coach as each pump has its own switch above the microwave.

The problem we had is that the two pumps with the coach when we bought it ( big Flojet models)  both went bad within a few months.  They were only rated at 45 psi and I couldn't get a Flojet with higher psi without sacrificing flow rate.  So I then bought two similar Shurflo pumps that had a high flow rates (>5gpm) and 60 psi.  They both failed in short time and I had one replaced under warranty.

In my next attempt I tried the Remco Aqaujet variable speed pumps.  After over a year and a half, and more than 12,000 gallons of water they are working great with no problems.  Actually most of that has all been on one pump as I only have one turned on.  Couldn't really see an improvement in flow rate or pressure with both of them on.

So this is a plug if you need a new 12v pump.  Another nice thing with this set up is it always works with any power source I'm using and doesn't use as much battery power as a 120v pump would when running off the batteries.  No pump selection management needed.

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  City water problem

Posted by: B and C
05-23-2023, 06:06 AM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (2)

Sitting in Newton Iowa on our way to HWH.  Hooked up to city water at the KOA and get very little flow from all the faucets and shower.  The pressure at the city faucet is very good.    Switched to the tank and pump, everything works fine.  Checked the cold water filter and it is clean.  Any ideas on where to start looking?  Thanks.

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  Keep blowing 120V compressor head gaskets

Posted by: 360
05-21-2023, 08:27 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (44)

I'm kind of stumped.  So I had blown what I believe is a head gasket on a third compressor.  I tried to blame the other ones on overheating due to a failing of another component or the like, but this time I'm really scratching my head.

So last Thursday afternoon I replaced yet another compressor and I also replaced the a check valve that is just above that little module that releases the pressure back against the head.  Replaced that check valve as I had a little bit of air seeping back towards the compressor.  I absolutely have the check valve facing the right direction of basically air being input into the coach.  So I take the coach home, got all loaded up and washed up and noticed it came on a couple times over the course of 6 hours or so which seemed about right based upon how much it had been leaking down in recent history.  Went out in the morning and felt compressor and it was just barely warm as if it had run maybe an hour or so prior so I figured things were heading in the right direction.  Drove 5 hours to my destination and was there a couple hours and was back at the coach and heard compressor come on.  Again thought that seemed about right expept after about 10 minutes it was still running.  I go out and it's obviously super hot at that point and I also noticed yet again I had massive amounts of air escaping in between the head and the compressor in the port just to the right on the exhaust.  Same thing happened on the last two compressors.  

Any suggestions on what could cause something like this to intermittently happen would be greatly appreciated.  Compressor had maybe an hour of run time on it.

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  Airbag Desperately NEEDED 876mb 73453 Contitech HELP

Posted by: [email protected]
05-19-2023, 08:58 AM
Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
- Replies (4)

So I've heard such great things about Newell Coaches so I just bought coach 719 its an 05 w the detroit diesel 60 series.. Needs some TLC but was supposed to be 100% turnkey ready to roll.  It rolled for 167 miles before I blew out the front Passenger side airbag.. sounded like a shotgun..  Had it towed to a nearby courtesey lot and its currently up on blocks. Removed the airbag but cannot find one no matter where I look 3 days now been unable to locate a single airbag..    So a guy that goes on here alot asked me hey why don't you post on there that you need one some of these guys have spares and I can buy it and replace it with a new one... Contitech/Continental did say that they would be able to make new ones in about 10 days..  I need something to get me out of the parking lot and will replace it with new or pay to use your spare will my new ones come in and buy you a new one too.. WHATEVER is needed somewhat hate to admit that im desperate over here to figure out a solution.. ANY help is so very appreciated.. Thank YOU

Brian Pritchard
Newell Coach 719
Niles Ohio
Bus is in Florida
my cell 330-503-7246

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  Exterior mirrors

Posted by: Figz
05-18-2023, 03:33 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (7)

Hello everyone, I have an 06 Coach 776. My exterior chrome mirrors are starting to break down. I’m looking for replacement but they come out of Spain and I have left several messages with them and got no response. Has anyone ever changed out exterior mirrors before? Could I use the hanging mirrors that Newell uses now with a little body work and paint? Thank you, Mike

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