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Transmission Code P2714, will drive in 1st gear only.  Wiring seems OK, unplugged transmission wiring, no bent pins, etc.  There is an Allison approved shop in Bridgeport about 10 miles away.  We'll plan to start at daybreak Sunday.  It will do about 15 MPH.

Anyone with a magical solution?  If a parts place had the speed sensor I'd try that.

I will call the Newell boys on Monday as not an emergency but thought you gurus might save seen this before.

The top of the slide is coming in about 1/2” too far.  IF I stop it where it should be it does not think it is secure.   Looks like a stop is out of whack.  

See attached photo

Thank you in advance

Hello all, 
     Has anyone ever contemplated replacing the front and rear overhead ac units with a mini split in the basement on a classic coach?? 

Or have I lost my mind for considering?

     My coach is a 1980 classic 37 foot (no slides for y’all whipper snappers) lol. I have a free basement compartment just to the aft of the curb side center entrance. Removing the loud old top singular ac units and replacing them with 14” power vents and having a central unit in the basement for ac for a mature classic coach …wouldn’t that be awesome using 21st century technology?. Is it possible??? Thanks in advance for your replies. I probably have 900 to 1000 cubic feet I’m guessing in the classic. 
Thanks in advance for your replies.

Hello, I am looking at a used 1994 tag axle coach. 90k miles, 60 series Detroit (yes 60 series). No slides. Sun light leaked at one point but was repaired. There also appeared to be active or prior water damage above the passenger headliner nearest the windshield. I noticed wood rot. 

Currently the batteries are dead but the owner states it will run. Batteries are newer Dekas. Yep We plan to jump it when I return. 

Interior is 8/10 with the water related issues above being the noticeable problems. 

Exterior, there is mild corrosion with about a 3/8” hole in the rear body panel / paint peel along with bubbling in the same panel area. 

There are many unknowns until the unit is up and running. It’s sat about 8-10 years. 

Tires are like new, but they are older. 

What kind of value do you folks see in something like I am describing? It’s a gorgeous coach overall.

I have combed through all the original paperwork including maintenance records from the first owner and limited from the current and second owner. No significant issues.

I have a weird intermittent coolant leak at the top of my S60 engine. It doesn’t usually leak when engine is running. I’ve taken my closet floor up and there are some hoses up there, a few fittings screwed into things and a valve with a knob (like water spigot). 

My big plan was to get a kit from autozone where you put on a special radiator cap and pump it to pressurize the system and see where my leak is. That all went south when I realized I could not fit the special radiator cap inside the little door on the side of the coach. 

Any ideas on how to easily pressurize the system to find this leak?

Thanks
Alan

 
We have a strange issue with our electric shades.

When we went to lower the shades tonight, the PS Mid Shade over the couch and the PS rear shade at the dinette do not operate correctly.  Both shades went down about half way and the right side of the shade stopped, while the left side of the shade continued to go down.  They stopped correctly and then would retract.

There are no obstructions in the tract of either shade.  All other shades work correctly

Does anyone have a suggestion?

Is there a way to "re-set"the shades.

Ken

I have an 1980 classic coach. #3 breaker

     These are Thin breakers with one upper and one lower circuit. So two breakers fit in the the regular slot protecting four circuits. My top circuit switch doesn’t energize anymore so it’s definitely a defective breaker. 
    Does anyone know what brand would have been supplied in 1979 in a coach classic?  
Or if these are still possible to get one? Or two? 
I’ll be removing the panel cover and removing the defective breaker. And posting photos… etc… etc… hopefully it will not be an obscure brand. If anyone has any information it would be helpful. Especially for the rear ac unit in need of a working circuit. Thanks in advance 
mike

