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1987 #132
Getting to know the coach over the past few week has been interesting. I am stumped with a couple items. 
There is an auxiliary air compressor on the left (drivers side) basement bay. It operates okay but I don't know what it's function is. 
Secondly I am able to manually pull the generator compartment out but it looks like there is an air activated cylinder to power it out but I have no idea were the switch would be. 
Thanks in advance for the assistance.

Does anybody know anything about the 20 KW Martin Generator that Newell has installed in several of their coaches?  This is a new name to me and have not heard of them before.

Thanks for any feedback or information.

hi gurus,

today i went out to the newell to put some things in the rear bathroom closet and the airdoor was shut and wouldnt open.  i had been having a number of friends go in the coach to look around and one of them switched on the airdoor bathroom door lock switch that is in the bath that prevents people from opening the door from the bedroom side.  

other than let all the air out of the air system (which is what i did) to allow me to manually open the door, is there a safety valve somewhere that allows you to open that door when the switch is on?

tom

One of my customers has some rebuilt 903's sitting on the self that they may want to sell.  If any Classic owners had an interest drop me a note.  Could be a less expensive alternative to swap to a newer model engine.

Hello everyone, my name is Rick and I bought coach #405 last fall, anyway my Detroit Diesel monitor on my dash is inoperative and I'm wondering how it works and what it would take to get it working again.

Thanks in advance, Rick

Does anyone know any history on the coach below? It only has one toilet mid ship with the sink and shower in the rear, interesting, also looks like now bed in front for company. Would it cost much to replace the two Chairs with a sofa bed?  I am new in the RV world but going to get started...
Thanks Dan

http://motorhomesoftexas.com/coachrv_images/newell_coach/2007--newell--45Custom--P1242

i installed the 2 vacuum pumps on the slide seals today.  took about an hour to do both of them.  the reason i put them on was to help the slide seal deflate and suck down so that there is less chance of the slide seal catching and rolling out of its mounting groove. this gives you a little extra clearance between the slide and the seal as you put the slide in and out.

i bought the dorman vacuum pumps that are used on superduty ford diesel trucks.  in fact i have a f350 that uses the same pump.  paid like 40 apiece so so for them.  

the regulator for the bedroom drivers side slide is in the small compartment on the passenger side in front of the engine bay.   the regulator for the front drivers side salon slide is in the 3rd compartment behind the front wheel on the driver side in the compartment where i have one of my basement air cons.  

the 2 pins that are inside the receptacle on the vacuum pumps are round.  so i used flat insulated spade connectors and pinched them with pliers to make them a snug fit on the round pins.  i crimped wires in the spade connectors that were attached to some used weatherpack 2 pin plugs i had laying around.  

the empty port on the solenoid is where the slide seal air escapes (exhaust port), so that is where i connected the hose that goes to the vacuum pump.  i used 7/64's vacuum hose and a 1/4" DOT compression brake line fitting and took the ferrell out and squeezed the compression nut over the vacuum hose and then pushed the hose on the sleeve that is in the fitting, then slid the nut down and tightened it.  not the way they are supposed to be used, but it worked and was snug.  i saw on richards that they used DOT stiff brake hose and then glued it to the vacuum pump, but i did it with vacuum hose and it was more flexible.  

since the motor is DC you have to make sure you have the polarity right on the vacuum pump.  i used the blue inline splice connectors to put the weatherpack plug on.    i taped the wires up to the pump to make sure they didnt vibrate off.

the solenoid must have multiple ports inside as it keeps constant pressure in the slide seal when not energized.  when you turn the key on the slide controller to release the air from the seal, it shuts off the air supply in the valve and exhausts the air from the seal out the exhaust port, which is now hooked up to the vacuum pump.  since i spliced the vacuum pump onto the wires for the solenoid, when the key is turned on, the valve opens and the vacuum pump starts up sucking the air out of the slide seals.  the pump has a pressure switch in it that turns it off when it reaches a certain level of vacuum.  that took about 60 seconds after the light on the hwh slide control panel went off. 

i mounted the pumps where they were out of the way and zip tied the wires up.  

it works great.   

tom

Are there enough Newell owners out there in the Michigan/Indiana/Ohio/Illinois/Wisconsin and surrounding areas to put together a Newell gathering/rally?  I'd be happy to take the reigns and make it happen if there's enough interest.

My green travel light has stopped illuminating.  I. Verified I am in travel mode by doing the washer sticking  to the 4 travel solenoids on six packs.

Leveling system works

I wonder if the light is kaput?

Tom

It was my turn to do this. The old radiator had severly corroded fins, and I was starting to notice the engine temps climb. It was running 196 to 205 which is OK but higher than I remembered. 
   

I sourced the radiator and CAC from Atlas in Corpus Christie. I won't bore you with the tight confined work of getting in and out but I did really learn some things on my first go round that may help someone in the future. 

Where is the radiator tag? Go to the outside door for the radiator, there is an aluminum trim piece riveted at the left side of the radiator. That trim piece has to be removed to see the tag. 

The best thing I did, on day two of the removal by the way, was construct a four foot long two foot wide table and exacly the same height as the engine bay floor. Having that table really gives you somewhere to stand or lay while you shimmy into the bay. 
   

If you remove the bolt in the center of the fan, you can gently tap the fan off the fan motor. It is a taper fit, not a threaded fit. You can't unthread it. Trust me on this one. 

The bolts holding the bottom fan shroud to the radiator frame were corroded. Some I could get enough hold on to break the head but two were being ugly. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to gind away the nut from inside the shroud. 

Similar thing for the bolts that penetrate the floor holding the fan motor support.  I could get an angle grinder in there to cut the bolts off. 

Take the bottom shroud off first. And install it last. 

I talked to several folks who had done this and they told me the rad/cac comes out bolted together. All I can say is that was NEVER going to happen on my coach without a big cutting torch. So I took them out separately. CAC first, and then slid the radiator out on the aforementioned table. 

So obviously it had to go back in in two pieces. CAC first and slide the radiator under it. That's when I discovered that there was not only a gap between the two, but an unevern gap at that. Not wanting to stress the CAC and make it hold the weight of the radiator, I used the unused 1/4-20 holes in the bottom of the radiator frame for jacking screws. By using the screws I was able to lift the radiator the 1/8 inch or so at one end to perfectly fit to the CAC. 

Don't even thing about this with one of those radiator hose removal tools. They look like a long pick but the end is hooked so you can get it under the hose and break it loose from the connection. The tool and slightly soapy water also help when putting the hoses back on. 

Per Tom's suggestion, I used new silicone hose and new constant tension radiator clamps on the reinstall. 

Do replace the flex hose on the exhaust while you're in there. You will never have easier access. I would say mine needed it. 
   

By lifting one end of the radiator at a time onto the table, I made this a one man job. The table is the key. 

A forty mile test drive on a 90 degree day showed the temp to go to 196 when the tstats open and quickly drop to 192 so I definitely can see an improvement.