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Gurus,

My coach and I tend to stay south in the winter months but have found ourselves at the mother-ship in February and wanted to share with you a few thoughts that I have had about cold weather operations.   Those gurus in the north country will find this kinda “well duh”...but I wanted to share to help the next warm blooded person.   

It is currently 19f and forecasts say it is going down to single digit temps tonight with a strong wind chill.
   

Feel free to chime in and offer your own cold weather tips....

1).  Diesel fuel does not like to be cold.  In fact in temperatures below 32f the fuel will start to turn cloudy and at 17f and below it can actually start gelling.  Obviously this is not going to work very well.   You can add anti-gelling agents to the fuel which lower the gelling temperature to near zero degrees.

If you buy quality fuel (think big name truck stops)...it will come with the anti gelling additives.   The truck stops start adding the additives in the fall and stop adding them in the spring.  

In my case, I fueled up on the way up to Oklahoma at a Loves truck stop.   I tested some of the fuel from my fuel filter and it stays clear and liquid down to 0 degrees (using my kitchen freezer)  See picture.  The dark spots are rusty water that the filter separated from the fuel. 
   

2).  Drain water from fuel system.   Most of our coaches have a Davco fuel filter.  The device also removes water from the fuel.   If the water freezes in the fuel filter...game over.   On the bottom of the fuel filter mechanism is a petcock.   If you put a bucket under the petcock and open it, fuel will drain from the filter mechanism....part of the fuel will be water.  When I purposely froze the fuel in my freezer...the brown stuff turned solid while the fuel stayed clear.   Before you go into really cold weather...drain your fuel filter.

If your filter freezes or you end up with a waxy build up in your filter you will need to change your filter.  Be sure to have spare filters and a small supply of clean diesel fuel or ATF fluid so you can refill the bowl when you change the filter.

3).  While driving....turn on your diesel Aquahot burner.   In really cold weather, the engine will not be able to generate enough heat to overcome the amount you need to heat the coach.   Turning on the diesel burner while driving will make your coach warm and toasty while driving.

4).  I love my coach.  I especially love the fact that there are lots of ways to heat the coach.  Heated floors, Aquahot heat, electric heaters, basement heaters to keep water bay warm...  It’s really a marvel.   However....there is one thing that I wish I had....   A way to keep my air compressor (front passenger basement) bay from freezing.  On my coach the 120V compressor feeds the front two slide seals.   If the compressor stops working (or freezes) the slide seals will eventually deflate.  Not good in cold weather.

My solution was to sew up a blanket of sunbrella material with a layer of foam to cover the vents in that bay.  I installed snaps so it is easy to put on and take off.   In cold weather I run an extension cord to a small space heater that I put in the bay.   Right now the outside temps are 18f with wind...but it is a balmy 82f degrees inside the bay.   #winning.

   

Thank you for reading.   I hope that everyone stays safe and warm.  Again...feel free to chime in with your cold weather tips and tricks.

Cheers,
Bill

Gurus,

97 Newell Series 60 Detroit

At highway speed only temp gauge will jump up to about 220-230 but engine is NOT overheating as I have shot it numerous times with laser and block is 180-200, and if it was getting that hot the engine shutdown would activate. I have changed the sending unit on the engine,but no luck. Could this be a bad gauge in the dash? It only does this once you get to highway speeds over 50-60 MPH.
Has anyone else ever experienced this in the older Newell's with Series 60? Otherwise this engine has been bulletproof and runs great!!

Thanks,
Greg McCann
[email protected]
817-296-0166

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/rvs/d...65258.html

I am unrelated to this Coach and no nothing about it.

As i search for mine I stumble across others.

Rick

I saw this post on cl. Anyone familiar with this classic? 


https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/rvs/d/...15630.html

I have a bad relay in my generator and having trouble finding a replacement. Its a Potter Brumfield AB-1301 and has 8 posts.

Even numbers on one side and odd on the other. When the relay is off posts 8 and 2 are connected, and posts 7 and 1 are connected. When the relay is actuated posts 8 and 4 are connected and posts 7 and 3 are connected. Posts 5 and 6 turn on the switch.