So I installed Pioneer Mini Splits. My SCS units bit the dust. I opted for YN020GMF122M2E a 20kBTU outdoor unit and 2 12kBTU concealed duct models.    
I installed the two concealed duct units inside the current air return plenum. I wanted to make sure I had two separate cooling zones just like the original AC setup. I also wanted to keep the Aquahot for a second method of heat.     
I reused the duct to the rear of the coach      and 4" round insulated duct from Lowe's for the front. I also reused the thermostat wiring so I didn't have to pull new wires.
Each cassette has a manual thermostat I mounted in the curb side bay inline with the new thermostat inside the coach. I mounted the new indoor thermostats above the old ones.
I used 1" duct board from Lowe's to make ducts and close in the cassettes. I used a 30AMP lighted switch to control power at the outdoor unit     and the OEM circuit breakers in the panel in the wardrobe. In the curb side basement I wired up two outlets with the wires from that SCS unit.
The units came right on and blew good and cold. The issue I have is getting heat out of the basement when running the AC. We camped out one weekend in the Florida sun and the unit would not keep up with the heat. While stopped I kept the streetside door open which helped but wasn't enough. On the way home there wasn't enough airflow to remove the heat from the outside unit.
I added an electric fan to suck air out of the streetside basement door.      I controlled this fan with a switch mounted on the wall in the bay. I added a 120vac triggered relay to control the fan from the breaker box inside the coach. This way I wouldn't have to go outside to shut the fan off if I turned the AC off.
This fan wasn't enough so I installed another fan on the curb side to draw air in through that basement door. Both fans are controlled in the bay with different switches and the common 120vac triggered relay. Also, the curbside basement floor vent hole for the SCS unit is covered up now. The streetside basement floor vent for the SCS unit was covered with a grate and I use that to drain the condensation.
After a few hot days in the 90s I realized this wasn't performing well enough. I added two more 4" ducts to the front cassette, through a 4" to 2 1/2" Y connectors through the Aquahot vents below the cabinet under the salon window. This helped quite a bit. I reconfigured the duct for the bottom cassette and you can see the results here.     
I think I need to add additional duct from the rear cassette to help that work more efficiently. Doubling the front cassette ducts seemed to help that run better and improve cooling.
I shot my infrared thermometer in various places in the coach and I am shocked at the temps I found. The windows on the sun side are 110* on the outside and 98* with the shade down on the inside. The side of the coach was 130* below the passenger window, 125* on the black window cover on the outside. Inside it was 84* behind the roll up blind and the windshield curtain. I am looking at making body window covers for the rest of the coach to block the sun from coming in and boiling the inside.
Rubber freon lines are now available. They weren't when I ordered my units. I would definitely pay to use them instead of the copper lines.
This is a work in progress so there will be some changes and improvements in the future.
Thank you Richard for putting your eyes on my project, thoughts and ideas. And for outing me too...
Thanks to the others who have posted their mini split installs and those who responded to them. 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1...sp=sharing Here is a link to the folder of photos I've taken so far.

Hi there Newell community we are traveling to ND presently 6/12/23 and yesterday saw a light brown Newell with touch of blue pulling into the first Information center as you enter SD on I-29 N
Were just to fast and in the  left lane to pull over and say hi. Was curious who might it be now - seldomly see fellow Newell’s in the wild???

Our aquahot was not working on diesel, the control board had filled with water and been that way for years so it was not possible to repair. I decided to purchase Chinese diesel water heater and experiment with it when I bought this it was $286 so they have gone up.

https://www.amazon.com/ZAWAYINE-Parking-...172&sr=8-5

I first hooked the water heater in a loop on the fresh water side, the little pump would circulate water through the aquahot and to the hot water manifold on the fresh water but it would heat up very quickly and the high temp limit of the diesel heater would shut it down at 192 F. Next I circulated the coolant from the engine feed to the aquahot and it worked but would take 30-40 minutes to heat the aquahot so after searching through the threads I found Richards post about his solution to hot water and used his idea of a flat plate heat exchanger in series with the diesel heater plumbed into the engine feed. The flat plate heat exchanger is first in line then the aquahot is second and the results are amazing. The Chinese diesel water heater has a remote control so you can turn it on via wifi and it will get to 120 F in 5 minutes and it will supply hot water to the hot water manifold continuously as long as the heater is on. It also will heat the engine as its tied into that circuit. I don't think it big enough to heat the coach and I never planned on that. I used the exhaust of the aquahot for the exhaust of the Chinese diesel heater.