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https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2004-Ne...rt-listing

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2002-Ne...rt-listing

Quad slide, murphy bed with couch across from bed, bath and a 1/2, beautiful coach.

Pop RV https://www.poprvs.com/class-a-rvs-for-s...ida-175096

Probably a silly question , but I am looking for the correct number of engine oil filters on our 86 Classic . The literature in the Newell handbook shows : Engine Filters : spin on oil : 2 each -PF-911 AC . 
I have been able to locate only one spin on filter , driver's side of the engine . Is this a misprint from Newell or am I missing something ?
Hope everyone is having a great summer !
Thanks ,
Chris

                                            Hello, my name is Curt and I’m helping my brother in law sell his 71 Newell 30’ with a 391 Ford and Allison tranny. 168,000 miles. It runs, drives and stops. We haven’t ran the generator, ac units or any appliances. Fresh grey and black tanks have not been checked and unsure about the propane system. We did install a new starter and solenoid. If any of the gurus have any idea of what it’s worth I would greatly appreciate it. Here are some pics.

How many of you run with the mode on?
I learned something new on the Foretravel forum recently.  I always thought the economy mode was for driving on flat ground to get better economy.  But after that discussion I've been using it driving in the mountains.
This is all based on my Cummins M11 with 1450# of peak torque at 1200 rpms.  Not sure how that compares to the DD series 60 torque, but probably similar.
Apparently the economy mode changes the shift points to lower rpm values, who'd a thunk it?
On my Foretravel in the mountains the Allison (same as Newells) would down shift to 5 or 4 sooner to keep the rpms up to 1400-1500.  And sometimes on cruise control it would hunt between 4 and 5.  But in economy mode it wouldn't shift as often since it keeps the rpms closer to the peak torque.  Result is smoother running up hills.  
Now you still need to keep an eye on your engine temperature since on a long steep climb the temps could start to climb.  If that happens I just down shift to get the rpms up to 1800 to 2000 to keep temps from climbing.
I have no idea yet if my fuel economy is any better but the engine and transmission seems happier and smoother on economy mode.
Any thoughts?

Series 60, Allison, no slides, 55,000 original miles. Photos on RVTrader were taken before installation of 2 roof airs. 2nd owner, owned 15 years.

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1995-Ne...5007848283








Recent photo of exterior:

I have posted about this before, because I have had issues with the 50 amp plug connections either loosening or corroding. 

It’s a quick little project. Unplug the coach from the pedestal and take the screws off the plug cover. Inspect and tighten the fittings that capture the wires. Look for signs of corrosion or arcing. Just to be very clear, I am talking about the plug on the coach cord, and NOT the pedestal. I do not advocate poking around in the pedestal.

It’s summer, and bad wire connections at your plug drop the voltage and increase the amperage on your air conditioner compressors if you believe Ohm’s law. That is not good for the longevity of the AC unit.

Without a schematic drawing and this being against common sense I'll ask the group first. My 120v air compressor will only run if the generator is running. With shore power connected and L1 and L2 power showing voltage on the panel this makes no sense. Shore power and no generator the compressor won't turn on. Know the demand is there, the air system would be below cut in pressure for sure by a bunch. The AC bus I wouldn't think would parse out the 120v generator power exclusive to the generator and or the auto ac power transfer switching for the bus do anything but all or none generator or shore power. Maybe a relay somewhere to switch compressor from gen bus to shore bus  but I don't see a reason why.
Terry

My entry door has 3 black plunge switches mounted on the hinge side of the door jamb. They are operated by the closing and opening of the door. The bottom one has had the plastic protruding button break off making the steps work incorrectly. My question is how does the switch get removed for replacement. Does it pull out of the jamb with enough pig tail wire left to replace? Or is access only from the back, which seems impossible without major disassembly of the wall area beside the entry door. Next would be a vendor and/or part number for the switch. 1995 45 Coach #373 Thanks in advance.