I would think theres a modern replacement but have not been able to find one. I have thought about wiring in 2 relays to replace it. Any tips would be appreciated.  I apologize for the attached relay diagram, I am sure its not correctly notated.

i am posting this for NEWELLbe, a new member.  here is his request.  if anyone can help please post.

thanks

tom

======================

July 1982 Coach # 1016
6V-92T/Allison
40' single drv axle

Wiring was beyond saving in engine area, and aux start panel.

We downloaded an owner's manual for 1987
With a bit of nomenclature regarding some functions and circuits.
Not quite enough to run with, but some colors are consistent.
My question would be
Are any charts, diagrams, or more comprehensive nomenclature available for coaches closer to our mfg date?
We have eng trans out for resealing, some cleanup and detailing in compartment, along with my wiring rescue mission.

This topic has been covered in other threads about air bags, but usually hidden in within threads. 

On coaches with Ridewell rear suspensions, Goodyear air bags made in the last five years, maybe longer, have a known design feature that does not play well with the Ridewell suspension. It is at it’s worst with the tag air bag. 

Let me describe the problem and then illustrate with pictures. If you look at the Ridewell suspension it pivots at one end, and the air bag is located at the other end, away from the pivot. The air bag is captured at both top and bottom. The top is bolted to the frame, and the bottom is bolted to the suspension. As you raise the coach above travel height and the suspension pivots, the two surfaces that the airbag is bolted to obviously move apart. They also do not maintain parallel alignment. On the tag in the fully up position, the two mounting plates are about 20 degrees out of parallel.  On Goodyear air bags that is sometimes enough to cause the air bag to leak or burp. If it burps, the suspension will sit flat down with a big whoosh. If it just leaks, the suspension will slowly settle out of level. They may or they may not reseal themselves if you let the suspension all the way down. I have seen the leaking with my coach, I have seen the burping with Bill Johnsons coach where it sat completely down on one side in less than a minute, and I know that Mike Ginn’ s coach did this on the freeway putting the fender on the tires while moving. 

First, the pictures of the Goodyear bags show how this is possible. 

In this picture you see assembly of the bottom of the bag.    

In this picture you see the support ring, which is not secured in any way, removed.    

In this picture you also see the metal piston protruding from the bottom of the bag, you also see the bolt that secures the piston to the suspension. 

In the last picture you see that the piston is simply sealed to the bellows of the bag by the piston fitting tightly into a reinforced bead molded into the rubber bellow. That is the root cause of the problem    


When the piston is cocked in that reinforced ring (think tire bead), it breaks the seal. The piston cocks when the bottom and top plates are not in parallel. 

Oh my, now that you have given me one more thing to worry about, is there a solution? Yes and No. Firestone air bags are constructed in such a way to prevent this from happening. Great, yes except two things. The bags we use for the drive axle are special order and take forever to get. Plus the bag we need for the tag is obsolete.

Just looking for some opinions and insights.

Most camp grounds have quiet times. They vary, but in general 9/10 pm to 7/8am. Sometimes i want to get an early start, but i am always concerned that i am going tick off the others. As you know, we don't have quietest engines, plus you got to give it time to air up, etc.

I'd like to know how the rest of you feel about this.

Thanks

            Just saw this on MOT website. 2002 45' Mid Entry #630

79K miles, $119,000K. Only 1 picture but apparently more to com. Seems like a pretty good deal, at least on the surface

2002 Newell 45' Mid Entry | Motorhomes of Texas

After reviewing the Interior threads, I must conclude that this is the first time my problem has occurred to anyone.  

Whilst finally switching out the halogen for LED lamps in the main part of the salon ceiling, I discovered that the whole mirrored plexiglas oval panel is loose.    It would have fallen by now except for hanging by the wires of its 8 lights.    Through the 1" gap on one side, I see that the grey adhesive has simply let go.    There's no evidence of a water leak or other damage.

Looking for an acceptable shortcut here.   I'm hoping not to disassemble the whole ceiling, remove adhesive, reapply, shore it up to dry, re-install lighting, etc.    Is this a job for adhesive/liquid nails, or is there a double-stick foam tape that's up to the job?     Part of the challenge is that even the very center of this panel is loose, and that's almost three feet from the accessible edge.

I'm tempted to use fasteners with gold plastic caps, aesthetically arranged.    Has anyone cracked the code?    Thanks!