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  1. Newell Gurus
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  Body shop man

Posted by: BusNit
05-30-2023, 04:31 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (22)

Since I have the headlights out, I realized the peeling clear coat looks like doggy poop. I watched some YouTube videos and for some reason, I feel like a pro or is it too much knowledge and video confidence says I can fix this? Anyway, I bought some 2k clear coat which is a spray can that has two part mix. You press the bottom valve down of the can using its cap and it releases an internal hardener. No biggie, I can handle this. YouTube university says get some grey 3m scotch pads and start removing the clear. Sounds good in theory but seems I really can't feather down the remaining edge. On top of that, the base coat is all fongoliated from the sun and sanding. I will see if the paint store can mix up some base in the metallic tan for me. I went from backyard mechanic to backyard body shop man. I'm not looking for perfection, just something that won't look like a jalopy. Mirrors and front nose are worst offenders. We do not have the money to repaint this thing so this is the best option to keep it looking halfway decent. Looks like I'll need more than two cans of the clear too...

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  New to Newell #1746

Posted by: 1746
05-30-2023, 01:58 PM
Forum: Please introduce yourself
- Replies (12)

Hello

We are the proud 2nd owner of 1746!  Looking foward to being a member of the group.     

JD and Kathy and Cooper the golden doodle

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  Valid leveling system help needed

Posted by: LionStar
05-30-2023, 10:47 AM
Forum: Help, I need help ASAP
- Replies (5)

I need some help/advice. I have 2004 coach #697 with Valid Trueline leveling. On our last driving leg, the system indicated that it has "lost communication" with the rear sensors. Got to the park we are staying at okay, but could not level the coach using the Valid pad. Site is *fairly* level so are living with it. Right rear side sat down almost all the way. I called Valid - the tech wants to try to do some diagnostics on the sensor module. I have jacked up the right rear, I can see where the sensor is, but not sure I can get to it. I have tried resetting the system, still shows the fault and won't allow any action for the rear of the coach. We are in Colorado, just outside of Gunnison - about 1000 miles from home city. Have an appointment with Newell in Oklahoma in about 2 weeks for some other issues, but need to be able to get it there. Looking for any advice or if anyone knows any tech near our location that could help. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

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  Brackets for corners of slide

Posted by: Jack Houpe
05-30-2023, 05:48 AM
Forum: Slides
- Replies (24)

I was asked by Richard if I had made these brackets to prevent the top of the slide from leaning to far inward and I said I did not and didn't all Newells have them and of course he said no but not a bad idea. Since then a few people have noticed pictures of them on some other thread and have asked about them, all I can say is they work and it makes it easy for the locking pins to align with the holes. I digitized the bracket and created a DXF file for anyone who wants to take to a waterjet shop and have them cut out of 1/4" aluminum plate or you can buy some plate and cut out with a jig saw like these have been cut. 

Well you'll have to email me to get the file, I can't upload it here.

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  New driving lights

Posted by: BusNit
05-29-2023, 08:30 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (10)

I had bought my coach with dim/flicker headlights and a lack of driving lights aside from their remnants of dangling wires. Today I installed new LED driving lights and while doing so removed a badly damaged generator air scoop under the coach. I straightened that out and welded in reinforcements on the inside. (Might help if I hit a tire carcass) With all this going on, I decided to remove the headlights and ordered 4 new ones. I can attest that this was not a fun job to remove the headlight cradle due to the limited access of two bolts on each side. Either way, it wore me out and I have them removed and headed to powder coat shop tomorrow.

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  New 90mm Headlights

Posted by: 360
05-29-2023, 12:27 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (2)

Like many I’ve gotten spoiled my the LED’s in our cars and find the coach headlights lacking.  Was thinking about a set from JW Speaker as I know they are a popular upgrade and/or the OEM choice from several manufacturers.  

If I went that direction I was also pondering the ones with DRL rings, but not sure if that would look good or be a little weird?

Would love all thoughts or insight.

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  what to paint over rusted metal with

Posted by: encantotom
05-27-2023, 08:55 PM
Forum: Other Stuff
- Replies (9)

we have a cabin in northern az.  my shed has seen better days.  i am building doors for it, but i need to paint it.  the roof is totally rusted and a bit of the sides are.  

i have looked alot and it is not clear what to do without spending a fortune or wire brushing the whole thing.  the best i will do is to pressure wash it.  

in the end i will paint it a pale green to match the house most likely.

suggestions that wont break the shed bank?

roof is 250sq ft and total of outside is about 400sq ft.

thanks

tom

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  Need Michelin 365 tires asap

Posted by: pairodice
05-25-2023, 03:47 AM
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
- Replies (10)

It’s finally time to replace the Michelins on the front of the coach. Where can I source some for a decent price please?

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  RAP1940 6 Pack Air Solenoids Rebuild Advice

Posted by: encantotom
05-24-2023, 02:43 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (8)

Howdy all,  this is about the hwh leveling system and not valid

I get calls and emails and texts several times a week on these valves.  as you know i sell rebuild kits for the valves that allow you to rebuild one entire 6 pack for about the cost or less of one single complete new valve.  

i wanted to share what i have learned about these simple valves and give some tips on rebuilding and installing them.  

what i have to say is based on helping alot of people with these things, and having rebuilt and installed them on many coaches.  

there are several ways these things can leak and fail.  that said,  these valves were meant for a zillion cycles.  a zillion cycles in a CLEAN air system, which our coaches are NOT.   

how can they fail.....

