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I had been pricing around server racks for my lithium batteries. Seems they want part of your leg along with a mortgage application to buy one of these thin metal Chinese made things. After much mulling it around, I decided to make one. I visited my favorite steel supplier in Phoenix and went shopping in their "Remnants" section where metal is sold by the pound. I spent $47 for the framing and another $75 for the honey comb screen to make the doors. I started Friday morning and wrapped it up today. Happy Easter by the way! I built it in modular sections so I can handle transport and installation on my own. It is loaded in the Jeep for tomorrow's trip to the Powder coat shop. I love how solid it is and is the look I was after. Front door is about 4" away from the front of the battery posts and the door has no way of swinging in too far as I welded in some stops in case heavy items crash into the front of the doors. There will still be room in the bay for folding chairs and such.

www.industrialmetalsupply.com

I removed my house batteries in favor of Lithiums. This was in a small side compartment. Both slides work smoothly. It weight quite a bit. Come say hello in East Mesa, AZ. I would hate to toss this as it is well made.

I have a non working Magnasine inverter. I never looked into what it needs as we decided to go solar. Might need a board? I also have the keypad for it as well. It's heavy to ship and I am located in East Mesa, Arizona.

Really don't want to toss it as these are great units. It was installed in my coach in 2012. I believe it is MS2812

I failed to winterize my coach before the cold snap that hit north Texas a couple months ago. The results being a blown water filter, manifold (just replaced with PEX) and the shower head is dripping water eventhough the valve is turned off. Also, the handle refuses to rotate. So my question is, do I need to remove the wall to get to this valve? I'm assuming if so, it's the shower side. Are there hidden screws somewhere or is it all caulking holding it in?

Every several days, we find a small bird that has somehow found their way inside the coach. I gently show them the door and clean up the generous gifts left behind and sure enough another one comes along to enjoy the amenities.
Has anyone else experienced similar?
Where else can I look to find their entry point?

