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  Check your Aquahot Exhaust Stack!

Posted by: Wanderman
03-16-2023, 06:04 PM
Forum: Heating Systems
- Replies (1)

So after a long diagnosis with no help. The culprit was the exhaust stack was full of water.

I have the standard elbow at the roof line, it was about 1/3rd full of water and was causing all sorts of combustion issues.

There is no drain? I added one at the base of the exhaust in the 90 deg elbow.

I will have to check the generator exhaust as well.

Seems like this shouldn't happen.

Main symptom was a lot of smoke coming BACK into the AH bay. When I removed the burner and combustion sleeve and added compressed air (lots of compressed air) I got gurgling and a solid stream from the roof! NASTY stuff too.

Well at least my burner now has all new parts, again.)

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  Bay door hardware

Posted by: HoosierDaddy
03-16-2023, 02:28 PM
Forum: Exterior
- Replies (1)

I’m needing 5 of these tabs they fit on the back of the bay door latches. Can somebody suggest a source?

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  2023 getogethers

Posted by: Tony Van Helden
03-16-2023, 10:42 AM
Forum: Get Togethers
- No Replies

Are there any getogethers planned for the mid - upper Midwest for the upcoming seasons?

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  Mini Split Ducted to run the entire Coach

Posted by: Tim wade
03-15-2023, 07:43 PM
Forum: Air Conditioning
- Replies (12)

Bedroom A/C stopped working, as it should when I’m in Miami FL. Lol ( 99 #530).  I’ve installed a 3/4 ton heat pump, 9K ducted mini split unit to cool the entire coach.  I’m still in the testing phase.  The hottest it has gotten is around 85 degrees. It stayed around 78 most of the day. The front A/C is still in, but I have ducted it to the mini split also. 

The install was a little difficult getting parts. I’m pretty sure the 11 1/2 X 5 inch duct is home made at Newell. I gave up trying to find a 90 to fit on about day 3 and decided to make a supply box out of 2” fiber board. At the end of the day, I wish I would have just done this from the beginning.  I installed about 90% of the ducted mini split inside the cold air return BOX. This way, I did not have to duct any of the return air. I just made a 5” block out for part or the return. It still gets air from this side, as it is open to the BOX.  The living room air is simple, it is only two 4” flex ducts. I just bought 25’ of 4” insulated flex duct from the Home Depot. I used 7” lag bolts to mount the ducted supply with 3/8 washers and locking nuts. I probably could have gotten away with 4” lag bolts. But I wasn’t sure how far down I was going to have to go. I also reinforced these with 2X4s to make it stronger.  

It is whisper quiet! The air comes out ice cold. I do with the fan blew a little harder. It does take a few hours to cool down the coach. If anyone has any questions or suggestions please let me know. 

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  FMCA sightings

Posted by: xGE_97
03-15-2023, 07:06 AM
Forum: Newell Sightings
- Replies (3)

I spotted two Newells at the Perry, Ga. FMCA rally. One was coach 1422, a 2011 unit. The other was near the front entrance and I didn't get the coach number.  Good to see 'em!

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  Headhunter Mach 5 Water Pump

Posted by: hypoxia
03-12-2023, 08:08 PM
Forum: Plumbing and fixtures
- Replies (37)

Does anyone have a parts breakdown or other Headhunter Mach 5 information?  Mine isn't starting as of today and I have not troubleshot it yet.  It hums but no rotation.

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  C2 Aquahot wire

Posted by: Wanderman
03-12-2023, 07:38 PM
Forum: Heating Systems
- Replies (3)

On my Aquahot harness. Coming out of the C2 pin I have a RED wire. C2 is Motor 12V+ this is split out of the harness and goes to a bare, broken connector. Any idea what it is supposed to attach to.

Never mind. Looks like it goes to the center cube relay for the circulation pumps.

If I am wrong, please let me know.

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  Blower Housing, Plastic Motor Housing and gasket/o-ring

Posted by: Wanderman
03-11-2023, 11:47 AM
Forum: Heating Systems
- No Replies

Hi Everyone,
  So the crack I had in the metal portion (Blower Housing) Finally went all the way through. So I have a new one coming. I noticed that the plastic housing around the motor (the outer casing) also has a crack and the o-ring from the parts diagram is missing.