1.  the seal on the plunger inside the stem that rides on the orfice gets compromised causing the valve to leak.  causing the bags controlled by that valve to deflate.  the seal most likely gets compromised by dirt or rust or debris in the air system that gets inside the valve between the plunger seal and the orfice, causing to to keep it partially open and or scored.   the spring that holds the plunger on the orfice is only strong enough to seal it with no debris.  if you take the valve apart and see moisture and junk inside the valve body, it is possible that could, and i say could cause an issue.  

let me give you a scenario where the rear raise valve is leaking by alot.  you are driving and the raise and lower valves are not activated, but the rear passenger side raise is leaking.   now the passenger side rear bags are getting air from the valve leaking,  and the ride height travel valves are supplying air to the ride height valve and if the raise is leaking enough to overpower the ride height valve letting air out, then the coach will raise up on the rear passenger side while you are driving.   dont ask me how i know.....it happened to me.   

it is also possible that the plunger seal has gotten scored by the orfice such that it doesnt seal all the way when not static (with the spring holding it down, not energized)  the first picture below is a plunger with a seal that is fairly well deeply grooved.  the orifce has sharp edges to help it seal. 

another scenario is if you are parked overnight and you have leveled it and do not have it on auto level.   a 95 newell was here at my place this week where his passenger side rear would drop in a few hours.   i took the six pack apart and found that there was a problem with the lower valve on the passenger side.  it had a mangled outer O ring on the valve body that was letting air escape slowly.  that valve had been screwed into the manifold wayyyy too tight and it gouged the O ring.  since i had the valve apart, i also put new plungers and springs and all new o rings in it since it was apart.   these valves do not need to be much more than slightly snug when you install them.  the next picture is of the O ring that goes in the outer bottom of the valve body.  this is the one that was leaking.  

another scenario is what i have seen a number of times.   this happens when someone is installing the valve.   and comes from over tightening it.  the valve bodies i have seen in several materials.  the older ones are mostly brass.  the newer ones seem to be mostly aluminum.  both can have the same issue if you over tighten them and you would think that if you just rebuilt the valve that there would be nothing wrong.  

btw, all of this assumes you use some type of oring grease on the 2 orings that touch the six pack body from the valve.  

this next picture shows a valve body that has been overtightened.  it distorted the inner 0 ring groove such that it broke loose at the bottom and now has a hole that can leak by.  this one is brass.  it happens on the aluminum ones too.  

btw, the brass or aluminum valve bodies are exactly the same.   just a different supplier.  the stems that hold the plunger and spring are all the same.  the 4th picture is of a 6 pack that has valves that have the brass body and the ones in the travel position on the right are black aluminum.  

when you get into the early 90s and back they used KIP valves that had a coil that was completely covered with a metal case.  the parts are interchange with that valve and the newer style.  the next two pictures show that coil.  some of the early kip valves had a slightly larger orfice.  since the rear of my 02 comes up very slowly, i put a larger orfice valve in the raise position on both sides in the back. 

i have found that there was batch of valves that were labeled rap1940s that were completely different.  and i have found that they failed alot more.  they had a silver aluminum body and a different style plunger and spring and they do not work with any of the parts that i have.  i dont know that newell used them but other brands certainly did.  but i think for a very short time.  

these things are pretty simple.   as far as i have seen, the 6 packs in newells all have the same valve location placement.  so i have attached a highly refined sketch.  on all that i have seen the travel valves are nearest the firewall that the manifold is mounted too.  

o rings are cheap so always replace them.   the stem comes out easily is you have one of the spanner wrenches.  if not, then use a vice on the body and gently use pliers on the stem.  the stem is hollow for the plunger to go in so dont distort it.  

btw, NO o ring grease on the inner oring between the stem and valve body.  you dont want to junk up in the inside of the valve where the air flows.  

the coils almost never go bad.  

i take a felt tip maker an mark on the 6 pack manifold what each valve is doing.  just so it is easy to remember next time.  

well, thats my 2 cents worth.  remember every newell is different so apply common sense to if any of this for sure applies to your coach. 

foretravel used the same valves as did alot of the SOB's.   

i just tried to cover some of the things, there is certainly more scenarios.  

be sure to the get the right coils on in the right positions.....and use o ring grease....clean them up when you have them apart and dont overtighten when you put the valves back on.   

tom

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  Rivet repair at home

Posted by: Jack Houpe
05-24-2023, 12:09 PM
Forum: Rivet Inspection and Repair Procedures
- Replies (10)

I thought I would start a thread rather than ad to the old one. I got all the trim pieces off, if you read the PDF file from Newell it states some coaches had mastic holding the trim pieces on and mine is one of those coaches, I do have the new disks on hand I went and picked them up yesterday morning from Newell and they gave them to me for free, met the new parts lady she is very nice and looks to be adsorbing as much information as she can. ALL of the rivets on the coach between the front and rear slide are popped out you can pick them out with your fingers, the only thing holding them in is a dab of silicon rubber, all the rivets in the short piece of trim behind the rear slide are popped, many of the rivets going around the rear slide are loose. None of the rivets on the slide are loose, I don't think it necessary to add rivets to the slide as there really isn't any stress there but I'm open to comments.

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