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The info direct from Detroit Diesel.

https://ddcsn-ddc.freightliner.com/cps/r...-60-01.pdf

My coach has not had this upgrade...............................yet.

Yesterday, we had our front SCS air freeze up on us. Not sure how long it was frozen for but before I realized what had happened, I had flipped thermostat controls around in various ways (Hi/Lo, just fan, etc). Once I realized that with just the fan on, I was getting no air flow, it had become apparent that it was a freeze up.

I cleaned the filters under the stairs and then I ran the evap fan for a while to help the melt and then turned the thermostat to Off before heading to bed.

About 10 minutes later, the wife noticed that the A/C compressor on that unit was running. Even though the thermostat was in the Off position. And the evap blower was not running.

If I turned the therm back to Cool, the evap blower would come on. Turned back to off and the blower stopped but the compressor kept running.

I turned the thermostat back to cool, set it to a set point just above the current temp, and after a minute or two, the whole thing turned off as one would expect.


So I figured that the thermostat is going wonky on me.

However........

It was late, so I killed the breakers for that unit and went to bed again.

Then the wife notices that even though the rear air evap blower is not running, the rear compressor is!

Same story as the front - I set the set point to just above current temp, waited a bit, and it turned off.

I can't believe that I've had 2 thermostats fail in the same fashion on the same day. Or at least near enough to each other that it seems like they failed on the same day.

Is there any reason whatsoever that the compressor should ever be running without the evap blower? To me that seems like a sure fire way to have a freeze up, and I suspect it is why my front unit froze in the first place.

I am having some paint work done on my 1988. I would like to replace the rubber flanges at the rear wheel wells. Does anyone know of a source for these items. Thanks Pete. I will post pictures when the old girl comes back.

I am planning to use this motor for the condenser fan. It has a run capacitor but I don't see a start capacitor. Should I wire it into the capacitor that is already mounted to the condenser box or just wire directly to the 115V or is there a better way to do it?

It’s fixed, so no panic. This is more for someone else who may have this problem in the future.

Here are the symptoms. Key turns, instruments on dash come on, but engine does not turnover. Additionally, if you are stopped in a rest stop in South Dakota when this happens your stomach sinks to your shoes.

The issue for me was the starter relay located in the engine bay. It is just like the merge solenoid. After measuring the output when the key was turned and getting no voltage on the starter side, the problem was clear. Lucky for me I carry a spare merge solenoid. If you didn’t have a new one, you could rob the merge solenoid in a pinch

   

On my coach I have 4 slide pins on the passenger side slide 2 on the top 2 on the bottom. The pins have not been engaging since I bought the coach. I removed the upper inside trim and found the 2 magnetic switchs were pushed up into the locking block . I found that the magenits are.  In the slide dose anyone know if there are sensors on the bottom can't see anyway to get to them

On a recent trip in our 86 , the generator stopped running while we were travelling . Indicated oil pressure was near 60 psi , temp 155 on console gauges . We heard a " clinking " sound and I immediately noticed that the AC voltmeters were dropping to zero and the generator had stopped running . Gen had been running fine for about 14 hours . Oil level on the full mark . After about 45 minutes I tried the start switch and the generator fired right up and ran fine for the rest of the trip , about 2 hours . Evidently the hour meter doesn't work , but has something over 2,500 hrs showing . 
 I noticed that the front roof AC seems to be drawing a lot of current , 16 amps on the overhead ammeter . The gen was really laboring at times when running all 3 ac units . No breakers kicked , but at one point the relay / contactor above the dash was clicking . All this prior to shut down .
 I want to check the brushes and slip rings . Looks like the options are : remove genset . Access through cooling fan hole . Cut out part of gen compartment floor and replace after repair . For me , removing the unit is probably going to be the best way to go . I'm thinking of slicing off the slide out limiter , then use my engine lift to ease the whole thing out . This way I should be able to get the unit out without disturbing the radiator , etc .
 This was first outing with our fully loaded race trailer and the old coach pulled it with no problem . Very happy about that .
Any advice much appreciated . Forgot to mention , also have new fuel filter to install .
Thanks ,
Chris

Hi while I was away wife stepped on brake while leveling coach. Now the brake lights won,t go out even with air brake button pulled or in.

Yesterday I was inspecting the rear electrical connection department to tighten any connections when I noticed that this device was hot to the touch, I mean hot not warm. I'm not sure what it does but a label above it says "Merge". Being uncertain if it was safe or not, I decided to disconnect one side and within a few minutes it did cool off, however this did affect some of my electrical items like the power steps, dash lights and a few other items. I reconnected it this morning and again it is hot. Can anyone tell me what this is and is this normal or does it need to be replaced.
Thanks
Dario

Coach #581 2001 45'


[attachment=5633]
[attachment=5634]

Sounds like a very uniquely configured coach...#624, a 2002 45 footer mid-entry with two full baths, 2 "drop down" bunks in salon area, diamond plate roof deck, and large chrome side stripe.

https://www.rvonline.com/single-ad.asp?Recnumber=70030