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This guy failed

All,
My wife just came out of the coach after completing an inventory of everything on board.  We both had been sitting on the front porch perhaps a minute or two when we heard a load crash inside the coach.  Found a glass mirror from inside the bath had fell off the rear closet door crashing to the floor (she had been in that very closet).  These mirrors are not tempered glass, broken glass was everywhere. I shudder to think if one of us had been in the bathroom barefoot getting ready for bed or a shower. 

The mirror looked like it was original and bonded to the door with 3M 77 spray adhesive.  I have to ask, has anyone else seen their mirror(s) fall off? 

I will be inspecting the remaining mirrors for integrity....any ideas on a good bonding adhesive that is designed for glass mirrors?

Thanks,
Steve

Good evening all , I own coach 1403 a 2010 model while driving back from vacation yesterday a warning light came on dash saying brake pad wear, I have 64,000 miles on coach and second owner logging about 15,000 miles since I have owned it. My question is do I need to call newell to get pads from them or will they give me part number since I live in Oregon, also I have been told that the tag axle  along with  steer axle have brake pads any y body have  advise

Not sure the front dash is considered a ‘firewall’ but that’s all I know to call it.  I need to get a new wire from the inside of the coach to the outside for some LED light strips I’m running.  I know there are other 12-volt sources I could use but I need the new controller box to be inside and then run an extension wire (5 wires) to the underside of the coach to connect to the new light strip.
I searched and could not find anything here...

1988 40 ft 8V92

Engine will start by jumping the starter mounted battery cable to the starter mounted solenoid terminal.

Will not start via the ignition switch.

Under dash circuit board: 

Circuit 14 is supposed to be the starter circuit. It is hot, electrified not temp, when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. Ckt 14 is a fairly small red wire. The control wire at the solenoid is a black wire, 14-10 gauge, hefty.

This leads me to believe that Ckt 14 actuates a relay or solenoid closer to the starter.

Any ideas? Who, what, where, how, or Y?

Thank you,
Tim

Link to related discussion


Gurus,

Before you read this post, read the related thread regarding play in the steering gear.

I just got back from Richard Entrekin's house.  One of the things we talked about was the amount of play in my steering.  We discussed the u-joints as a possible source of play (as described in previous post).   The rest of this post will walk you through our efforts and may present an opportunity if your steering gear is like mine.

If you have steering slop caused by the universal joints, it is most apparent by feeling the u-joints with the steering shaft removed.  Alternatively you can hold the upper u-joint in one hand and rock the steering wheel withe the other.  You are trying to feel a mechanical "lash" or looseness.  If you have looseness, it could be the u-joints bolts are loose or the bearings in the u-joints are worn.

We were trying  this technique on my coach when we noticed something truly puzzling.  When we turned the wheel, the boot moved!  The movement of the steering wheel should result in the steering shaft rotating only...not moving left and right.  

   

We blocked up the coach and Richard crawled under and removed the bolt holding the lower U-joint to the steering gear box.  I removed the screws holding the boot and undid the top bold and then  pulled the steering shaft up through the hole in the floor.

   

Before I explain what we found, let's review how the steering column does it's thing...

   

The steering wheel is fixed and only allowed to rotate.  The steering gear box is also fixed.  Between the steering wheel and the steering gear box there is a shaft with a u-joint on either end.   SO, IF BOTH ENDS ARE FIXED, THERE SHOULD NOT BE ANY MOVEMENT IN SHAFT OTHER THAN ROTATION.  The Steering gear box converts the rotational input to a front-back movement via the Pitman arm.  The Pitman arm connects to the driver's wheel via a drag link.  On my coach the rest of the steering gear seemed to be tight, but what about that weird thing right above the lower u-joint?

   

SOURCE OF STEERING SLOP

That is called a "Rag" joint and is used to dampen road vibration.  From the factory it has almost no "twist"...but after 250,000 miles, it has developed twist, twirl, shimmy and shake.  In other words it is LOOSE!  Richard and I tried to find a replacement but came up empty.   Rag Joint Wiki

HOW TO DE-WOBBLE A LOOSE RAG JOINT

Richard added a small steel plate to the top of the rag joint.  In the following picture, it is easy to see the steel plate.  (Richard later cut off the corners so that it would fit back through the hole in the floor).  

   

This removes all of the play from the rag joint.  It also reduces the effectiveness of the road rumble damping, but it is a small price to pay for the gain in steering precision.

We reinstalled the steering shaft and verified that all the bolts were tight.  

RESULT

The results were simply amazing!  Before when a big truck passed me, I would have to "saw" on the wheel to maintain my position in the lane.  Now, I can use one hand with no "sawing" to hold my position.    The coach is far, far more stable. 

DO YOU HAVE THE RAG JOINT?

To see if this fix will work for you, block your coach.  Take a bright light and look above the steering gear box.  If you have a "rag" joint, you may very well have this problem.  

     

Thanks to Richard and others for the previous work on figuring out loose steering.   This is simply another piece of the puzzle.

All,
If you have the above refrigerator and see the Service message with a code of 40 50 your thermistor has developed a problem. The thermistor is located on the circuit board. You can replace the thermistor by itself or replace both the thermistor and circuit board.

Reese Cantrell
Newell Coach 1242

Still working my 110 compressor and I have a question. There is a valve in the line between the compressor and the line to main line into the aux air tank. It has 3 spades but there where only 2 wires going to the switch. I ran the compressor and it shuts down at 110lbs. With out the valve in the line so the question is what is it and how to wire it. Will try to post picture 

With all the Electrical Engineers and other that know way more about electronics than I do on this forum surely someone has looked at putting a Smart thermostat in their coach.
I’m talking about a Nest or Ecobee (my favorite) thermostat so we can monitor our coach or get alerts if the temps are too high or low inside.  
I mean, after all, the main reason we bought all of our coaches is so that they are glorified, expensive dog kennels... 
Anyone try this yet?  I know the wiring on our t-stats is odd but it can’t be that much different considering we basically have regular home a/c units, right?

Just a few questions as a new prospective DP owner.  In considering a late 90's thru early 2000's model could anyone give their opinion on the following:
1.  Are the slides a maintenance issue to be concerned about and is a Newell with no slides going to be signicantly less trouble maintaining with regard to problems with the weather (leaks and debris, etc.)
2.  Is the resale market for a no slide coach considerably less than one with at least 2 slides.
3.  Are the infrastructure components (generator, aqua hot system, leveling system, suspension, drive train & transmission etc.) vunerable for replacement in this vintage of coach (1995 - 2005).  

Thanks for your suggestions,
Ken