TJ came to my place for us to do his slide seal.  he has posted some info under wittmann slide seal party.  
pestes has a write up on doing his at a shop using a fork lift.  i thought i would do a writeup with some pictures to show what we did on TJ's.  
for those that dont know, there are two hydraulic side setups on our vintage newells.  as best i can tell, up to 2001 or 2002 was one setup and after that a different config on the slide rams.   my 2002 and tonys 2003 which we did have a different setup than tj's 98.  the difference is how the rams are connected.  there are 2 rams to push the slide in and out.  on the 2002 and up (maybe 2001) to be able to disconnect the rams you do it by dropping the floor and unscrewing the threaded rod end of the cylinder under the floor.  the nut is welded to the slide and you spin the rod. 
on TJ's, it is much simpler and easier.  the threaded rod end of the cylinder is on the passenger side of the coach with a nut holding it on a bracket.   one is in the front passenger wheelwell directly above the tire.  accessible by removed a panel with screws or rivets.  the other is in the bay behind the entry door in the ceiling.  you remove the foam ceiling to get at it.  both are right near the outside of the coach and the threaded rod goes through a bracket.  there is a 1 1/8" nut on each one.  i took a 1 1/8" open/box end wrench and cut it off so it would fit in the front one.  
ok,  so here are the steps we did.  no guarantee they are right or the same for you....btw....we installed the vacuum pump mod on the seal before we did any of this.  and kept the seal sucked flat during all of this
.  
1.  we raised the coach up using the leveling system and put 4 jackstands under it and let it all the way down onto the stands.   that way when the slide cart is under the slide, there is no chance of the suspension leaking down and causing problems.  
2.  next, with the slide still in, we took off all the interior trim that would allow the slide to be pushed out through the opening in the coach.  each coach will be different based on what trim or couch or chairs or ceiling or valences, etc.  on his it was the overhead long valence, the metal strip with the hook on it under it, the 2 metal pieces bolted at the top of each end, the metal plate on the back of the trim at the front of the slide, the wood and corian piece at the end of the couch and the leather covered panel at the window.  every coach i have done is different.  that takes some time to find all the screws holding everything together.  took about 90 minutes on his.  
3.  then we put the slide out.
4.  put the slide cart underneath and firmly supported it with the jacks on the slide cart.  if putting in a new seal, be sure to put it around the slide before putting the cart underneath or you will regret it....ha    
5.  accessed the hydraulic cylinders by taking the panel above the tire off and the ceiling in the bay behind the door. 
6  accessed the microswitch that is in the ceiling close to the outside in the bay in the middle of the slide on the drivers side.  without taking the stop bracket off the slide will not come out.
7.  started taking the nuts off.  the one in the bay you can see, the one above the tire you have to do it by feel. they wouldnt come all the way off without moving the slide out an inch or two.  
8.  to move the slide out we used a couple of prybars and gently did each side a small amount at a time.  prying between the drop floor (which was up) and the fixed center floor of the coach.  you can find a spot that doesnt ruin the flooring.  do it at each end.  you will have to adjust where you are prying and maybe use a wood block to help.  it will be obvious as you do it. 
9.  it doesnt take much force to pry the slide out...once out enough to be able to get the nuts off the rams do so.  the cylinder may spin as you take the nut off and you might have to use a ratchet strap or pliers or something to hold it.  and maybe not.  
10.  now you make sure the slide is moved out enough to have total access to the seal on the 2 sides and top.  the bottom you have to do from the outside.  
11.  if replacing the old seal, now remove it.  it snaps into a plastic track all the way around.  on the bottom you do it from the outside after using the cart to raise it up enough to access it.  of course disconnect the fill hose of the seal first.  on TJ's his seal was fine, but had almost completely rolled out so we were just putting it back in.  the bottom was still in the track, but the one side and top was totally out. 
12. once the old seal is out, clean the track as best you can but i wouldnt go crazy doing it
13.  with doing a new seal on the front salon drivers side you will not need to cut it.  newell sells one size seal and for smaller slides you cut it.  start at the bottom in the middle and start going out both directions.  newell uses e6000 clear adhesive.  thats what we used here.  on tonys we tried a black different one and it was a mess.  e6000 is easy and not messy.  we only do adhesive every foot or so but do as you wish.  the bottom is the hardest as there is not alot of clearance under the slide.  
14.  now comes the part where you have to massage the seal.  if you work your way up both sides and then across the top, you will likely feel like the seal is about 6-12 inches too long.  it isnt.  we did the sides and top initially without adhesive.  we went up and kind saw how much too long it was.  then i took it back out on the top and one side and split the difference in the middle.  and then again on each side, letting it droop inbetween.  with some finesse you can mush the seal around and split the difference enough times to get it to fit.  once we got it in everywhere we went back and pulled a 6 inch section out and put a few inches of adhesive in and snapped it back in.  and did that across the tops and most of the sides.  
15.  we let it set for a few hours but you can decide how long to wait if at all.  
16.  now for the part of pushing the slide back in.  tj and i tried it by ourselves and it wouldnt budge.  not alot of leverage with the slide being so high.  tj called mark at newell to see if there were any secrets to getting it back in.  on my 2002, it pushed it pretty easy .  on tonys 2003 it was very hard.  mark said, no problem, have 8 guys there, 6 pushing and one at each ram to line the rod up with the hole.   so i called a bunch of buddies and at 730pm we pushed it in.  i did put my scissors lift in front of the slide to push off of.  that said the front went in very easy.  the back went an inch or two and had a hard stop.  we were able to get both nuts on but the back one wouldnt tighten.  that is where tj's post comes in.  it ends up that there is a rectangular piece of metal sticking out on the side of each cylinder on the drivers side. the cylinder has to be clocked just right such that the cylinder doesnt hit the frame of the coach, stopping the slide from coming in.  pictures below.  
once the nuts are on and tightened, you can put the microswitch stop bracket back on.  
17.  if you think you need to, you can inflate the seal and see if it holds air.  we didnt.  btw, we had the air depleted in the coach.  
18.  put all the interior trim and pieces back on.
19.  now you are done.
i think that is all the steps.  i will attach a bunch of pictures.  
tom

We have a 2016 Newell- all batteries died for about 24 hours. We were able to use a car to get the engine jumped. The generator turns on and we drive around for about 45 mins to try and charge everything up. 

