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forest and i were at all aboard america today having work done on his coach.  this late model 4 slide prevost was there having some repairs done.  this was george strait's personal coach.  it had 15k miles on it.  

it had 2 massive tesla LiOn batteries with two even more massive victron inverter chargers.  i chatted with the driver and he said they can run all 6 (yes six) roof airs for 8 hours and then the genny will recharge the batteries in 2 hours.  two huge alternaters on the engine.  

very pretty dark cherry coach.  

by the way, the driver asked me if my coach used DEF.  if so, to be careful.  the coach was there because they had accidently put DEF in the diesel tank.  it had the valve cover off and was having the injectors replaced and not sure what else.  the shop foreman said it was more common than you would think.  the DEF and diesel fill tubes are right next to each other.  they had both caps off and had accidently put the DEF nozzle in the diesel fill tube.  very expensive accident.  

i guess the key is to only take one cap off at a time.  i bet it wont happen again since both co drivers that are permanent to the coach were there.  nice guys

tom

Is there a consensus among us Arizonans about which of the local technicians is the most competent for Aqua-Hot troubleshooting?    I probably just need some routine work done, (and yes, I could do it myself) but would like to get it right the first time.    Any advice appreciated.
Chuck

This might seem kinda of lame question but how do you get the air filter out for service? It looks complicated so I dont want to gut the engine compartment if I don't have too.

We have decided to sell our '86 Classic. A year ago we got a '99 Wanderlodge with an M11 500 HP. We used both off/on since, both pulling the stacker and just a jeep. During the hot summer days the Cummins managed heat better, especially on long grades. We also used the 'Bird at Quartzite for a week and the AquaHot was nice when boondocking. 

In the past 3 yr. the coach has had the following work.

All 3 roof airs
Rairton water heater
Tires
Rebuilt Allison 740
New shifter control
All air bags replaced
Complete paint/body work
Complete interior remodel, including bathroom and toilet
Plank flooring
2 furnaces
New fridge
Magnum inverter
H-D trailer hitch
Batteries

Probably some other things I forgot. Coach needs nothing to travel anywhere. We had it ready to spend the summer in Alaska, but my Dad's health prevented the trip as planned. He's OK now so maybe this May.

130,000 miles, 350 hr. showing on Kohler genset (not correct) maybe 3x that.

The 8V92@ 475 HP uses no oil and does not leak. Trans is tight and shifts as it should. 

Asking $34k, pics are in our gallery. Questions ,more pics etc. email Mark.   [email protected] or call me 
306 436 7673. Coach stored inside at Maricopa AZ. I will deliver anywhere in U.S.with a 50% deposit.

Thanks, Mark

I looking to connect with any local owners near the Sacramento area. Ive seen Visalia and San Francisco area I think. Anyone else?
Just want to pick your brains see other Newells.

TIA

rundlc

I was out on a bicycle ride on the Santa Ana River Trail here in Riverside, CA Friday morning.  There is one stretch along the bike path where there are several large storage yards.  One of them always has lots of vintage motorhomes.  I always look to see if there is anything interesting, and this time I did a double take.......

   

....and there it was......an early 80's Newell Classic right next to a Blue Bird Wanderlodge.  Going to try and go by there and find out about the Newell in the next day, or two.  Externally it does not look too bad.

I could only imagine that most of you lay awake at night thinking about replacing your waste tank sensors. Ok, maybe not. Some of mine were giving erroneous signals indicating the tank was partially full when it was not. Since the bride was well tuned in to the sensors in order not to overflow the tank, I received requests (multiple) to correct this situation. I delayed because I had heard horror stories about getting the old ones out. 

Getting them out is easy. Seriously, but you have to understand how they seal to make it easy. The screw you see threads into a nut on the other side of the rubber grommet. Tightening the inner nut on the screw tightens against the nut on the other side of the grommet, squishing the grommet, and sealing the hole. If you simply pull on the screw head you compress the grommet even tighter in the hole. Back both the nuts off toward the screw head, push the screw into the grommet about 1/4 inch. Put a small screw driver behind the lip of the grommet and pry the grommet out. If you can get a pair of needle nose pliers between the grommet flange and the tank, it’s even easier. 

It took more time to put the zip tie protective covering on the wiring than it did to change all five sensors. And go ahead and remove the fancy water bay covering to gain access. It would be very difficult to do with the cover in place. 

Oh yeah, it’s a good idea to empty the waste tank before starting the process.

Does anyone have any history on this coach?  We are looking to move from a front door coach to a mid door coach.

https://www.legacycoach.com/2011-newell-p2000i

Is it ok to steam clean the engine bay and transmission with degreaser ? Do I need to be cautious to any particular device or place?

