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  Pneumatic Door Air Silencer

Posted by: hypoxia
10-18-2022, 06:00 PM
Forum: Air Operated Systems and Leaks
- Replies (10)

What is everyone using to eliminate the air exhaust noise from the entry door operation?  Mine has no muffler & I want to make the door operation seen but not heard.  There are a lot of options so I am wondering what has been used?  I have 1/4" tubing coming from the exhaust valves to make it easy to install a muffler.

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  Replacing Battery Isolator on my 701

Posted by: kaptain
10-18-2022, 10:17 AM
Forum: Electrical
- Replies (22)

While I was about to install the newly arrived Xantrex Echo Charge onto my 701, I further checked the wirings. I discovered a new issue: the battery isolator is apparently defective and needs replacement. The defect is that a middle (input) stud is broken or missing, and four (4) thick red wires are connected to one single stud.

This connection seems to purposely bypass the battery isolator to establish connectivity allowing electrical current to flow, but in any direction now, instead of limiting one-way-only flow from the alternator to the two battery groups.

See the attached photos showing the wiring issue. Now I believe the erroneous wiring here (might be as well as the erroneous wiring with Xantrex charge) are intentional rather than a mistake.  And I wonder if this was done by any repair shops or the previous owner. 

   
   

And I created a schematic that hopefully better illustrates the issue: three battery isolator terminals: A (output), B (input), C (output). Now connects A,B,C together - that's the issue.

   

So I started looking to buy a new part to replace the Sure Power 3002 on my 701. This is a battery isolator rated at 300 Amp. "Sure Power 3002" seems a discontinued/obsolete product for some time already, and it is hard to find. A few listings I could find show price over $500, even with used ones.  I found a Sure Power 3003 (which supports three battery groups) that also costs cover $500. 

So I started thinking about my options. Do I really have to buy the same model or the same type of battery isolator?  My understanding is that the Sure Power 3002 basically consists 2 large capacity diodes with a big heatsink. I could buy 2 or 3 large capacity rectifier diodes (prices around $10-$20/each) and build an isolator for under $100, but using rectifier diodes for current directional flow has one major drawback: a 0.65-0.75 voltage drop or power loss.   

My second option seems to go with mechanical relays. Many such relays are sold on Amazon, listed as Smart Relay Isolators, which switch on when the alternator has an output (engine running). When the alternator has no output (engine off), the circuity is automatically cut off, thereby disconnecting and separating batteries. The advantage of such a mechanical-based isolator is that there is no voltage drop like diode-based ones. But these types of relays rely on mechanical contacts to open/close; over time, these contacts go bad, especially switching on/off at an electrical current. 
Here are several mechanical relays seem attractive:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084VVGT4T/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q27WCHM/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SW4XVNR/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WDPZEW/


My 3rd option seems to use a "Schottky Diodes" based isolator, which works the same principle as the SurePower 3002, but it improves the voltage drop by half or ~0.3v (low current) to ~0.45V at high current.

So I kept thinking and searching. I see there is another type of isolator that employs MOS-FET. This type of transistor works great as a solid-state open/close switch over high currency, the advantage is it can reach near-zero voltage drop. Examples of such are made by Analytic Systems, Model: IBI1-40-340 cost about $200, this is attractive.

After considering several alternatives for replacement, I decided to go with "Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolator, 200A", which supports 3 batteries, although I only need support for 2.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UAN0HBE/

FET isolators allow simultaneous charging of two or more batteries from one source without the voltage loss associated with common diode isolators. I see Victron makes both (Schottky) diode-based and FET-based.

   

Now, here are my questions and a few items I need help on:

1) What is the isolator on your coach, maker, and model? I'd like to see how Newell fast changes and moves from older/traditional isolators to new ones over the years.

2) What would be your choice if you were me?

3) What type of alternator is on your coach? I have a Delco Remy 50DN, Part# 1117860. My alternator is good, but I'd like to read its wiring information.
    I found some documents online about this type of 50DN alternator, but none of such documents contained wiring information.
    https://www.delcoremy.com/support/servic...ion-sheets

4) I measured my house battery negative terminal against chassis metal. It reads about 1 volt. I thought the chassis metal should be ground therefore 0 voltage from the battery was negative against the chassis metal. What's the reading with your coach, with Alternator/Charger cut off both on and off?

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  Factory Carpet - How is it affixed?

Posted by: SouthernDevGirl
10-18-2022, 01:23 AM
Forum: General
- Replies (7)

I've found many posts on the forum that discuss replacing carpet.  I haven't found any that mention how the factory-carpet is affixed.

If the answer is unique for different model-lines, we have a 2006 p2000i.

Essentially I'm wondering if it uses tack-strips, adhesive, ...or something I haven't yet imagined?

In addition, are case-goods / wood-fixtures typically installed on top of the carpet, or is the carpet typically butt-up against the fixtures?