2 Questions..

1. Do I need to repair the outer plastic housing (will it cause mixture/combustion problems?) if yes, how? Glue, high temp tape??

2. The red 12V Motor wire on C2 what is that connected to at the other end from the connector?? Mine comes out of the wire loom and it must have broken off while I was removing the burner.

I am in a tough spot as I am leaving for the factory this upcoming Friday and will only receive the metal blower housing on Tuesday, so little time to reassemble, especially given the nasty snow and ice we are having!

So wish there was someplace more local for parts!

Help!

Thank you!

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  Temp support rear of coach - drag guards

Posted by: AlanJohnson
03-11-2023, 08:14 AM
Forum: Suspension/Tires/Wheels
- Replies (4)

I need to remove a rear brake valve, so I obviously need to safely support the rear of the coach to release air and then go under it. I don't know exactly what to call them, but I'm calling them the drag guards at the rear bumper that keep the back end of the coach from dragging... if those are blocked, will they safely hold the body of the coach up?
If not, feel free to link me to another post about how to do this. I'm sure it's discussed I was just having trouble finding the relevant posts.
Thank you,
Alan Johnson

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  Mini split basics

Posted by: Jack Houpe
03-11-2023, 06:45 AM
Forum: Air Conditioning
- Replies (4)

I feel responsible for many people jumping on the band wagon of replacing their basement air units with mini splits, it is wonderfully quiet and the direct transfer of energy from the evaporator means minimum btu loss giving you a more comfortable conditioning of the coach inside air. That being said there is some thought that needs to be done before you jump into a the mini split transformation. I've listed some of the important factors I feel you need to understand before leaping into the mini split bandwagon. This is for the folks who don't know squat about HVAC, I am a electronic tech who loves mechanical devices, when I was in the USN I worked on aircraft and on an airplane you have many things controlled by electric devices like hydraulics, pneumatics and even air conditioning so this my background and I am not a HVAC engineer by schooling. 

Filtered air is a must, you must clean or change your air filter on mini splits its usually on the evaporator but in the case of ducted air or cassette units sometimes it could be remote, these units must have air filters and they must be cleaned often for them to work correctly. You cannot install a cassette or ducted unit without it as the evaporator core will plug up. We have cleaned our filters twice since we've been living in it Florida for 2.5 months and they were dirty, pets add to this. 

Return air is important and it should be only the coach inside air, no air taken from the outside, without recirculation of inside air your just robbing BTU's. 

BTU sizing, this is a gray area with me now as the 4 tons of original basement air was inefficient and we bought this coach in the fall so its hard to say just how much tonnage to use, many factors apply here, windows window treatments (U factor) blinds, solar shades, exposure to the sun, outside air temp, and humidity all effect this equation. In our installation we went with 3.5 tons. 12,000 BTU is one ton so we installed 42,000 btu in place of the 48,000 btu units in the basement, 100 degree day in Arkansas sitting in the sunlight will tell if we did it right or not. One comment here was the bigger the better and with mini splits thats more than likely the correct answer, with conventional heat and air systems you want to size it just right so that the unit stays on long enough to remove the humidity from the air, to big a unit will turn off to quickly and will not remove the moisture from the air and you'll have mold issues. To small unit will not cool the air enough and never turn off, on a inverter mini split it the compressor doesn't turn off and on like the old type compressors in the original basement airs and the evaporator will always have some amount of Freon going through the expansion valve thus removing moisture. Inverter is the future in HVAC, I found it interesting when Tom mentioned how long its been around.

Condensation drainage, it must be be gravity flow or you must use a condensation pump if one is not built into the unit, without this or if the job is done poorly then you will have a flood inside your coach. On wall mounted units I use both left and right drain ports so if your sitting unlevel it will drain.

Thermostat or remote placement is important if you lay it in the window with sun on it your going to freeze or if you set it on granite your going to be hot. I moved the wall mounted thermostat for the ducted unit above the refrigerator and it was a world of difference in comfort control. 

Evaporator placement, wall mount, ceiling mount, floor mount and ducted mount all have pros and cons, hot air rises so in the winter a floor mounted units will be more comfortable and cold air falls so in the summer a ceiling mount will cool you off more quickly. Most people on our forum have aqua hot for heat so its your choice for what and where you decide to mount the evaporators. On our coach I don't think I would change a thing, we have one mounted low and 2 mounted high.

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