The title alone will get some attention. To make the story as painless as possible, I will lead with the answers.

We were down to about 4 minute showers when on electric. The real culprit and solution was replacing the Grohe shower cartridge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZL...UTF8&psc=1

On this journey, I also replaced the internals of the tempering valve because that seemed to belikely culprit for cold water. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNP...UTF8&psc=1

And while I was at it, installed a double wall flat plate heat exchanger. In hindsight this was overkill but it does provide 20+ minute hot showers on electric, and truly endless hot showers on diesel.

   

In this graph you can see that with the old cartridge the shower water temp would rapidly plummet. The blue line is the old cartridge, the green line is the new cartridge, and the black line is 100 F representing cold showers. It wasn't quite as severe on diesel, but honestly not a comfortable shower. Now that I have played with it, the signature of a faulty cartridge is a high starting temp, higher than the setpoint, and a rapid decline in output temperature. 

I first replaced the Watts tempering valve, and collected data in the shower. In hindsight, the faulty cartridge in the shower obscured whatever improvment the new tempering valve innards made. After thinking about it, the better way to test the tempering valve is at the outdoor faucet, hot water only. 

After the Watts repair, and still no joy, I decided to implement the ultimate Aquahot upgrade which the installation of the double wall flat plate exchanger. Here is a poor picture.

   

If you decide to go down this path, here is how I did it but first let me explain what it does and how it does it. The install will make more sense if you understand the background. In it's stock setup the AH heats potable hot water via a long copper coil wrapped around the outside of the AH tank. The purpose of outside is to provide a double barrier from contaminating potable water with ethylene glycol. Works great for safety, but it is not the best heat exchanger technology. The second thing to understand is that when the AH is running on diesel, the B zone circulation pump runs circulating ethylene glycol in the tank and through the bathroom heating loop. It doesn't get hot in the bathroom because the fans do not come on in the inside radiator. The circulation of the EG in the tank greatly improves the heat transfer to the potable water coil wrapped around the outside of the tank. Easy to see if you imagine hot but stagnant liquid in the tank. As you draw heat away the liquid next to the outer edge of the tank starts to cool. By stirring it you keep hotter liquid in contact with the outer skin of the tank which results in more heat transferred to the hot water loop. That's just dandy if you are running on diesel, but most of us like to use the pedestal power to heat our water, after all that's the purpose of the 220 V megawatt heater, right?

The issue is the EG (ethylene glycol) in the tank does not circulate when using electric, which results in shorter shower times. 

A way around the heat transfer inefficiency is to take the circulating EG and pass it through a second add on heat exchanger while passing potable water through the other side of the exchanger. Flat plate exchangers are compact and very efficient, and double wall models provide the potable water protection required. They have been used in Europe to heat potable water for a long time. 

This is how I did it. I will break it into three parts: connection and routing of potable water, connection and routing of hot EG, and how to activate the EG circulation when using hot water. Part one, if you look at the incoming cold water pex line to the AH and follow it into the big stainless cover, you see a 6 inch long run of straight copper. Removing the burner helps a lot in this step. I cut a two inch section of that copper line out, and sweated two elbows in. I ran copper from the water in up to the level of the stainless cabinet and terminated with a 3/4 NPT fitting. I used a braided hot water heater hose to connect the incoming(cold) water to the water inlet on the FPHE (flat plate heat exchanger). I used the second elbow and ran copper the same way to the top of the stainless enclosure and also terminated with 3/4 NPT. I connected this line to the water out of the FPHE. This way cold water comes from the incoming, passes through the FPHE, and enters the AH as prewarmed water. 

Part two. Clamp the 3/4 inch heater hose north of the middle check valve. Remove the hose from it's barb. Install a short section of new hose with a barb to 3/4NPT fitting on the end. Connect this using a hot water heater hose to the incoming EG side of the FPHE. Connect the outgoing EG to the heater hose you removed with a hot water heater hose and a barb. The water side and the glycol side are now plumbed. 

Install a flow valve like this one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QNN...UTF8&psc=1 , into the incoming cold water pex line. Provide 12v positive to one wire and run the other wire to the B zone pump relay. It will be easy to spot were to attach since the red (diode) wire from the burner is siamesed here also. This will turn on the circulation pump anytime hot water is used. 

Here are the measured results of shower run times take after the modification. The blue line is showering on diesel power, the green line is on electric power, and the yellow line is on electric but without the circulation pump running.  It took me about four days, but 3.5 days of that was false starts and faulty approaches. What I posted can be done in half a day. 

   

Many thanks to Bill Johnson for the graphs, data collection, and moral support.