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What an ordeal !!! The a/c replacement was by far the worst experience with the least capable authorized service center I have ever had. In the end. I actually got the a/c running properly and the installers damage to my roof and the new unit is something I will complain to Dometic about. Alan of Alans RV is a nice guy who sends out his 40 year old brain dead son to do the work now and the story here is too long and to unbelievable to tell, except I fixed it...

I have noticed I have a couple of screws that are stripped that hold the 3 inch aluminum trim on my coach's exterior and I am wondering what I can use to get a new screw to grab hold in the old hole? Is there a product I can inject in the old hole and let set and then simply put a new screw in that will take care of this problem?

Some of you have been extremely helpful with information about specific Newells that I'm looking at.
One of them (at Trawick in Fort Worth) has a ZF tranny.
My present coach and the one before both had Allison trannies and I know nothing about the ZF. What is it like to drive?
So, your input is hoped for!
Also, I've heard some negative stuff about the Caterpillar engine in some Newells. Your thoughts on that?
...and finally, what do people do without towel racks in coaches with air-operated doors? I don't see towel racks in the rear bath. I hate to just hang them on the shower wall...looks tacky.
This is the most helpful coach site on the Internet. You guys are the best!
Tom Gauger
'01 Monaco Exec 43DS, 515 Cummins, Allison
'10 Chevy Colorado toad

Gang,

I already posted about my transfer switch going bad due to thunder storm. (I think that may be it...but not sure). Anyway, since I am a belts & suspenders kinda guy, I also had a cord-based surge guard to protect the transfer switch. (Surge Guard model 34750)

I got excited and ordered a new surge guard, but in retrospect maybe it wasn't the surge guards fault. Maybe the transfer switch just had some other fault.

The old one is a little rugged. The LEDs are not bright and there is some piece of plastic that rattles around the inside. But if you plug it in, it will wait about a minute and then send power to the coach. (Not sure if it still functions as a surge protector...but then again, I am not sure that it ever functioned properly) But it makes me feel better having it.

Anyway, now I have an old Surge Guard that is not needed. First person to claim dibs gets it.

Cheers,
bill

Sorry to trouble you on this wonderful 4th of July.

Can any of you tell me the brand on the wall plate for the motorized over the air lift for the antenna?

Here is what I am trying to do, and the issue I have. I want to use that lift to mount a dipole antenna for the Wifi repeater. However, the coach has been retrofitted with a different antenna which does not raise or lower.

The mechanism and wiring is still in place, however the control box is MIA. I am hoping to find a schematic or better yet replacement control box.

Any ideas?

a neighbor of mine is just finishing building his high end bunny barn. forest and i helped to put the roof trusses up and sidewalls at the barn raising a while back. now it is insulated, metal roof, drywalled and i spent the last two mornings helping him paint the inside. looks nicer than most new homes. we did an epoxy on the inside today after primering yesterday.

he has a window swamp cooler in it and vents the air out through the duct you see on the outside over to his chicken coup.

they are going to raise exotic rabbits mostly for the fur, but for meat as well. (i aint gonna eat them)

he is going to get two 125 watt solar panels, a 3000 watt inverter, 2 6v golf cart batteries and a charge controller. he is having a hard time sizing the system. there will only be lights that are only rarely used and the 1/2 swamp cooler. draws about 6amps.

but....the swamp cooler will be running 23x7 in the summer. like now.

so...for you solar experts, any advice on the sizing of the panels and how many golf cart batteries he will need?

oh yea, thats my golf cart with the skull on the front and dog in the seat.

thanks

tom

What a week! Will definitely have some great stories for entertainment at next rally! As we were heading to UT on Wednesday morning heading out of NM on US 180 (very steep grades) the temp started to rise as it normally does, I started dropping gears as I normally do. Temp continued to rise. At +/-225 I pulled as far to the right as possible, turned off key as I glanced down at temp pegging past 250. A glance in rear view mirror saw greyish to dark grey smoke billowing at rear of coach. Set brakes & ran to get fire extinguishers & check engine compartment. Good news no fire! It appeared pluse or minus 2 qts coolant had escaped the over flow & ran down highway. After allowing things to cool down, a touch of the starter indicated the engine was locked. I opened radiator cap & added 2 gal of coolant. Oil level in crankcase rose significantly. No cell service. Had to unhook tow car & drive to top of hill, bars of service, but no call out. Looked at gas gauge on tow car, very low on fuel. Had to drive back down to Reserve for gas & was able to call out heavy haul wrecker from Silver City. Notified the Catron County Sheriff's Dept of my plight & advised a wrecker was on the way. For most of the day they had 2-5 officers directing traffic around our coach until wrecker arrived. ( Not one asked for DL, registration or proof of insurance) Follwed tow truck back to Silver City (VERY slow due due grades & curves) then went home to Deming. Yesterday we finished towing to Stewart Stevenson Detroit Diesel in El Paso, TX. (+/-3K on tow bill I think). Perhaps luck is changing, a bay had opened just before we arrived & they got the coach inside right away to start on it. Hopefully I got it shut down before really major damage was done. Will know more on Monday as they get into the diagnostics & repairs. Hoping for just blown head gasket. Cracked head may be 3-4 weeks for parts. Re-man engine 4-6 weeks for parts. Will post more as info becomes available.

The first Newell with Valid electric slides in lieu of HWH hydraulic slides is for sale on RVTrader.com. $225,000, rear closet.

This is more or less a copy of the info presented at the rally 14 to allow you to activate the jake from either the accelerator or the brake pedal with one switch.

My cruise and jake fight in rolling terrain. This wiring allows me to have the jakes anytime I apply the brakes, OR to have it activate as usual from accelerator off when I want to slow down on a long grade. In this setup the jake does not lock or latch when the brakes are applied. It releases when the brake pedal is released if the switch is in the brake pedal position. This is different from the commercially available Brakeswitch setup.

Concept
Jake will have three modes
Off
Activated by accelerator lift
Activated by brake application

How
Rewire the existing switch and use a relay triggered by the brake light

The Relay
Tap into brake light at kick panel terminal
Run that wire to drivers right side control panel
Label it please
Use simple normally open, single pole relay
Wire trigger to terminal 85
Run ground wire to terminal 86

The switch
Use double pole double throw switch
Cole Hersee part no 59024-15
Ryder truck parts HERE
You will need two terminal splitters Splitter

How to wire the switch
On the existing switch which is double pole single throw, purple with yellow stripe on one side, brown on other side
We are going to trick the purple side
Easier if you also drop the high low switch out of the console
Put purple wire on center terminal
Put brown wire on other center terminal
Install terminal adapters on two rear terminals
Match brown and purple yellow in terminate on switch
Fab short jumper wire and jump from rear to front terminal on brown wire side
Fab two jumper wires, install relay between front and rear terminal on purple side
Curse while you reinstall switches through holes in panel

Schematic

Using it
Center position Jake OFF
Front position Jake activated as normal by accelerator off
Rear position Jake activated by brake application, Jakes release when brake is released

Based on VMSpc readings:

Ambient Temp: 80 degrees (from internet weather data)
Speed: 66 mph
Tach: 1775 rpm
Water Temp: 183 degrees (range high 187 low 177)
Transmission Temp: 175 degrees (140 or less for 1st 90 minutes)
Turbo Boost: 7 psi (range 0 - 19 psi based on hills and acceleration)
Oil Pressure: 58 psi
Fuel Mileage: 6.6 mpg (10 minute avg in relatively level terrain)
Fuel Mileage: 6.1 mpg (240 mile trip average)