Thank you in advance for any insight Smile

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  broken slide

Posted by: 777rvhire
10-18-2022, 01:01 AM
Forum: General
- Replies (3)

Morning all we recently had someone leave a bag in the way when putting the bedroom slide in believe the side may be bent or off a rail as we now cant get the slide fully out has anyone removed a slide before?
if so any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

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  AC Overload

Posted by: afrench
10-17-2022, 07:27 PM
Forum: Electrical
- Replies (2)

Hi All. I’m not the smartest when it comes to electrical, inverter etc. 
My 05 coach has had the 2 Thomas compressors replaced with 1 Makita compressor on the 110 side. The plug is always hot because the switch inside on the panel doesn’t do anything (thinking about it now might be where wire nuts are on wires hanging down?) 
When I am on battery power, if the compressor kicks on and my water pump at the same time it kicks my inverter to AC overload. If I turn one off it will reset and be happy again. From what I can tell on my silverleaf panel the Makita pulls around 10 amps. I bought a smaller unit to try to see if it changed anything but no difference. 
My batteries are 7 months old. I’ve run the generator all the time while I’ve been dry camping but with cooler temps coming wouldn’t mind not having too. 
Any ideas where to start? Thanks or

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  AC Overload

Posted by: 360
10-17-2022, 05:35 PM
Forum: Heating Systems
- Replies (4)

Solved my problem thanks to Bill, but wanted to post this in case another newbie had the same issue.

So I was under the incorrect assumption that the switch on the main panel with options for Heat or A/C was for me to decide if I wanted to run the electric burner on the Aquahot or run the A/C.  

So while boondocking had my switch set to A/C and I was using my diesel Aquahot and I turned on the heater and got great heat.  Went to fire up the generator to use the cooktop and all the sudden the fans come on for the A/C…seemed very odd as it was a ton of what felt like cold air. Got done with cooktop, shut off gen and that fan quit blowing.  

Some time later I realize fridge has no power and I go up to inverter controller and see AC Overload.  

Lesson learned…if you need heat it might be a good idea to flip the one and only switch on the panel that says Heat to heat!  Feel kind of dumb, but for some reason I thought that switch was for something else.  

It’s my understanding that if the switch is set to heat and if you’re on shore power or gen that it also is used to power the electric side of Aquahot and the light next to the switch signifies that.

If I got any of the episode of Newell Coach heating for dummies wrong please let me know ?.

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  Main salon slide rebuild

Posted by: Jack Houpe
10-16-2022, 10:28 AM
Forum: General Repair
- Replies (66)

Due to a massive leak over a long time our salon will have to be rebuilt, the floor and ceiling are going be replaced due to dry rot and mold but the walls other than being stained are OK, no signs of window leaks either so we will use stain blocker on the walls. There was rips in the salon aluminum roof on front and back that was not repaired properly which caused this problem. The ceiling of the salon was held up by double back sticky tape in some areas. The leak cause one of the front control arms to freeze up and stripped the threads on the control arm bushing making the pop up floor lower in the front. Also one of the locking pins has a bad seal and leaks fluid from the shaft when activated which stained the wall. We had no idea about this as it was not disclosed to us when we bought it and was told it had a torn seal and a problem with the pop up floor. We've purchased a new seal from Newell which is 50 miles from us. Here are some horrifical pictures, we are almost done with the roof repair which we did first. We found this decayed rat under the floor, it must have smelt bad for some time.

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  Generator ram slide pin

Posted by: BusNit
10-14-2022, 08:14 AM
Forum: Generators
- Replies (2)

The pin for the slide is corroded on. I will need to drill it out. Has anyone replaced this and if so where did you find it? It has a E-clip on top and bottom. Bottom E-clip groove is buggered out from me trying to turn it with pliers. (I’d like to pull generator out more to do some work on it)

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  8V92 Coolant Filter?

Posted by: Floridian
10-13-2022, 11:47 AM
Forum: Drivetrain
- Replies (6)

my coach is running a little bit hotter than normal. I have to admit I haven't cleaned the radiator yet and this weekend will happen but I was also thinking that this could be because of the coolant being too old? I've never had any issues with the exitisting coolant but I don't know if I have to replenish SCA's or if my coach even has an SCA filter for coolant. I have to take a close look this weekend for this but if anybody knows this from the top of their head it will be highly appreciated if you can tell me if I should look for such a filter or not.

Also, I have no idea what coolant my coach has so I was going to do a complete flush and refill and I was in between SCA coolant and OAT coolant for an 8V92 should I have any preference? I have several bottles of SCA already so I was inclined to buy more of those and do the refill but I can also buy the Final Charge one and replace it with that one if it is better.

Thanks for any help on this.

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  Darn leaky engine

Posted by: BusNit
10-12-2022, 05:52 PM
Forum: Drivetrain
- Replies (7)

I thought my oil leak was limited to an oil pan gasket but as I was looking at battery wiring up and over the alternator area, I noticed a sizable leak at the rear of the engine going down the bell housing. I did cinch down the two bolts for the power steering pump but they didn't appear to be that "loose" to cause a leak of that size. For those of you with a 8v92 anything you could shed some light on for me? That area of the engine seems to have a thick caked on layer of greasy dirt. Maybe my almost 6k of high speed mileage exacerbated an already existing issue? I am a believer that all engines can be leak minimized. Overall the topside of this engine is very clean and dry.

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