The house batteries (?) are not starting. We don’t have aqua hot, heat, water pumps. The whole main control panel is dark where every other one is brightly lit. 

Any suggestions?

Phantom Screen Door Repair Mid Door Coach 1482

Door was squeaking when retracting and generally needed new fabric and cleaning.
The track is all that holds the door in place.  There are no screws other than the track screws.
Remove top track screws and remove track.  Newell had installed a pop rivet which made the removal
from the track guide more difficult but was able to get the track off.
Remove Bode door air valve cover which exposes the end of the bottom track.  Extend screen track
guide past end of bottom track & remove from track.  Bottom track does not need to be removed.
Pull the top of the Phantom housing out from the door frame and wiggle the bottom backwards out of
the track & remove from coach.
Screen fabric was 36” X 86 ¼”.  Purchased 8’ from Ace Hardware & trimmed to size.
Removed the housing top 2 screws and removed the spring retainer housing which allowed the spring
to unwind.  Removed bottom 2 screws and the bottom pin retainer housing.  Both needed cleaning,
especially the bottom.  Remove the spring from the tubing with pliers.  I put some grease onto the
length of the spring and oiled both ends of the spring as the mechanism squeaked when retracting. 
I put a small amount of grease on top of the spring slotted end.
Slide the screen from the handle end.  The screen is sewn onto a plastic spine.  I used an Exacto
blade to cut the threads so I could reuse the plastic spine.  I unrolled the screen from the tubing
& removed it.
I folded the new screen over the plastic spine and slid it into the channel.  I used a thread from
the screen to sew the folded screen to keep from slipping through the spine.
I attached the screen to the tube with duct tape & rolled it up.  Installed the tube into the
housing leaving enough of the spring end exposed to wind it up 13 turns.  Wiggle the tube and ends
into place and install the screws.
Install the Screen door onto coach.  Install the bottom screen housing first guiding it into the
bottom track then slide the top into place.  Extend the screen and slide the bottom guide onto the
track and retract the screen.  Slide the top track into the guide and install track & screws.
Test the mechanism and install Bode door cover.

The quality of the Phantom Screen Fabric is excellent, much better than the hardware store screen. The next time it needs replaced I may drop the door off at a Phantom dealer for replacement. Their turn around time was longer than I had before travel.

Hello all,

I've been working on this problem for a couple month's. Basically, the Allison Shift Pad doesn't light. The coach cranks anyway, but will not go in gear. It will actually crank without the shift pad connected.

I've had Allison mobile repair out 3 times. The first time, after checking wiring from the computer to the shift pad, voltages, etc., they said it was faulty shift pad. I ordered a rebuilt replacement. No lights.

The second time, more continuity checks and they programmed a brand new, in the box computer, and brought it. We swapped out the computer, no lights. I called the Allison Tech line and talked to Mike, a WTEC II guru, in fact, the only one there. He gave me a couple of things to try and then call him back.

On the third visit, Mike suggested we power the shifter directly from the battery. We ran lines from back to front, powering the shift pad directly. No lights. Also, we made a 12vlLight with a couple leads to make sure it burned bright when checking power wires. All the wiring at the front of the coach appears fine. 

I called Mike back at Allison to report the findings, and Mike retired last week. Mike was the only WTEC II tech there since they don't support II any more.

So, the only thing I haven't done is check the continuity from the transmission to the computer, which I was hoping I wouldn't have to do. Any ideas? Is it possible that I have 2 faulty shift pads?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

David

I have attached the latest Valid slide service manual as well as the previous version that other gurus have provided in the past.

I'm not sure when Newell changed over to this newer design.  It may have been when they started to offer opposing 30" slide rooms.  The newer design uses a gear and cam system to extend/retract the room.  The previous used an actuator to move the room.  The floor is still raised/lowered by an actuator.  If someone knows when this change occurred please chime in.

VSS90M-002-SM-Manual.pdf Size: 20.76 MB  Downloads: 187

VSS90M-001-SM-Manual.pdf Size: 6.82 MB  Downloads: 220