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Found this baby sitting on a Trucking company property in Belton, Texas.  Owned by the companies owner and has no clue about Newells or what he has..... (I quickly brought him up to speed!)  I've guided him to this wonderful group....he has a few problems to take care of before it gets back on the road!                                        

My 1986 coach drivetrain whines when I let off the gas or when going downhill. Should I be concerned?

To set the context of the question, a current thread suggesting the carrying of impacts and 600lb torque wrenches has got me thinking.  I'm new to the Class A world, having spent a long time in boats (I'm wrapping up 2 months living aboard while fishing as I write this), less time pulling boats on trailers (42' go fast on 50' Myco), and two seasons pulling a 5th wheel.  I generally turn my own wrenches and pull my own wires when I can but I'm a bit overwhelmed when reading about all the issues that may arise (for instance, while I carried an impact in the trailer, I don't carry a spare with the coach so it didn't cross my mind and I don't have a clue as to how to crib so as to safely crawl underneath).  Our trips vary from several hours between racing venues to an annual loop from the Midwest to the Rockies and down to I-10 to winter back in Florida.

Having set the context, what do you carry by way of tools/spares? 

Thank you in advance for your replies.

R/S,

db

Hello everyone,
My name is AJ, French native (please forgive my English). My husband and I just bought a used Newell. I am a little obsessed with cleaning. I was super excited to know our new to us Newell came with a central vac. The ex owner told us they never used it. So my question is do you use your central vac? If not why not and what do you use to clean?

Our driver side tag axle had sheared off studs due to horrid road conditions on I93 in AZ heading from Las Vegas, down to I 40 (which is only marginally better, AZ roads are the worst in the nation). After searching for days trying to find a shop that could help, we found this shop, limped over here and they got us in first thing in the morning. I can't recommend this shop enough. 

The mechanics here are knowledgeable and highly skilled. They don't waste time, or give you the run around. They are up front with their prices and give you an estimate before starting the job so you know what you are in for. If you are in Flagstaff, and can limp over to Galup, NM., do so. It will save you thousands, and the work will be done correctly and honestly.

The only con I can think of isn't their fault, but their vendors have issues getting parts shipped directly, so if they need to order parts it might delay you a couple of days, but this isn't in any way the fault of the shop.

It is obvious from their work ethic that their main concern is getting you on the road as quickly and safely as possible. They are Detroit Diesel and CAT certified. Their hourly rate is 144/hr. Everywhere we contacted in Flagstaff was 195/hr. And we left several places there because their mechanics were just standing around talking and smoking, but not working. 

We are looking at an $1800 estimate for a new rim, 10 new lugs, 10 new studs, tire mount and balance. (We have since ordered the 1" Impact, and torque wrench so we can self rescue in the future.)

We are having problems (recurring) with the PS salon slide. Basically it will creep out within hours OR could be days after changing solenoids.  It has had 6 new ones in 18 months. It also would try to extend when opening other slides. Talked to Newell and they said go to HWH.  We got here on the 23rd and they replaced the solenoid. Said they figured it was fixed due to improper replacement of prior solenoids.  We parked at their facility and opened other 3 slides. Took the toad and left for the holiday weekend (they completely lock down over the weekends - no in or out).  Returned early Tuesday am and slide had not moved for 7 days.  Started coach, put in travel mode and started to bring in rear DS slide.  Saw movement on PS #4 slide.  Got HWH tech over and we brought in slides with more movement on PS slide.  In case, you are wondering, there is no seal on the #4 slide.  The last time it creeped out while operating another slide, it did not stop and rolled the seal out to the point of tearing out the air input line so the seal was removed and the air shutoff to the seal. Anyway back into shop tore apart the slide interior and found a very very small leak at a connection which was tightened. Tested everything good.  Put back together and left for Texas.  Stopped for fuel a fews later and bottom of slide had crept out a couple of inches.  Shut down for the night and as instructed retracted the slide....when retracted and motor stopped it immediately crept out 3 inches all the way around. Next morning when closing other slides that slide crept out to full open position.  I talked with HWH and got slide retracted. We drove back to HWH and are now waiting. They are baffled.  I am beginning to think there is a problem with the manifold...maybe a hairline crack at that solenoid position that leaks very slightly when pressurized or even opens slightly when road travel.  Looking for any thoughts to discuss with them.  Thanks!!

I sure could use some help.  One the road from Texas to Wisconsin.  #184 wide body.  After shower/bathroom at entrance of bedroom, my carpet is wet about a 2ft diameter.  Use 6 towels to soak up, but still wet.  Water pump is off, pulled drawer from closet....not wet (expecting busted water line).  Ope d cabinet in bathroom....dry.  I have basement ac and those are up front.  Drain line for AC that I saw drained out by fuel tank.  Is there a condensation line that I missed?  Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance y'all.

Paul Smith
#184

I am going to relate something that I am experiencing and what I have done. One, to gather input from others. Two, to check my sanity. 

I replaced all the brake shoes and pads in 2020, I was very happy with the braking power. As we started our summer journey, I almost tagged a car when they pulled in front of me, and braked sharply. I had previously noted that my braking did not seem to be as it once was when the pads were new. 

I went through a system check, including checking the diaphragms for leaks, ensuring slack adjusters were set correctly, and even disconnected brake hoses and checked the air pressure at the hose during a full on brake application. Nothing seemed amiss. 

I have plenty of windshield time, so even a slowly clocked CPU like mine eventually grinds to a conclusion. I recalled a thread on another forum some 15 yrs ago where a guy said not to run with your jakes on all the time. He said, the pads glaze from the light application. Well, I do run with the jakes all the time. Things that make you go hmmmmm. 

I wasn’t about to turn the jakes off while cruising the interstate with questionable stopping distance, but I started turning them off at every off ramp. And I made some aggressive stops on purpose, informing the passenger side alarm system first of course. After about 10 of these aggressive stops without the jakes, my brakes are back to what I knew them to be. 

I am going to keep an eye on this and report back results over a longer time period. I still will run the jakes while cruising the concrete because I want all the stopping I can possibly get. I will also turn the jakes off and aggressively stop exiting the ramps to see if they continue to improve. 

Don’t take this as gospel, because it is a data set of one. I am curious if you have had the same experience OR you have ever heard of such a thing.

Good evening, I am a new owner of 1990 #243.
Trying to level the coach but can’t seem to figure it out?

I think most of you have the same color chassis which on mine looks like a greenish gray. I found this paint at my local autobody paint supply shop. What an amazing match to the frame paint Newell used.  Wanted to share in case there is another person foolish like myself to bother touching up areas that will get messed up from road debris!