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Can anyone provide pics of washer/dryer removal and converted to a pantry. I have removed washer/dryer. Thank you in advance!

Saw this at a consignment rv lot in Yuma today...one slide front drivers side
Mileage 180k....asking 135k

I am still working on a list of items on my newly purchased 701. 

One of the issues is that several signal lights do not turn on. This includes one brake light and one turn light (both on the left side). These look straightforward and seem easy to fix. 

But I have one red light on each side of the coach (see photo below) never seemed to light up, and I don't know when they are supposed to turn on. 
The location of these two red lights is NEAR the rear of the coach (but not at the rear), one each on the side. The left side of this light is right under the coolant-add inlet and above the radiator.

The light bulb on each side is a 12v 194 type bulb, tested both are good. But I am replacing them with LED equivalent once I get the wiring issue fixed.

Could someone let me know if these two (2) lights come on simultaneously when the turn signal is on? or if the brake is on or always on?

My coach was sitting outside for a while at a shop while the generator radiator was getting re-cored.  I picked it up at night and drove all night and discovered the leak in the pics below the following day.  I don't know if it was there before I drove home but I suspect it happened while I drove judging from the drip pattern on the door.
In the pics you can see a 1/4" air hose coming down from the aluminum at the top of the bay.  The water was coming from that hole where the hose passes through the aluminum.
I have a front entry coach and this is the second bay back on the front passenger side.  It is under the salon slide and the slide seal looks good and strong to me.
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to find the source of the leak?
       

Coach seems like will not go into travel mode. Technically I can’t do anything with the HWH. Can’t raise, lower, level, etc.

Fuses on HWH board are good. Unplugged controller for a bit as well to no avail.

In travel mode I have zero solenoids energized. Seems like something isn’t getting the signal.

I have replaced my original tankage level system with a sealevel.  I have already given one pcb away to another guru and have one more if someone wants it.
See pic.
   

Here's my video explaining the latest findings of 2 plate baseplate failures; one catastrophic, and the other a near miss.

Something critically important for all who are towing a vehicle with a tow-bar system.

LET'S GET THE WORD OUT...PLEASE SHARE!

Starlink has now officially begun offering an in-motion RV plan (continuous use while underway).  Their announcement:

In-motion Starlink is here! No more stopping to connect—stream movies, play games and make video calls all while moving towards your next adventure.

The Flat High Performance Starlink is now available for in-motion use with the Starlink RV service plan.
Orders can be placed immediately at www.starlink.com/rv

With a wide field of view and enhanced GPS capabilities, it can connect to more satellites, allowing for consistent connectivity while on the go. The hardware is designed for a permanent installation and is more resilient to extreme environments.

The new offering is also available through Winegard and can be installed at select RV dealerships nationwide.

Note: you can review their coverage area at: https://www.starlink.com/map?source=rv

Would I be crazy to think that I need 1200amp hr's worth of Lithiums (4 X 300 each battery) to run one AC all night along with fridge and smaller loads? I am not much of a solar/installation guru so I thought I'd ask those of you who done this. Seems that lithium battery prices are all over the place. Ampertime on Amazon has their version for $700 while Battleborns are 2300. I guess I need help designing this thing. connecting and wiring this is not an issue for me. It's more of how do I separate the charging of the lithiums from the starting batteries, isolating the generator 12v charging circuit and the like. Marie is pushing me for the tax credit but when batteries are close to 10k for what I want, the $950 worth of tax savings is really not worth it. She has the stigma that the government should not get the $950... I have plenty of roof space for solar panels. Seems like most of what I need to charge off grid will be in the 900watt capability in terms of solar panels.

I'm annoyed by unnecessary noise in my Newell as anyone who has read my noise solutions threads has seen.  The latest noise to fall under my ax is the Thomas Air Compressor unloader.  When the compressor stops the unloader dumps the air pressure remaining in the compressor with a loud Psssssshhh or whatever your favorite word for that noise is.  Using the same technology as my Pneumatic Door Air Silencer, I used another oil sample bottle with holes drilled in the bottom and filled it with foam.  I drilled a hole in the cap and screwed a 1/8" NPT fitting with a hose barb into the cap.  I scrounged an air compressor hose from my junk pile.  It was from a tiny compressor used as an emergency tire fill and had the threaded fitting to screw on to a tire valve.  I screwed it into the unloader valve which has the same threads as a tire.

Silence!