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Does anyone know of a source for window weather stripping channel for a 1980 Newell?

Have a 1987 with 8v92, Williams throttle. Anyone know a place in AZ that knows about these? Throttle is  almost impossible to maintain in 1 position. Either 1000 rpm or 2200. Slow response and erratic at same time if that makes sense. Ideas?? Thanks in advance, Mark

2 months ago the shower would not get hot only Luke warm and would not change temp. Everyone said it was the cartridge. Newell installed a new one. It got hot scalding hot and would not cool down. At newell now they removed reinstalled and now it’s back to Luke warm won’t change temp and the other faucets are not hot. Newell is stumped.. any ideas

Btw aquahot is working perfect for the bays and heater..

I recently made a post here on the NewellGuru site that noted I was in Florida; it turns out Richard read said post and realized that I was close by.  He invited me to stop by and overnight in his driveway.  I decided to take him up on his offer.

BikeStuff (Bill Johnson) was there as well in his coach, so Richard and Rhonda's yard was quite literally filled with Newells.  I have to say that this stop at Richard's was the highlight of my Florida trip! Richard and Rhonda were fantastic hosts, feeding us all a great fajita dinner, and then coffee w/ muffins in the morning.  It was great chatting with Richard, and Bill too, sharing Newell tips, stories, etc.  I found Richard to be an absolute wealth of valuable Newell information!!!

Richard and Rhonda, THANK YOU!  Matt and I thoroughly enjoyed our stay!

Bill (Bikestuff), it was fantastic to meet you and put a face (and coach) with your name. 

To Richard & Rhonda, Bill, and any other NewellGuru member out there............I hope if you're ever in our neck of the woods you might allow us to repay the favor.  We are located in central Michigan and have plenty of room for Newells!

[attachment=5294][attachment=5293][attachment=5292]I have a Leece-Neville 2800LC Alternator (160 amp) for sale. The unit is new and includes the pulley. PM me if interested and we can work out a price.

https://reno.craigslist.org/rvs/d/40ftne...80566.html

Returning from our trip West we ran through some pretty cold weather most of the way. Temperatures in the 20's and in the 30's if we were lucky.

Running down the highway with engine temps just under 200 degrees my oil pressure stayed above 65 psi most of the trip.

Now that we are in slightly warmer Alabama temperatures (50 degrees) I took a test drive - oil pressure stayed in the high fifties.

I am running Rotella T 15w40 motor oil.

I am wondering if oil pressures that high are normal in that cold of weather. 

I can imagine all that oil in the oil pan never gets too warm. Wish I had thought to take a temperature reading of the oil pan with the temp gun but I didn't.

Kelly noticed a small puddle under the coach after coming back from a hike this morning.

Tracked it to the Dupree curb side dump valve. I can see a slow'ish drip coming from the bottom of the valve body. Of course, it's holding tank, so even a slow drip is not slow enough.

I found some old threads on replacing the gate and seal assembly. But I am concerned -- could that deformed seal cause a leak out the body? I'm thinking that the valve body must be cracked or something. I just dug up these threads and it's dark now, so I have not had a chance to take the valve apart to look closer. I am very much hoping that I do not have to replace the body - there's maybe 1/2" between the valve and the holding tank.

And of course it had to be the curb side dump. At least on the proper dump valve I could just use the gray water bypass to keep from leaking.

good morning from Galveston 

Our coach 385 is a 1995 model
Our first night in town i forgot to turn on AC compressor air was still holding around 70 Lbs
The next morning.....NOW

We have a new air leak. The AC compressor is running every 10/15 min
I have soaped everything (I hope) and found nothing.
The coach is setting level. If I turn off the compressor air drops to 50 lbs and stays there
For hours
Any ideas????

I've now had the string break on 3 of my 6 cellular shades. Thanks to Forest, et al for their notes on restringing:

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=1211

I thought I'd add my own notes here in case they help anyone.

For the first two, I've merely bought myself some time and am still using the original string. In all cases, the string broke near the bottom where it goes through the lower rail in the window. One thing I had noticed when dealing with a leaky window in the bedroom is that when Newell installed these, they brought the two ends of the string all the way to each other and connected them with a turnbuckle for tensioning. In reality, the blind only needs to have the string attached firmly to any point past the hole in the lower sill. This means that there's almost the entire width of the window worth of extra string on the original string installation. So as long as the string breaks near the bottom, you can take the blind apart just far enough to find the broken end of the string within the lower bar of the blind. Detach the other end from the bottom of the sill and pull the broken end until you have enough to reattach each end to the bottom of the sill separately. Your still on old string, but it will buy you some time. You can also then do the next trick below to restring with new string.

On my third blind, it broke far enough up that there was not enough string to make it down on both sides. But I was still able to get the broken end back through.

It occurred to me that I really did not want to have to pull the whole thing apart again and try to thread the new line through the cellular. So this morning, I basically sewed the broken end of the string to a new string. I melted the end of each line with a lighter to make sure that the thread did not just pull the braid apart. I doubled up my thread for strength and effectively butt-end sewed the two together. One pass through the original line and two passes through the new line. I tied a single half hitch to prevent it from coming apart and then pulled gently on the opposite string. I had the whole restring done in about 15 minutes. Didn't have to remove the blind from the window, even.

I am now planning to restring all of my blinds proactively this way - clearly they are all at the end of their lifespan and are just waiting until the least opportune time for me for them to fail.

Also note Forest's comments on rotation of the brass sleeve so that you don't have a followup failure:

http://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=1459